Bent Rear Axle

Torque spec listed on my first picture is 190 ft/lbs. This is for a 3/4G bike. Don't know about the 6G.

 

If you put the bike on the center stand and held a straight edge next to various parts while turning the wheel, you should be able to determine what all is bent.
The bent pieces will move closer and further away from a straight edge steadied on the floor and the non bent parts will stay next to it.
Sorry if this sounds like Capt Obvious.

 

drewl,

we took the wheel off and that is what we hvae done so far. That is why I think it is that flange of the axle. I want to look into it a little more. I might try the same thing again, but in a more accurate way. Rig something up that is VERY stationary and try it again. appreciate the input.

PJ

 

It has to be broken down to find the problem, then fix it.


But it sounds like this bike has either been rear ended by a car/truck, or has been lowsided into something, that sheeit is pretty dang hard to tweak, even on a SSSA.

Possible also be a bearing race crushed in one spot from over torquing allowing a low spot on the rotation, but doubt that due to its not grinding & making noise.

there is alway's some good with bad, you will know your bike a lot better when your done fixing it .

Good luck & hope its simple/fixable, & cheap to repair, did I say HOPE !

 

PJC: I got this set from Harbor Freight. It is not Snap-on quality, but it is big and is good enough for my utilization. ONE socket from Sears or Napa - if they have the size you need - is about the same cost as this set near me...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5494

If you get it, find a torque wrench too, or you can just calculate how much weight you need where on the breaker bar to get the torque. I have a 4 ft. section of pipe that fits snug over the bar, and another 4 ft that over laps the first section of pipe so that lil'nozzle can generate torque on the Accord hub nutz.

With enough leverage, you can turn the earth.

 

Mello -

Thanks for pointing that out. I should have read the section on how to actually "read" the manual.

I've just been blessed with a good sense of how tight things should be (torque arm?). I generally only torque down fasteners where the spec is critical (putting on a head, lug nuts, etc.). Generally, "tight enough" is good enough for me.

As far as the Jesus nut on the SSSA, I'd make it as tight as I could, and then give 'er a few whacks with my mini-sledge to lock it down. 141 ft lbs is A LOT of torque. Most little Jap car engines don't even put that out.

As a note, my "Jesus nut" reference can be attributed to my dad from his days in Vietnam... he worked on UH-1 Huey Helicopters and there was ONE nut that held the main rotor blade on. It needed to be torqued to something like 275 ft/lbs... Lots of cursing generally ensued, and "Jesus!" was routinely uttered. The name stuck. I apply it to any nut that falls into that category. The SSSA nut is definitely one of those.

No offense intended to those who worship the Savior.

 

It was explained to me that it was called the Jesus Nut because if it wasn't torqued enough, you were going to meet Him.

 

when i worked at the stereo shop we referred the the clips that hold a window crank as "jesus clips" because if you weren't carefull and the clip went flying off we would say "Oh Jesus!" Some people had other choice words too.

 

141 FT lbs is tight, but in the scheme of things, not that tight. The lug nuts on a Semi's 22.5" wheel, is 550-650 ft lbs. Now, that's tight. Main bearings on a 454 big block Chevy is 110 ft lbs. Any good 1/2" drive torque wrench should do the job just fine.

 

Notice the torque specs in red at the bottom.

 

bringing it to the dealership on monday. talked to the mechanic today and he is thinking bearings but not sure since there is no vibrations and no noise. so we will see...

 

Dropped it off today at the dealership. The mechanic seems to think it is the axle flange also. I will know more tomorrow after they break everything down. He also mentioned that it might be something that Honda will cover. Possible defect from the factory. I hope so...cheaper for me!

 

mechanic just called me back and confirmed that the axle flange is bent. $230 to fix it and while the bike is there they are going to do 2 recalls that the bike had. one deals with the wiring harness and the other with the pcv valve. not sure what the last one is.
i appreciate everyone's replies... now to get it fixed so i can be back on the rode.

 

For only $230.00 must be a pretty simple fix. Good Luck.