Could use some staor advice ASAP, before I order OEM

I seem to have fried my stator yesterday and the dealership has informed me that $525 will be required for both the part and labor. That amount sounded high to me, so I was wondering if anyone knows of any options that I might have in terms of getting a non-OEM replacement. Is there a cheaper but equal quality part out there (not that the OEM part was of high quality, 15k miles) or maybe a more quality part in the same price range as OEM?
Perhaps a place to get OEM for less then what the dealership would charge?

I did do some quick searching but couldn't find anything specific and I find myself in a time crunch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Buy OEM. http://servicehondapsn.com/fiche_se...y=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2006&fveh=12166

Part #31120-MCW-D03. $182 + shipping.

I wasted money buying 2 aftermarket. In trying to save $30, I burned over $200 and lost half a riding season. Buy OEM for electrical, and call it a day.

 

^^^ I definately understand what you're saying about electrical and OEM. I just find myself some what pissed that the original lasted a mere 15k miles.

 

You can get a stator for less than $150 from www.wiremybike.com and installing it should be easy if you have a service manual and any bit of mechanical aptitude. If you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself just ask some of our fellow forum members here to help and I'm sure they'll be happy to assist you in exchange for a 6 pack and/or lunch.

Rollin

 

One more thing....There is a good write-up on how to replace the stator on that other VFR site. I've included a link below.

Replace Stator And Flywheel - How To With Pics - VFR Discussion

Rollin

 

^^^ Unfortunately I don't own many of the required tools. Although reading the article you provided makes me think that I could go purchase them, do the work myself and still come under the $525 that the dealership would like to collect. Thanks for the info. I'll be doing some pricing on related tools tomorrow morning.

 

The stator sold by Wire My Bike is from Rick's Motorsport Electrics. I have no doubt it will last the rest of the life of the bike. There's an aftermarket brand known to CX guys that goes bad because of inferior insulation but I forget the name.

-Jake

 

If you aren't planning on replacing the flywheel you only need a basic tool set and a good torque wrench. I'm sure there are plenty of members willing to help you out or loan you their tools if you simply ask. If I lived near Denver I would have been glad to help and all it would have cost you is 2 shots of Jaegermeister.




Rollin

 

What Tink says is funny, albeit true. My temperment has thus far prevented me from caring about gaining any mechanical know how, ironically enough it's one of the reasons a bought a VFR. However, one of these days I'm going to need to sit down and start figuring this shit out. The dealership charges $85 per, so I'm guesing that they have 3.5 hours on the board for this one.

Here's the thing that has really got my panties twisted-The dealership is saying that if I don't replace my R/R now (which is working fine) that I'm taking a huge risk. This is because the R/R's are garbage and if it decides to go anytime soon, it has a high probability of taking the new stator and battery with it.

What are your opinions on replacing the flywheel at 15k miles (odo actually reads 16,500 but I believe I'm reading 10% high), should I just have them do it since they're going to be right there anyway? Same goes for the R/R.

 

You don't need to replace your flywheel. In fact, I've never heard of anyone replacing their flywheel to fix an electrical issue. The reality is, it's really freaking hard to muck up a flywheel to the point it needs replaced. As for the stator and regulator, that's up to you. If the R/R is original I'd go ahead and replace it but I'd still stay away from OEM parts. Talk to the shop and see if they'll let you supply the stator and R/R and just charge you labor (actual labor not book time). Shops generally don't like to do this because they make a hefty profit off of parts. I haven't had to tear into that part of my VFR but on my VF I could have the job done in less than an hour.

-Jake

 

^^^ I just got off the phone with the dealership and they of course will not install a non-OEM stator. It would cost me a mimimum of $150 to have the bike towed back to my garage, on top of the $290 it cost to have it towed to the dealership, so all things considered, the best financial option is to just have the dealership complete the work using OEM.

At this point I could not be more infuriated. The fact that the manufactorer knows that there have been ongoing issues with all things electrical on this bike, and refuses to acknowlege or do anything about it, has got me absolutely seething. Then to have the audacity to force my hand (knowing I'm in a bind) by replacing one shit part with the same shit part leaves me speechless.

Tink, I think that I will replace the R/R. However, I will be doing it with some other, heavier duty part, and on my own time. So I may just take you up on your offer some time in the future. Lunch and libation to be provided, of course.

 

$290 for a tow? That's ridiculous. How far is home? Unplug the stator, charge the battery, and ride that sucker home. Someone else may need to chime in but I believe you should be able to do this provided you don't need to go too far. FWIW, this is why I do my own work.

-Jake

 

I was in the middle of the mountains when it failed. $80 hook-up fee and $5 per mile after that. I had it towed to the closest dealership which isn't too far from the house, but far enough to make it not worth another tow. The dealership is charging the battery up as we speak but it looks like it may be totaly dead. I guess they figure a little salt in the wound is good for the soul.