Carb problems with my 2nd Gen?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by slowbird, Sep 9, 2010.

  1. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    Hmmm....that website shows the same thing that the Honda Dealership shows.
    http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
    No. 1 on the list is the gasket set. Almost $40 plus shipping. For just one carb. I'd need 4.
    With the discount at my local Honda dealership it would come out to be the same.

    Might be better if I just get a carb kit. Atleast that way it'll come with the o-rings/gaskets plus new jets, pilot, float valve etc. ?????


    Thanks. :smile: Damn shame, indeed.

    3 turns?! So half a turn out?

    With the black smoke issues near start up shouldn't I try maybe 1/4-1/2 turn in?

    (In is leaner, out is richer....no?)
     


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  2. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Regarding the pilot screws - AKA idle mixture screws - these are fuel screws, meaning in (clockwise) is less fuel and out (counter-clockwise) is more fuel.

    Turn all the screws (from being gently seated) two turns out. Then turn out until you first start to hear the rpm increase. No need for the idle drop procedure, IMO.
     


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  3. 02 VFR Rider

    02 VFR Rider New Member

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    if the black smoke goes away once the bike is warmed up and choke off, I would not worry much about that now.
    It has been a long time as far as working on carbs but I would say try 1/2 turn out - see what happens. you could also try 1/4 turn is as well and take it for a ride. ( again my old brain remembers it as out being more air ) but I can be wrong. My money is still on 1/2 turn out should clear the stumbling up a bit.
     


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  4. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    The pilot screws are fuel screws. In = less fuel, out = more fuel.
     


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  5. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    Maybe I should test the coils?

    Could be there's an ignition issue?
     


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  6. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    So I should try turning the screws in a little (1/4??) or out?
     


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  7. 02 VFR Rider

    02 VFR Rider New Member

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    I would try out first. :doh: lets see if my 50/50 track record still stands.

    pop in the chat box sometime slow and say hi.
     


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  8. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Turn all the screws out (from being gently seated) 2 turns. Then slowly turn out until you first start to hear an rpm increase. Start with this and see how the engine responds.

    Soap box side note - I really recommend purchasing (or making - per MichaelE's thread) a manometer to properly synchronize your carbs along with dialing in the pilot screws per note above.

    A manometer is a must have tool if you are going to work on carburetors.
     


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  9. 02 VFR Rider

    02 VFR Rider New Member

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  10. Hawkrider

    Hawkrider New Member

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    Honestly, using that manometer would be a huge pain in the ass on this bike. I used the Motion Pro 4-cylinder version a couple of weeks ago. When I adjusted them I had to adjust each carb (3 since one is the base carb) no less than 4 times each. Each adjustment on one carb tends to change the others, so it's a bit of trial and error. Having to swap tubing over and over and over would become old very quick. Just go buy a proper carb sync tool and be done with it. You'll also need a 90° screwdriver specifically designed for carbs in order to get to the screws. They are buried and you cannot get to them with any other tool.
     


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  11. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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  12. woody77

    woody77 New Member

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    You don't *NEED* a right-angle screwdriver, if you're in a pinch, unless your hands are hams and fingers are sausages. Just wear good mechanics gloves so you don't get burned. I stuck a screw-driver tip into a 1/4" deep-well socket as a stubby screw-driver with a narrow handle.

    Next time, I'm buying the screwdriver... :)
     


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  13. Michael E

    Michael E New Member

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    First page of this thread, post 23. Don't blame you for forgetting. Feels like weeks ago!

     


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  14. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I have not tried this but I would take a bowl to the hardware store. The right circumference of a standard o ring could be made to fit in my opinion. Would just need to use a dab of sealer or grease to hold it in place for assembly.
     


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  15. Lazy in AZ

    Lazy in AZ New Member

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    Float bowl gaskets can be found at your local hydraulic shop for about $2 each.

    #041 gasket works on an 86 VFR750

    Other gaskets can be found there as well, just bring in your old one an be prepared to wait a few minutes for them to find a match.
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Right on. I don't go to honda to buy wheel bearings either.
     


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  17. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    I don't know where this leak is originating from but it happens after I walk away from the bike, and it's definitely fuel.

    [​IMG]

    Bike smells of fuel. Ugh!

    I am starting to get into the habit of switching the Petcock to OFF and letting the bike run for a few seconds before shutting it off. That seems to help reduce the amount of fuel leakage.
     


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  18. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    You would have the answer you seek had you done as squirrel instructed earlier in the thread. Leaktest before installation.
     


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  19. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    it appears that it is that left rear carb.... also check fuel line...as that it runs right there as well
     


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  20. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Squirrel told you what to do earlier in the thread.
     


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