98 R1 fork swap

The closer the regulator to the battery and closer the stator to the regulator the better. Keep the lines as short as possible. There are several calculators and charts online for wire gauge that relate wire length & current draw versus wire gauge. Properly sized wire will decrease voltage drop in the line and make it easier for the regulator to do its job. Keep the oil the oil changed as per Honda.

As a side note on the regulator stuff, I will have now taken recommendations from members here and there, forums and such BUT transferred what I know about these devices, being an EE, budding into a power electronics guy: Heat is the bane of all electronics; the connectors Honda used are crap. They allow all types of filth to get into the connectors' housings and insulate to a great degree the connection increasing its resistance. With an increased temperature at the connector, it forms an even more uniform and effective insulating smut or grunge (better word escapes me right now). More so, many have changed regulators and stators or performed some type of kludge without knowing what or why.

Regulators ARE a wear item. Each individual switching element inside it (MOSFET or TRIAC whatever) has a switching life that is derated with temperature among other specifications. In addition, these regulators are derated for current with increasing temperature. The derating is not always linear at that.

I have had the hardest time trying to find a datasheet for our OEM regulators. As it appears, they are only given to OEMs. Here is a snapshot of a derating curve I was able to dig up: . It does have a linear derating curve. Larger regulators may offer some more robustness, in that the devices inside have higher current ratings and/or larger heatsinks equaling a more favorable derating curve.

Additionally, I am not sure if the voltage sense for the battery is active or not. Honda left it unconnected in the 6th gens. It may be part of a universal harness which is not connected to the control circuitry inside. I am not sure, and at this time unable to verify (other stuff going). The open loop performance of the circuit should be pretty good, good enough.

Basically, we get a bunch of well dones, then later on more failures, then another kludge. The what and why are important even more so than the fix. Empirical evidence is great but over time may prove wanting.

Without further investigation, I'd wager our OEM systems are up to snuff if the connectors are clean and lack any appreciable resistance.

When going back to look at some differences between the 5th and 6th gens from a really general zoom, I can tell Honda did a few things that are right up there with best practices based on engineering principle. Why they have those funky connectors, I dunno.

 

That's why I mounted my rr on the left passenger foot peg. It has the shortest possible stator to rr to battery route and plenty of cool air flow. It's not the prettiest set up, but definitely the most functional​.

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Gave the engine a good clean today, basically twiddling my thumbs until the frame is ready.

 

Hey all, long time no post...

Frame, swingarm and tail are back from welding & blasting!







The pieces are nothing short of incredible, welds also came out beautifully and I am beyond happy with the results. Will update when I've got them installed!

 

Bikes back together (sort of) so now I get to do the fun bit...





*sidenote, should I start up another thread for the CBR tail? Gets a bit lost in here.

 

Yes please!! Subframes are so tough to get right and good threads on the topic are few and far between.



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Will do

 

+1 Yes Please!

 

Done! Go check it out.

I'm away for today but back tomorrow afternoon and should have the new exhaust, I'll update then.

 

Thanks for posting the new thread!


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any updates on this wonderful built? project completed.....photos? feedback?

 

Wow I forgot this existed haha, I've been neglecting you guys.

The bike is completely different now and has gone through a couple of revisions.

First it was mostly stock with R1 forks and the Rapid bike module



Then it had a CBR tail, undertail exhaust, CBR forks and no fairings



And finally, a Ducati monster tail and seat, custom shorty exhaust, 6th Gen tank and Streetfighter 848 master cylinders



So yeah, I've been around the build block a few times now. Learned a fair bit, spent a lot

Somewhere in the mix I switched to CBR coil on plugs, an aftermarket dash and added a keyless ignition system.

If you have any questions feel free to ask away, always happy to help out and/or chat

As far as the R1 forks go, they were great for maintaining similar to stock geometry with a nice suspension and braking performance boost. CBR forks are a more 'drop in' mod but drastically change the rake and trail and thus how the bike handles.

 

Wow you were busy indeed!!! You managed to produce 3 different bikes out of 1, kudos to you Skillz!!! Thank you for the update

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