6th gen won't turn on. Battery is fully charged.

Good move on getting a meter. It is telling you that the battery is no good. You can also use the meter on the beeper continuity or ohms setting to verify that the fuses are okay--sometimes they may look good but be fused, i.e. an open circuit.

 

Ye Gods - I've never seen such a low battery volts. Its as dead as a dead thing, so before doing any more testing replace the battery. Your battery tender is probably working just fine, but it can't perform miracles, it will try and feed power to a battery but should give up when it detects it can't accept any more. Your battery is so deceased its like trying to revive an Egyptian mummy.

Hopefully once you get a new battery, the bike will then run fine. But its still worth getting a bit more practice with your nice new multi meter to ensure the charging system is doing its thing correctly, and won't let you down again.

So take seat off and ensure you can get at the battery terminals. Start engine, and once its is idling - set meter to read volts DC (and if you have a choice then scale at 20 volts should be fine) put positive meter probe on positive battery terminal - place negative meter probe on negative battery terminal. Write down the DC volts. Get a friend to increase the revs to at least 2,000 rpm whilst you check the DC volts again.
With a healthy RR it will be delivering 13 - 14 volts+ at idle, and between 14 and 15 volts above 2,000 rpm. It should never exceed 15.5 volts or things like headlight bulbs will blow. (Lights on/lights off should make no more than about 0.5V difference to those numbers.)

Hopefully your test will confirm everything is fine. Post up again if your findings are significantly off - as it may mean you still have an electrical issue.




SkiMad

 

<<drude

I was chatting with a limo driver that rides while I was sitting around waiting for the flatbed. He told me when boosting put the side stand up. Which we didn't know, nor aware of. So you should put the stand up and bike in gear then? >>


I can sort of see the logic of this advice from the perspective of the sort of training which would be given to a recovery truck driver trying to boost start a motorbike. Nowadays bikes have loads of safety interlocks - basically designed to stop us doing daft things. However different manufacturers have different safety interlock systems, so I guess it makes sense to train staff with a procedure which should work regardless of what interlocks are fitted to the bike you are trying to boost start. With the kickstand down my VFR will start with the bike in neutral - but my Street Triple would not start until I also hold the clutch in. I guess that whilst putting the kickstand up may not be essential to start a VFR, it might be for some other bike, also I guess if the bike has any issue with clutch drag even in neutral, then having the stand up with owner sat on the bike, may give you some chance of stopping things going badly wrong.

However I am less convinced about the idea of putting the bike into gear (unless they meant selecting neutral gear). The only extra step I would always advise is crossing fingers ...:smile:


SkiMad

 

But, drude, you stated clearly in post #1 that the battery was fully charged !!!!?

Trickel chargers are OK for maintaining a well-charged battery, but no good at all for bringing a mostly-discharged one back to full 12.6 volts.

 

New battery . . .

AND the kill-switch suggestion was worth making. Don't ask me why I know.