Additional ground for R/R advise

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Rubo, May 14, 2012.

  1. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    My 5th gen R/R was toast.
    Replacing with beefier R1 Yamaha Mosfet R/R
    Lot beefier connections
    New Ricks Stator

    I decided to go directly to battery from R/R with 30amp fuse
    Negative to Battery
    However since bike wiring system is sub-par could I run another heavy wire to another bolt from the battery for good measure? I firmly believe melting was caused by poor earth connections and thin Stator wires.
    Would additional wire needed? and if yes any suggestion which bolt?
    Thank you guys
     
  2. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    How did you decide that a 30 amp fuse was what you needed? What gauge wire are you using for the direct battery feed?

    If the wiring is actually sub-par, then a lower value fuse would be necessary to protect the sub-par wire from burning up. Use a larger gauge wire to carry more current, but if you have 30 amps going into your battery then something bad is going to happen fairly quickly...

    Did you solder the connectors from the stator to the RR? i firmly believe that the spade lug connectors are the root of all evil--a sliding electrical contact in the presence of AC voltage is a recipe for disaster and should be avoided--it forms a high resistance juction with arcing, metal erosion and heating. That is what causes the wires to get hot and melts the connector plastic.

    As long as you have one big heavy wire for the ground return everything is good. Make sure the connection is low resistance. But if you want an extra ground wire you could run it in parallel to the original ground from the battery to the frame lug.

    The stator produces a 3-phase AC voltage of about 60 volts and 7 amps. The R/R converts this AC to about 14.4 volts DC and 25 amps. The bike's electrical system then draws whatever current it needs to operate and charge the battery, and the leftover current gets dumped to the frame ground. If the ground connection has a high resistance then lots of heating can occur.
     
  3. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Thanks for the reply.My 5th gen stator OEM wires as you know its criminality thin and that's a huge part of R/R failure melting connectors.Anyway here is what I did.
    I bought a kit made by fellow Vfer R/R Connectors
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and bought matching Stator wires[​IMG]
    Connectors are sealed wires.
    Fuse idea from same site
    Part A is now only available with the Metri-Pack 630 ATO/ATF full size blade fuseholder shown to the right. The MP280 is a good fuseholder, but for this application I feel the larger size fuse gives better conduction and less heat.

    So that's where I am now.So I will run additional ground.Thank you for reply.
     
  4. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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  5. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ^^^ Yea, I'm running a Delphi Packard Metri pac 280 for the stator connectors. Then you see I have the pos connection with the 30A fuse in line, and the neg direct to the battery lead. On adding another ground, --- the battery has a healthy 8 gauge cable to the frame already and its a short length path, right? So, with the R/R direct to battery, you effectively have very good ground. Adding a 2nd R/R ground doesnt gain you anything. (I'm using the proportioner valve mount for ground.) The wimpy OEM leads for the R/R are essentially taken out of the loop and dont matter any more. That's why I sealed the connector plug - to protect against any future corrosion and any shorts. btw - no vfrness required.
     
  7. rangemaster

    rangemaster New Member

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    I did an additional ground on my 4th gen, in addition to going direct to the battery with the positive from the R/R. I used a 25 amp fuse and it has worked great for 3 years. I ran an 8 gauge wire direct from the battery to a bolt on the left side of the engine. I also ran the ground from the R/R to a bolt on the frame on the right side of the bike. You should cut out the stupid connector on the stator wires to the R/R and solder/heat shrink them. Good luck.
     
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