Brake Pad Replacement

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Wu-Viffer, Jul 15, 2008.

  1. Wu-Viffer

    Wu-Viffer New Member

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    Now I have a problem

    So, I just finished changing the brake pads and bleeding the brake lines. Everything went fine, didn't have to take the wheels off or anything. BUT, now the brakes are really tight, and it seems like they are always slightly 'on.' Is there something you have to reset somewhere when you put new brake pads on that are thicker than the old ones that came off? I thought there were some springs in there that automatically adjusted it to the appropriate tension, but that doesn't seem to be working properly. Any ideas? It doesn't seem like a good idea to keep riding with the brakes always slightly on.


    Thanks,
    Mel
     


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  2. arch4ngel

    arch4ngel New Member

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    How did you determine the brakes are dragging?
    When up on the center stand, does the rear rotate freely?

    If you pushed in the pistons, there should have been plenty room to install the new pads. Once installed you have to squeeze the brake levers a few times to get them back in place. Once there, they definitely should not drag

    Also, did you lube the slider pins?
     


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  3. Wu-Viffer

    Wu-Viffer New Member

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    Well, I had it up on the center stand, and the back wheel rotates, but defintely not freely, and the front wheel is even tighter. I took it out for a test drive, and I could feel that I had to work against the brakes and apply more throttle. I got the pads in alright by pushing the pistons all the way in, but it just feels like they're rubbing now (and it's because they are!). Is it possible to get the slider pins into the new pads without the pads being in the right spot? That's all I can come up with, but everything went together fine, and nothing is noticeably out of whack. I did not lube the slider pins, though, maybe I should try that next.

    Thanks,
    Mel
     


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  4. arch4ngel

    arch4ngel New Member

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    I would def lube those pins, as that can stop the pads from moving correctly.
    Also, I could be wrong here, but I think improper bleeding can cause that symptom as well.
    I know there is a specific order to bleeding, you followed the manual, right? Did you see this problem before you started bleeding?
    Lastly, it could be that your calipers need rebuilding due to a sticking piston. That would be the last place I check, personally.

    Hope this helps.
     


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  5. Joey_Dude

    Joey_Dude Member

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    When I replaced my brake pads (both front and back) they rubbed a little and that is normal. The pads do have to break in and it should take between 200-300 miles before they start getting back to normal.

    Try riding your bike for a week and see if the rubbing eventually goes away. If not, then you might have to take the calipers off and reset them. It's actually an easy procedure just a pain in the a$$ to take them off.
     


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  6. drewl

    drewl Insider

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    +1 on the pins. also check to pistons to see if they got gummed up from being extended all the time with the worn pads. clean them up, see if you can work them after that. Then check the fluid levels and maybe re-bleed. I had to rebuild the calipers on my 88 yami because the pistons got ALL crapped up and trashed the caliper seals.

    On another note, I have not changed the pads on my 2000. Still stock. They only have 11,000 miles on them. More going then stopping I guess.
     


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  7. Wu-Viffer

    Wu-Viffer New Member

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    So, I think the problem is fixed now. I did two things: I cleaned and relubed the slider pins, and I also forced a putty knife up in between the pad and rotor to push the calipers all the way in and take some fluid out of the lines. I was worried that with the new pads and the reservoir being so full that there wasn't enough room for the pads to retract. Unfortunately, I didn't do these two things in a step-wise fashion, so I'm not sure which one actually fixed the problem, but the problem seems to be fixed nonetheless. I am going to give it a week or two and see what happens. I noticed that there is a small lip on the right side rotor, and I'm wondering if that was left from the last pads and just needs to be worn some.

    Thanks for all the help, this site never disappoints.

    Mel
     


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  8. arch4ngel

    arch4ngel New Member

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    Glad to hear it worked.
    Don't forget to follow break in procedure for brakes :thumbsup:
     


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  9. Wu-Viffer

    Wu-Viffer New Member

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    I have been slowly working these new brakes in (as suggested), and I took a longish ride down the coast on Hwy 1 yesterday to test them out. Damn, I should have done this a lot earlier. Between the new pads and the new fluid, my braking power has increased dramatically. And I gotta say, I can't imagine doing the brake bleeding without speed bleeders. That made it SO easy.

    Thanks for everyone's help,
    Mel
     


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