Attempted VF1000F2 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Waylander, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Hi all,
    Just bought this machine, not owned a bike since an altercation with a van and my Triumph 900 Sprint, in 1998, which left me in plaster and traction for 4 months
    So not a rider for 22 years!

    [​IMG]

    This bike has not been serviced since 2003 and only done 3000 miles since 2004, been locked up in a shed since 2017,

    The rear tyre is dated 2005 so that’s a swap out sooner rather than later, I have started by trying to clean out the tank as the previous owner put some fresh fuel in and then sold it as spares and repairs, not running well

    The fuel tank contents
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Not really surprised it’s not running well

    More pictures to come


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    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
  2. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Cool, I honestly dont think I have ever seen one of those !
     
  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Welcome! Always liked that paint scheme. Good luck!
     
  4. lsc86

    lsc86 New Member

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    First one I've ever seen, the FII series never made it this side of the pond....couple recent VF500 rebuild threads going that I'd imagine have similar tasks completed to learn from for your 1000 project. She looks clean, definitely worth resurrecting!
     
  5. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Today has seen some delicate surgery, for some reason after removing the fuel gauge sender, I decided to check the resistance values, that turned out to be open open circuit!

    So after brushing the rust off with a brass brush, took the cover off to a ball of rust

    Had to dismantle the float arm and solder back on the coil contact slider, and clean all the rust off, I did take some pics of the finished now working sender
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After soldering the copper arm back on

    Set the resistance to be about 120k at empty and 20k at full, hope that’s ok, now a bit more derusting and avoid the coil resistor
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
  6. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    So today after being reminded about float valve filter baskets I decided to remove the carbs again

    Took out one of the float valves and found this
    [​IMG]

    Something hard but flexible sticking into the hole where the filter should go, could not move it at all, decided to separate one carb to get to the fuel in line, found this
    [​IMG]
    It appears that all the original feed pipes and O rings have been thrown away and it’s all connected now by brass T pieces and thick walled fuel hose, which is just forced into the fuel feed holes to make a seal

    Don’t think I can put this right as the link pipes are a small fortune

    Think that plastic part was shoved up a pipe to increase its OD to stop a leak

    What to do about is the big question


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  7. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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  8. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    They look great, but it gets expensive with the ridiculous USA to UK post charges the import duty,

    I will have a look as it needs fixing


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  9. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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  10. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Just had a look

    Post and duty from USA extra $40 not sure what the tax will be this side but quite possibly another 20-30 $


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  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Well... not many options really. Could try and source used tubes (which could likely be cracked and probably why your carbs were like that). Or try and source some carbs for parts, still no guarantee of good tubes.
     
  12. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Will have a chat with a friend of mine in Reno, might make it cheaper if he can buy them and then post over as a used part

    I will update as soon as I know,

    Next task is get the horrid glued on LED indicators off and refit the originals, I have never seen so much hot glue, pics to follow


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  13. jeremyr62

    jeremyr62 New Member

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    OK, the tank is a pity. If it had been stored full of fuel you wouldn't have those issues. There are plenty of guides for cleaning it out. The amount of debris looks bad but when iron converts to rust there is a big volume increase so the amount of metal lost is quite small (hopefully).
    I recommend this stuff to clean the tank. It is the same as Metal Rescue or Evaporust.
    https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Cata...esives/Shield-Technology/Restore-Rust-Remover

    It isn't cheap but it only removes the rust, it leaves the metal alone, unlike acids. I used t to clean a VF500 tank and it did a great job.
     
  14. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Thanks for that bit of info, I got most of the loose stuff off yesterday with a big bag of 10mm nuts, about 300, and gave it a dam good shaking, it’s a big lump to do that with and my shoulders are feeling it today

    I then rigged a vacuum cleaner to the level hole and sucked it all out including the nuts

    Seems to have done a fair job, just need to clean out the rest and convert the remaining to something else

    Thinking about Hydrate 80 rust converter


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  15. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    That suggestion got me thinking about a brilliant company I have used loads of times

    Gave them a call and this is what I have got for the tank now

    https://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c

    Does the same job, 1kg powder mixed with 20L of water should clean the tank completely with no damage to the steel or paint


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  16. jeremyr62

    jeremyr62 New Member

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    Looks like that could use chelating agents to remove the rust, same as the ones I mention above. If you are a cheapskate filling the tank with a solution of black treacle (molasses) mixed with water will do the same job. I was sceptical about this when I heard about it but I can confirm it works. It is just very slow and you can get mould growth too which pongs.
     
  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    If you wanna go cheap and pretty fast and not harm the paint, try Electrolytic Rust Removal. Done it many times, works great, and is easier than you think.
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    I did wonder about putting water in an already rusty tank, but I have looked at the electrolysis method and it’s right at the top of the list

    I thought it would be easy with a brother who’s got a masters in chemistry


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  19. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    I contacted vinscoot about pipes and he said that they will not fit my F2, I have given him what I think are the part numbers

    And he will let me know, on further investigation it’s just the main fuel feed plastic pipe that’s missing, the rest are there


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  20. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    The parts list from my go to store here in Canada is still showing availability for the fuel tubes for the 1986 VF1000R. Not sure if they are the same as the F2?

    Qty Part Number Description Price Total
    16027-MB6-671 JOINT SET, FUEL 35.54 35.54
    16047-KE7-003 JOINT SET, FUEL 54.24 54.24

    Not always a guarantee that they are still available but you might want to check your go to place for OEM Honda parts before giving up. Not sure that Honda parts will end up being that much cheaper than the good aftermarket suggested above by the time you buy orings on top of the tube costs.

    I'd be willing to get and mail them if that ends up as your best option.

    Keep at it. One way or another its worth resurrecting.
     
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