Cooling system

At least we are in the same state - too bad we're still about 500 miles apart . . .

 

According to my Clymer Book, you are correct. 1-4-3-2.
1=L-R
2=L-F
3=R-R
4=R-F
This info is from Clymer #M349 700-1000cc Interceptor 1983-1985

 

Thanks - turns out the PO may have used the cams from an '82-'83 V45 Sabre so when installing them the way the book shows, the #2 piston kept hitting the exhaust valves.

The '82-'83 Magna\Sabre cams came from the factory mis-marked. You have to manually mark them 6 teeth from the stock marks - exactly where factory-looking punch marks are located. Installed them according to the punch marks and everything turns and timing looks good.

 

I'm glad you figured it out. I have the clymer book on your bike. If you need any info from it, just let me know. It's a good thing you checked that before putting it all back together. Would it work if I marked the cams when I take them out and not turn the motor while they're out? I could mark the cam gears and the chain, and put them back like they came out. It would be nice if that would work. Just a thought. I guess I'm trying to do the job in my head before tearing it down. I'm rebuilding a wrecked 2003 Honda ACE. When it's done, The Sabre is next.

 

I have the Clymer too. But I couldn't find the firing order and there is no mention of the punch marks. I confirmed the cams and settings with Dave Dodge and everything looks good to go.

As far as marking the cams and chains - theoretically, it will work. Practically, it is difficult. I've even heard of people zip tying the chain and sprocket together. Doesn't work real well if you're trying to remove the head. Just replacing the tensioner assembly it would probably work.

As long as you understand the 4 stroke motor and know the firing order, you should be good to go.

To keep track of the TDC and BDC of each cylinder, I made up a quick graph of what stroke each cylinder was on and where the piston would be at the end of the stroke (BDC or TDC). So if the #2 cylinder was at the end of the Intake stroke it would be at BDC - I could then look across my graph and see which stroke each cylinder just finished and where the piston should be.

I used a screwdriver resting on the piston I was keeping track of and just loosened the spark plugs in the other two cylinders. While rotating the engine, I could then watch the piston travel of the cylinder in question and could determine the compression stroke of the other cylinders by listening for the "whoosh" sound of the air escaping.

Once the cams were in, I installed the rocker covers (did not torque them) and repeated the process, verifying the compression stroke on the open head by sticking a finger over the spark plug hole.

On the powerstroke, the Magna/Sabre front head's cam lobes should be up and toward each other. The back head cam lobes should be facing away from each other.

The Ceptor's lobes are exactly opposite.

 

I'm assuming I have a blown head gasket. I get coolant in the oil, and have stopped running it. I drained the radiator and changed the oil 3 times, running it about 30 seconds between to prevent damage until I get my ACE back on the road. I've heard there is a slight chance the seal in the water pump is leaking water into the oil, but that is not as likely as the head gasket. It sounds like you have spent a lot of time and thought into doing this job. I work on large diesel engines (semi trucks) so, these bikes are small and tedious for a big rig mechanic. I'm learning a lot from your experience. Thanks!

 

Best way to diagnose this is a compression test - followed by a leak-down test. In a previous post on this thread, I recommended a Harbor Freight compression tester.

 

Compression good on all cyl's. Gasket must be blown between coolant and oil return. If it weren't for the coolant in the oil, you'd never know anything was wrong with it. It runs just fine.