Any tips removing rusted 1998 vfr exhaust join nuts?

My exhaust is rusted but still functional,structurally sound.
I want to remove it and remove the rust and paint it with high 1200f grill paint.

I have never removed rusted or old exhaust before
Don't want to sheer off the bolts.I learned from reading on the net that hot engine will help and also penetrating oil.
I really don't want to sheer off the bolt and create bigger problem.
Any tips guys?
Thank you

 

Are the studs going into the engine lefty loosy? or opposite.

 

No the studs are righty tighty. They are 6mmx22mm and they cost about $3 each P/N90035-MW4-000. The nuts are closer to $5 a piece P/N 90304-HB3-771.

I don't think you will have a problem getting them off. The worst case scenario would be a stud backing out along with the nut or this.

 

Thanks for the part number.I looked but could not find it.
So studs are screwed in standard way that is to get them out lefty loosy and righty tighty.
thank you.

 

I found that a product called Aerokroil works best on bolts and nuts you dont want to brake. A warm part will help but too warm and it will just seize in the hole. take a steel wire brush and clean all the slake (the rust and other crap) off the exposed threads and then soak with Aerokroil, go get 2 beer, open one and drink, once gone soak the bolt/nuts again and drink second beer. once done then using a breaker bar (not an impact wrench or any other air or hydralic tool) turn the bolt/nut to release, add some more aerokroil after 1 or 2 turns to ensure proper lube on the threads as the heat generated by the friction will cause the bolt/nut to tighten on the part your removing it from. Plus it makes life easier if everything has enough lube.

The studs are a common size metric stud, any japanese car/truck/bike dealer will (should) have them. Try for inconel studs and standard grade 8 nuts, inconel stus/bolts are black normaly and will allow you to remove them after years of high heat and water. They were designed for the space program as they do not change structure when heated or cooled and they maintain their tolerences.

 

The 5th gen pipes are mild steel aren't they? My 6th gen were stainless so I had no rust but my 01 appears to be rusty.

 

01-08 are hard steel, though not stainless. Mine have small spots on them too, Im looking at having them chromed and polished to prevent the rusting and make them look sooooo much better. though I am also looking at modding the pipes for better breathing.

 

I would hit the things with some heat from a propane torch to start working loose the oxidation. Then let cool and hit with some penetrating oil for a day. They shoudl come off well at that point.

Now, let's say that you end up in worst case and they shear. You can use a puller/extractor. Alternately, you can weld a nut onto the exposed piece of stud. The heat cycle of the welding will help break loose oxidation and the nut will give you a good surface to wrench on.

jose

 

One thing leads to another...are you sure you really want to do this?

As a true southern redneck squidbilly, i would have to respectfully disagree with the fine gentleman--you will definitely have problems getting 14 year old fasteners loose. And the worst case scenario of this picture should scare the hell out of ya.

Inconel just laughs at even the hardest carbide drill bits, much less trying to figure out how to get a drill lined up. i doubt it can be drilled out without pulling the engine and removing the heads.

Lots of good tips and advice on how to do it, if you really have to. If it ain't broke don't fix it is also worth thinking about. Good luck to you it will be good reading to hear how it goes if you try it. Hey mister--i just wanna ride.

Fruit don't talk--fruit just listens...

 

i just spray them down with pb penetrating oil a few days b4 i wanna work on it then do it everytime i look at it for a few days then go to break them free and they usually come off smooth as a babys butt. using this method i have only broken 1 stud in my life and that is because the last shadetree mech crossthreaded the dern thing..

 

I would soak the nuts for a couple days in a penetrating oil and if they feel like their going to snap I would carefully heat the nut with a pencil tip butane torch. The heat should expand the nut around the stud and free it up. Upon reassembly, copper anti-seize is your best friend...

 

Well just for the record, the broken stud in the picture didn't break as a result of an attempted removal, it was hit hard from the side and snapped off. I drilled it with a #30 drill without a problem as these are just standard issue studs and I extracted it with my handy dandy snap-on extractor as shown. It took all of five minutes. That said, I have been doing this kind of thing for a long long time and I'm well equipped. The suggestions posted up are all really good ideas that will improve your chances of a problem free removal.

 

Pretty rusted pipes and if I don't take out and take care of it I have to invest at least $400 for replacement.
In lot of cases "If it ain't broke don't fix " philosophy works but often preventive maintenance saves money on costly neglect.
Regards

 

Hi guys! I am super happy :smile:
Got the studs out without breaking them.I sprayed penetrating oil,let it seat a day and gently pulled them out.
The rusted nuts helped.All were fused solid. Phew now I can install my repaired exhaust with shiny new hardware.
Thanks for all your inputs! Big weight off my shoulders.I have no welder nor do I know how to use one.I saw lot of guys welding a nut on a stud and trying to pull out.I am glad it resolved without drama.

 

Cool.















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Right on! Glad to hear it went smooth, mang.

Jose