DIY: Bleeding Linked Brakes w/ABS (The Ultimate Guide)

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by jay-d, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. BigRocketMan

    BigRocketMan New Member

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    All bled and test ride in my bldgs car park all is good. Raining now so can’t do a full test.
    Using rear brake only stopped the bike well now the front callipers are working properly.
    R brake not seizing.
    Many thanks for the assistance
     
  2. BigRocketMan

    BigRocketMan New Member

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    I'm so please everyone is sharing in my Joy (I like Honda's again) LOL
     
  3. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    I see nozzle alluded to using a vacuum system but that was back in 2012. Does anyone know if a vacuum bleeder would pull fluid all the way from the Front reservoir, through the front caliper MC, through proportioning valve and all the way to rear caliper or would I need to use some pedals/actuate master cylinders to open any valves? I'm wondering if I can more easily flush the system since it's probably got original fluid in it from '02...
     
  4. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Bleed my brakes today using a regular tube and catch can, no vacuum needed, and it needed it badly... Here's what I pulled out.
    upload_2021-3-25_21-45-12.png

    Had some sediment at the bottom of my reservoirs
    upload_2021-3-25_21-44-46.png

    and after wiping it out.
    upload_2021-3-25_21-49-7.png
    And now my clutch is 10X easier to pull. Scared me at first thinking I had a bubble in the line but bike acts normal clutch is just super easy to pull. No sore forearm this spring!
     
  5. Socratease

    Socratease New Member

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    I just finished bleeding mine single-handed. For what it's worth, I removed the FL caliper and wrapped elastic shock cord around the SMC piston to provide enough pressure to return it to compressed state when the bleed valve was opened. Then I tied a loop in a length of nylon webbing and used it to suspend a 20lb weight from the rear brake lever, with the extra thrown over the top of the bike. With the extra I could lift up the weight and let it down a few times from the left side of the bike to pressurize the line, then crack the LPCV to bleed the line while the shock cord re-compressed the SMC. It seemed to work, though things were pretty mushy in step 3C, and I went through about 4 reservoir's full of fluid before bubbles stopped coming out, I think because there is so much brake line on that side of the system that there's a lot of compressible air you're trying to work against.
     
  6. Socratease

    Socratease New Member

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    That won't work, there's no hydraulic route from the LMC to the rear caliper.

    I tried using vacuum and it worked well for draining the old fluid from the system and bleeding the LMC, but didn't seem to work very well for bleeding the rear, not sure exactly why.
     
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