Another '99 5th gen restoration

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by w3bdevil, Oct 2, 2019.

  1. tsjoe007

    tsjoe007 New Member

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    Why would you do that for ? No need for a vacuum bleeder. 1/2 a turn open, activating the lever untill no more airbubbles and close the bleeder. Easy as pie.
    Those Nissins have the right layout : the bleeding nipple is close to the brake line attachment so the risk of hidden airbubbels is minimal unlike the Tokico's on my TL's. They are a real pita :mad:
     
  2. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Well I thought since all the lines are completely empty that it'd be faster to first fill the lines that way. I've never filled a completely empty system on a VFR so no experience on this yet.
     
  3. tsjoe007

    tsjoe007 New Member

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    A method that I frequently encounter is to fill the system vice versa, down from the calipers up to the reservoir, but I have never done it this way.
    If you go the vacuum bleeder way there is indeed less chance to trap air in the system but again, I have never done it myself.
     
  4. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I personally have had mixed results with vacuum bleeding, but you do have to get the master cylinders primed, and vacuum bleeder is good for that, or loosen the banjo at the master until you get fluid flowing...... I always finish off a vacuum job with the old fashioned method and speed bleeders.
    Or syringe the fluid into the calipers to push air up and out, will work well. Do one until a small amount is into the reservoir, move to the next caliper, a little more, etc. Once the hoses are full, top off the reservoir.
    Whatever method you choose, I'm sure you'll be fine, sometimes this is all debated to death, just do what makes you happy I say.
     
  5. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Still waiting for the shift star kit to arrive and the paint shop to finish my wheels and exhaust, but I did get something done in the meantime. I installed Helibars with new weights and bar ends along with short brake and clutch levers. Oiled the throttle and choke cables too. Please ignore the messy workshop in the background...

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  6. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Nice job so far! I miss my 2000 FI but don't missing having to bleed those crazy brakes! I was never satisfied with my bleeding results.
     
  7. Roccoaster

    Roccoaster New Member

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    Great thread. I started reading and thought it would be a simple one just brushing over the easy stuff but you've really got stuck in to it. Makes me think I should do the same to mine but I'm more of a fix what's broken type.

    Looking forward to seeing photos of the end result and hearing about what you think of it once you've got it back on the road.
     
  8. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Thanks! Let's see how it goes when I get into brake bleeding. Many threads about mods and stuff go silent when people get their answers and never post back with results leaving said threads rather useless for others, so I will definitely post pics of the end result and try to find time to also share my thoughts on it. First I have to get it finished though :) I did receive word from the paint shop that my wheels and exhaust are done and they will ship them back this week or early next week so soon I'll get into putting more stuff together again.
     
  9. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Finally got the parts back from the paint shop. The wheels were powder coated jet black and the exhaust headers were done with heat resistant powder coat which is very dark grey and kind of a satin finish. I'm very pleased with how the exhaust turned out since it looked quite bad to begin with. There was a slight miscommunication about covering the mating surfaces for the brake discs and they ended up painted. I don't know how big of a deal it is but I think I'll get the paint off the surface anyway. I can't wait to see that 8-spoke rear wheel on the bike, that's one of the modifications here which is purely for the looks :)

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  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    That is precisely why I stopped powder coating things. They (more than one place) just couldn't handle the masking process properly, even with instructions/notes. Hmmmm.... let's see... you're expensive, take forever and you suck. Awesome. I know there are good ones out there that understand, but I was done.

    Looks like they coated your threaded holes for you too?
     
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  11. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I would doubt if the powder thickness is enough to shim the rotors all that much, the calipers floating should more than accomodate... as long as it is uniform, I'd say likely good, but perhaps others with more experience can advise. Yeah, idjits, didn't use plugs in the threaded holes... really!? Oh well, a careful re-tap...
     
  12. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    I masked mine up before handing them over.... they did a lovely job on the 2 sets that I've just got done..although I still went over it with a scraper and will be checking with a tap.
     
  13. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    It is enough to make it feel like you have warped rotors. All of the powder must be removed from the mating surfaces. Use a thread chaser, not a tap, to slowly work the threads to remove the powder. I use a light coating of copper anti sieze on the thread chaser during the process. I chase all threaded bosses on anything that has been pc'd, one little chunk of powder can destroy threads in alloy. Don't ask me how I know........:Caked:

    Precision masking

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020 at 4:59 PM
  14. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Yep. I also gave instructions with images and all with this result. Well, it was cheap and the quality is otherwise decent so I guess I got what I paid for...

    I guess the thickness is not the problem but the surface could be ever so slightly uneven to make the disc not run straight anymore.

    Lesson learned. I will definitely do all the masking myself next time.

    That's what I thought too. I have cleaned threads in the past with a tap and even if it does kinda work (that is, not completely ruin the thread) it tends to shave a bit of material with it thus loosening the thread. So, I will march to the local hw store and pick up a set of thread chasers.
     
  15. w3bdevil

    w3bdevil New Member

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    Cleaning the mating surfaces and threads actually ended up being easier than I feared. A sharp tool and some patience was required but the mating surfaces are now clean. Threads were a bit tougher. One has to be really careful that the chaser starts on the right thread, go easy and clean the chaser often. Next up is a week's worth of family holiday in the rainy island of Éire and after that mounting some rubber and putting the VFR up on it's feet again.
     
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  16. VFRIRL

    VFRIRL New Member

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    Someone messed up the powder coating on my wheels too, the front wheel bearing on one side isn't seating properly, have to get that powder coat out from in where the bearing sits somehow, the powder coating job is flawless otherwise.
     
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