Doing some homework

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by DeannaLee, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Now that it is the frozen season in New England I am planning out my winter maintenance. Between having the brake system flushed/bleed, the valves adjusted and a new thermostat put I was quoted a pretty steep shop fee I thought, near $700. Does this sound right or am I just a cheap skate? Thanks for any insights.
     
  2. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    can you not do any of that?
     
  3. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    echoing what matt said, if you can't do any of it, then the price is right. The valve job is the only part I would not attempt without suppervision.... but the bleeding and new thermo I would do myself.

    good luck


    CR
     
  4. derstuka

    derstuka Lord of the Wankers Staff Member

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    Sounds about right.....well, not "right" as in good or appropriate, but at 80-90 bucks an hour it adds up....and the thermo itself takes a couple of hours just removing and reinstalling it all. Then the linked brakes take a lot longer to flush and bleed than non-linked. Just a valve adjust can run 250-400 bucks.
     
  5. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    thank you :vader:
     
  6. drewl

    drewl Insider

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    To get to the thermo takes removing the tank, airbox, and throttle bodies. The linked brakes take some time too. To do all you mentioned I would not be surprised at that number.
     
  7. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    My perspective as a full time tech for a quarter century? The price seems about right for this day and age.

    If the money is the problem...consider blowing off the valve adjustment. It's highly overrated, especially with the type of valve train on your bike. I RARELY end up actually changing any shims, and when I do...it's usually only out of spec so little it could be left alone indefinitely. Inspection on your bike is due every 16K according to Honda. If the bike is running well, especially starting OK when hot, I wouldn't feel uncomfortable to tell you 32K to 50K is more realisitic. If it makes you feel any better, my ST has 58K and I haven't checked them yet (probably should get around to it one of these days).

    I was wondering what makes you think you need a thermostat? Over the course of my career I can count the number of faulty ones I've come across on one hand and can think of no maintainance reason to mess with it. I see far more problems with fan switches and leaks.

    Brake fluid and coolant ARE too often neglected... so I would say replace those every three years as Honda recommends.
     
  8. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    My thanks to all who replied, let me playa little catch up here.

    I can do some of the items and after reading the shop manual I will be doing just that. I consider my self to be fairly handy with a wrench but when it comes to my bike I get a little edgy on what I start tinkering with.

    In regards to flushing the brakes is a mighty vac a good tool to get for bleeding and flushing?

    As for the thermo, I was coming home from my last trip of the season last year and notice some abnormally high engine temps from what I was used to seeing. After considering the ambient temp outside that fact that I was running at highway speeds for some time and it was still hovering around 212 I thought the thermo was going.

    I did drain and flush the cooling system and check the water pump for leakage but nothing looked out of the ordinary.

    Thoughts from your experience.
     
  9. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I will not recommend or disreccomend getting a vacuum pump but I will say that if you do decide to get one, go to harbor freight and get their generic model if you want to save a few bucks. I think I paid around $20 for it which was a little cheaper than mi-t-vac. It makes the job a bit faster but, is it necessary, probably not.
     
  10. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    You don't need a mity vac for flushing your hydraulic fluids. It could be useful if you're starting with a dry system or if you get air trapped in a stubborn place. You really want to avoid that anyway. Just make sure the master cylinder you're working with is level, and don't allow the brake fluid level to drop to the point of the holes in the bottem. Use a clear plastic hose that fits snug on the bleeders and run it to a throw away container. Use levers and pedals to pump the fluid through until your hose is showing clean stuff coming out the bleeder end. Follow the sequence in the manual. The clutch is the trickiest to bleed 'cause the master cylinder is smaller and you have to fill it more often. Take your time...have some cleaner and rags around. Post more questions if you have 'em.

    As to your thermo... Based on your description as posted I'm not sure it's clear there is a problem. 212F isn't exactly out of bounds. If you had been riding all day...well...sometimes bikes can get heat soaked in a way that a commute or an hour or two won't do. Sometimes wind conditions seem to make a difference, over even cooler ambient temperatures. Unless there's more to the story, if it were me...I'd double check the coolant level, make sure the cooling fan was coming on at consistent temperature...and do some more riding to check it out further.
     
  11. matt1986vf500f

    matt1986vf500f New Member

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    As to your thermo... Based on your description as posted I'm not sure it's clear there is a problem. 212F isn't exactly out of bounds. If you had been riding all day...well...sometimes bikes can get heat soaked in a way that a commute or an hour or two won't do. Sometimes wind conditions seem to make a difference, over even cooler ambient temperatures. Unless there's more to the story, if it were me...I'd double check the coolant level, make sure the cooling fan was coming on at consistent temperature...and do some more riding to check it out further.[/QUOTE]

    also so double check your coolant, if it dirty or old that could be a porblem as well
     
  12. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Some good stuff here Dizzy. It is comforting to hear advise from someone who is other than a back yard mechanic. Not intending to throw any jabs at anyone else here mind you. Nothing beats technical expertise along with experience.

    Just so you all know, I have recieved training in and am qualified in nothing to do with motorcycle repairs. Following any advise I may give you may be cause for total anguish on your part. Neither I nor my successors and heirs accept any responsibility for any unfortunate happenings that may come your way as a result of following my advise.

    Is there any part of that you do not understand?
     
  13. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    so what are you saying Randy ? that you just take your bike in to have the work done by a qualified person?
     
  14. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    You bet. I have done one oil change since I bought it and that was the last one. I have over 61,000 km on it. Dealer did the rest. My my Scottishness is starting to creep in there. I am starting to edumacate myslef now
     
  15. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    Thanks for the kind comments, Randy...I can relate. The only thing I do to my "cagers" is put air in the tires...anything else and I visit the car techs. The only thing I do on my bicycles is air, lube and swap tires. Seems anything beyond that confuses the 'ell out of me and it's just better to let the "pedal" guys take care of it. After all, they gotta eat too.
     
  16. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I did ride to work yesterday though Cold as hell. Ran into ice fog and temps well below freezing but I changed the air in my tires before hand and put in some good quality winter air. I am also runiing All Season Lights that the dealer sold me. They removed my reverse as well saying I didn't need it. Gave me a sixth forward gear instead. This only cost $400.00. I think I took advantage of them on that one but I am going to keep that to myself.
     
  17. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    Lucky you...It's been so flippin' cold here riding is just totally out of the question. Last week I think the temperature climbed above 0F briefly on Tuesday. Thursday morning we set a record for here of -33F. There's so much snow and ice built up on the roads just driving a car is a lesson in traction. Things are looking up though...mid twenties today!!
     
  18. DeannaLee

    DeannaLee New Member

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    Dizzy,
    Thanks for the input, I think that I will be taking on the majority of my to do list on my own with the exception of valves.

    As for the thermo, once I noticed the problem I did a complete flush and coolant change and ensured that the levels were correct. I will probably let it ride and see if there are any more issues once summer hits. I did think about a loose sensor connection and that seemed good a well. Is there another temp sensor other than the one on the left side radiator for the fan switch? I replaced that switch last year so I know it is in good working order and the fan comes on.

    Being as time is on my side now the time consuming projects are not an issue and should be able to knock them out well before riding season comes back.

    Is there anything else I am missing to check on the temp side if the house?

    Thanks again all, I really appreciate the help.
     
  19. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    Well...let's see...there's the fan switch on the rad you already replaced. There's an ECT sensor on the front cylinder head (kinda down by the thermostat) that feeds a signal to the ECM and the digital temperature gauge. That's about it really.

    There's always a myriad of possibilities but it sounds like you're being thorough. If you're pretty sure something is going on...a thermostat sounds like a common sense next step.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2009
  20. jtb

    jtb New Member

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    So. Randy, when can I bring you my bike?:smile::rolleyes:
     
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