87 VFR 700F2AC – My 50th Birthday Present to Myself

I have mounted and ridden on Conti Go! bias tires and I really like them.

 

I've been trying to figure out next steps for removing rust from within the gas tank. I've read and watched a lot of videos on how people remove this rust, but I'm doubting some of the recommendations.

I decided to science this shit up to get rid of the rust. I grounded the tank to my battery, and apply positive lead to a hand made sacrificial rod that sits inside the tank opening. I filled the tank with a water and sodium carbonate mixture. I let it sit overnight, and it pulled most of the rust out. Still trying to figure out how to prevent it from rusting in the future.

Electrolysis Gas Tank Rust by mcpmartin posted Feb 10, 2024 at 11:05 AM

Gas Tank Rust Sacraficial Rod by mcpmartin posted Feb 10, 2024 at 11:12 AM

Gas Tank Rust_Electrolysis Removal by mcpmartin posted Feb 10, 2024 at 11:02 AM

 

Update - I got the carbs pulled part, and replaced the brittle factory "pipes" that interconnect the carbs with metal ones. I also took all the jets out and thoroughly cleaned them. All carbs were put back together with new float seats, needles, filter screens, and gaskets. I synced all 4 carbs too. The bike is now all put back together, and it fires right up with little effort. Here's my new problem. The bike starts super easy and idles great. However, when I put a load on the engine (like easing out on the clutch while in 1st gear), the bike wants to die. While in neutral, the bike will rev up to as many RPMS as I want, but trying to drive the bike in gear kills the engine (engine fully warm). Does anyone have a suggestion on what's happening here?

Added context: I bought this bike a couple months back, and it has not ran in 7+ years. I knew the carbs were gummed up, so that's why I took everything apart to clean & replace parts. After the carb work, it starts extremely easy & idles great. Also, this bike does not have a kickstand safety switch either (someone asked this already).

IMG_1288 by mcpmartin posted Mar 3, 2024 at 7:10 PM

IMG_1289 by mcpmartin posted Mar 3, 2024 at 7:10 PM

IMG_1319 by mcpmartin posted Mar 3, 2024 at 7:10 PM

 

That was happening to me on my RC36 but I found out it was because I didn't have the kickstand up (duh!) and it had a safety switch on it. I don't think 2nd Gens have those.

That's a gorgeous bike!

Hope someone can help you - Captain 80's in particular is pretty good at stuff like this......

 

That would cause the eng. to die instantly once put in gear.

 

These are situations that are very hard to diagnose. Couple questions...

You RODE the bike before carb work and it didn't do this?
EDIT: Reading back, it appears not.

Did you change/service ANYTHING else at the same time as the carb rebuild?
EDIT: Perhaps not relevant if "NO RIDE" to 1st question.

 

Couple thoughts...

Diaphragms were closely inspected and verified installed / working correctly?

Air box stock and completely assembled / installed?

 

Back many ...many moons ago I had a 1975 CB200. Bike did the same thing one morning. I traced it down to a semi collapsed baffle in the exhaust.
Probably not the cause of your issue but doesn't hurt to bring it up...

 

No kickstand safety switch here. I'm suspecting a vacuum leak at this point. I'll head out to grab a can of carb cleaner and test for leaks later in the day.

 

I bought this bike a couple months back, and it has not ran in 7+ years (I have never been able to ride this bike).
No, besides the carbs I did nothing else (except new battery, R/R, & new fuel lines & filter).
I knew the carbs were gummed up, so that's why I took them apart to clean & replace parts.
After the carb work, it starts extremely easy & idles great.
Also, this bike does not have a kickstand safety switch either (someone asked this in a previous post).

 

Honestly speaking, my knowledge of diaphragms is limited to women (ha). What is the purpose of a bike diaphragm (I just don't know)? I do not recall seeing any cracks or damage to mine while I had the carbs apart. Is there a way to test them, or is it best to just pull & replace mine since they are probably original to the bike?
Also, the airbox is fully cleaned, assembled, and installed on the bike.

 

They are responsible for lifting the needles out of the main jet / holder by way of vacuum. They can be tricky in to install without pinching.

You can test them by lifting them with your finger and see how they react. You should hear some air movement and they should have a little resistance, and should fall fairly quickly, smooth and controlled. You can also blow some air in one of the orifices where the airbox mounts and simulate the action and see if they rise and fall as desired.

It is best to hold them in the "mushroom" position with your finger down the intake when installing the spring and cap. It really helps keep the perimeter of the diaphragm in the groove and prevent pinching. You can usually hold the cap with your thumb while you keep the slide from falling with your forefinger, then just get 2 screws in with your free hand. It should fall smoothly when released. Test a couple more times and install the other 2 screws.

 

Also was / is this a California bike?

 

Unfortunately, yes. I removed all the vacuum lines and capped off every emission related part I could find. It would probably be wise to go back over the engine and look for something I missed or a loose cap.

 

Not sure I fully understand this, but I'll give it a shot. Thank you!

 

The are 4 spigots on the carbs off the float bowl chambers that need to be capped or connected to each other in pairs (what I do). There is one odd one that is a vacuum spigot that must be capped properly.

And nipples / spigots off of the intake tracts on the head that were used for the emissions system need to be capped or replaced with screws / sealing washers.

The large spigot off the lower half of the air box needs to be capped / plugged. The larger vent tube off of the carbs that is now free from the emissions system absolutely cannot be connected to the spigot on the airbox. The intake rush creates a vacuum and the bike will fall on it's face. The large carb vent needs to be open to atmosphere and just pointed down somewhere and secured.

What did you do with the ports / steel lines on the front head?

 

In your above comments..........what does R&R mean?

Also...... the bike hadn't been run in 7 years.......and you didn't have to work on the clutch hydraulics?

You didn't mention it is why I ask.

Brake work....(also not mentioned)?

Thanks!

 

Regulator / Rectifier

 

OK thanks...must have missed that.......

 

You didn't, but in the context with a new battery...