8th Gen VFR800 Oil Change Guide

But. mine was not still on the oil filter obviously. I was stuck to the engine and did not see it. Again poor lighting, beer, late at night and pissy. I am glad it fell off when I dropped the new filter back down, because I would have attached the new filer on with a poor double seal or non at all! That would have really pissed me off even more. Lessons learned. They new filter I bought has a different seal and does not use that metal lip to keep in on. The seal is inset on the filer itself. I could not compare the two due to throwing away the first and finishing a couple of days later after trash pickup. Really glad that tanner posted a picture of a different type of filter that also fits!

 

Just for info this is the one I bought and was putting on, and the other one is one that the dealer put on. You can see the comparison of the oil seal! I could not figure out the difference with out the reference that tanner gave due to tossing away the other filter with out a reference.

 

Thanks for this. Followed the link to the printable version on my iPad and copied it to iBooks, now have easy access when I need it. (Tap screen once when link is open and prompt to copy to iBooks appears at top of screen)

 

The PDF seems.. popular. I will work with my wife (graphics design) to make it a more friendly looking document.

 

Oh shit, Ok with all of this. I did finish the change sober added some oil to the filter, and added 2 and 7/8 quarts back in and ran it for a couple of minutes, checked the oil. it wanted more so I did until it came to the full line and thought I was done (obviously impatient in waiting to see the correct level as well as the shit of the o-ring mystery). I Thought nothing of it and was glad to ride. Clutch worked as well and did not notice anything, no indicator lights on the oil but I believe that is for low oil only not pressure or other issues.

Now today. I put it up on its center stand (again a bitch) at work and after a brutal few hours went outside and lit a smoke, looked at the oil window! I found out that I did over fill it by probably .1-.3 quarts. I did this In retrospect due to at the time it wanted more than I thought was the 3.1 or 3.2 quarts. I kicked over a quart and lost a good amount so I was not accurate on the refill. I just went with the fill window. I used full synthetic again and have put 200 miles on it overfilled. I will correct it tomorrow. But, any serious concerns that I should have here. The level is above full but does not fill the entire level window.

 

Here's a preview of the WIP printable copy..

I'll probably go back through and revise some of the text, and update the main post to reflect it.

 

Like the set up indeed. Well done.

Can I ask as this is an international community could you add in measurements in international speak as well ie litres and Nm.

 

Sure, but do note that the US model's procedure, that this guide is based on, potentially differs from ROTW models. Apparently the whole lower radiator support removal is not required on ROTW models, but I have yet to have a 100% confirmation. Once I know for sure I'll add a note/asterisk.

 

Just wanted to give a big shout out to thtanner, finally came time to do the oil change and your downloadable guide was great made it very easy to do. Thanks again.

 

I can definitely confirm it is not necessary to remove or loosen the radiator on the 8th gen model we get in Australia. Can’t understand why this would be different in the USofA?

 

They have an evap canister in the way which ROW doesn’t get.

 

I was a little worried with what I got into after reading this thread on the oil change procedure. But honestly as far as fully faird bikes it is the easiest one I've changed oil on.

Remove one half of lower fairing, unscrew filter, pull out. I've got a 2015 Deluxe and most of what is on the OP wasn't required.

 

Maybe this is more a case of the year of manufacture as opposed to what country the model was for. I see robborboy is in the USA and didn’t have to move the radiator. My 8th gen is a 2014 deluxe ( no std model in Oz ) and I didn’t have to touch the radiator either. Don’t think it would be a deluxe vs std thing?

 

Beautiful work. Thank you! Just purchased a brand new 2014 beauty and this will help me in doing her first oil change.

 

Yup, for those of us with the evap canister, it alot easier if remove the bolts and tilt the radiator a little. No need to undo any water lines, that 1/2" tilt is enough to get filter out.

Nice job on the instructions, only thing I would add for those new to this site is STAY AWAY FROM THE K & N FILTER!!


Pictures compliments of A.M.

 

Brilliant.

 

Just to add a bit from all the Hondas I've worked on..... there is also no need to replace the aluminum "crush" washer every time, it will last you years if you do not snug it too much (i.e., not past 22 ft. lbs.). Even if you do overtorque, it will take several times to make it curl around the head of the drain plug, which is the only bad thing that's gonna happen.
As for the cannisters, would that not be just the California models that got cannisters......... nobody else ever has to my knowledge.

 

Also like to add, just did oil change on my 2015 Standard, US/Canada model. There IS an evap cannister and you DO need to loosen the radiator bolt to get the filter out and the wrench in. You DON'T have any reason to remove the right side lower, unless you don't have any worklight. That's the only reason I could see for its removal.