CDI failure?

Not quite, although I can almost see norad from where I'm sitting... I just used a dremel with a cutoff wheel...

When you remove the CDI the black box is almost all one piece, the side where the wires come out of is a little removable cap. Once you remove the cap (just a small flat head screwdriver will do) you can see that the circuit board is on little plastic tracks on both sides of the box, like it's supposed to slide out. I however found that It wouldn't budge, so I took my dremel and cut the bottom off a few millimeters from each edge, I just looked in the end to make sure I wasn't cutting too deep or too close to the edge to cut the slots for the PCB. I cut all three sides then had to cut a little additional notch at the bottom to pry the PCB out with a screwdriver. I just taped the bottom back on when I was done as a temporary solution since I'm getting a spare anyways, but when I pull it out I'll probably mostly seal it up with some black RTV silicone. The box already has a couple of holes in it so I figured it doesn't have to be water tight, but it's nice for some piece of mind, especially since I don't get to garage the bike.

I'll take some pictures when I have the box back out of the bike

 

Where is the cdi box located

 

I think you will find it under the tail light

 

Funny you reply is your name really norm? ? If so mine is as well

 

Been my name for as long as I can remember :glee:

 

Hi.
Got the usual fried yellow wires on my 87 750. Fixed the wires but tachometer is showing way to much rpms now, and the bike feels a little less powerful..
What should I expect? A fried CDI or a bad coil?
I know the tach gets it signal from the coil...