5TH Gen Header, 6TH Gen Subframe & Gas Tank Lock Refinish

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by ridnout, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    Did these a while ago.

    20150906_143818.jpeg The naked rusty truth.

    IMG_6043.JPG IMG_6044.JPG IMG_6045.JPG IMG_6046.JPG Bare headers sans rear tubes (pics misplaced). Notice the overall condition lacking any major flaws other than the pitting.

    Next, steps taken to get these headers in order.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
  2. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    e9f4a1b85fdd7353e584f041f20ec342.png evapo-rust-paint-thinner-solvents-cleaners-er013-64_1000.jpg
    Armed with tow or three 3" or 4" wire wheel brushes, Evaporust (combined ebay offer with bucks if IIRC), a buttload of elbow grease and fortitude during cold December, I had some decent headers but far from perfect, escpecially the areas between collectors.

    A trip to Leonard Metal Fabricators in Pearl, MS to get the '04 sub-frame refinished revealed sandblasting would be perfect, as with the right media and grit, the surface would be quite porous ready for coating. I did not document the experience with the Evaporust-wire wheel combination but have several images of the headers from Leonard Metal's. They did an excellent job, wrapping and placing everything on a pallet.
    IMG_6532.JPG IMG_6531.JPG IMG_6536.JPG IMG_6535.JPG IMG_6534.JPG

    A bit of surface rust forming; but to stop that, Evaporust would be applied to the headers.

    IMG_6537.JPG IMG_6554.JPG

    More detail...
     
  3. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    More detail:
    IMG_6541.JPG IMG_6540.JPG IMG_6539.JPG IMG_6538.JPG
     
  4. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    With Evaporust applied:
    IMG_6548.JPG IMG_6550.JPG IMG_6551.JPG IMG_6552.JPG IMG_6543.JPG IMG_6544.JPG IMG_6545.JPG IMG_6546.JPG IMG_6547.JPG IMG_6553.JPG
     
  5. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    Armed with Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat and some mild days, voila:
    41HC6jEi41L._SX425_.jpg IMG_6581.JPG IMG_6582.JPG IMG_6583.JPG IMG_6580.JPG
     
  6. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    On the bike and assembly. Jackie is still in that state, so I will probably take better pictures.
    IMG_6759.JPG IMG_6760.JPG IMG_6758.JPG

    Gaskets, clamps, and hardware came from mad4bikes, a UK seller. Was able to obtain the clamps and all in a nice little clear clamshell box. An eBay item number 381772067150 purchase,
    Honda VFR800 New Exhaust Gasket Seal Set Complete For The vfr800 Fi 1998 & 1999, got the communication rolling.

    Lost a header bolt and obtained that from Honda; although, later, I realized I could have used some of the 6TH Gen parts from an eBay lot purchase even though part numbers are different.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
  7. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    Now the bang up job on the subframe and gas cap. Had some issues, but more on that later.

    Subframe (umm, didn't take pics at the time of them completely unwrapped, because protection was paramount.
    IMG_6575.JPG IMG_6579.JPG

    Gas cap (didn't take time to rub off fingerprints).
    IMG_6578.JPG IMG_6577.JPG IMG_6576.JPG
     
  8. mhzpower

    mhzpower New Member

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    This is great, I wanted to clean up my headers the same way. More for protection than looks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Nice work Ridnout. If I do this I think that I might want to use a white high temp paint on the headers. I'm interested in knowing how well the paint holds up.
     
  10. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    I pieced together the procedure from this forum, some others, and a particular YouTube video that was a great positive.

    Key, there was one frequent mechanic and maybe another IIRC, here on VFRW that mentioned the BBQ coating and the pitfalls of all the other stuff that led to the right YouTube video. There, this guy was recalling all of the bad experiences as a prep for this video; this would be the last straw. Whether the headers were prepared professionally or were d.i.y. projects with curing on the car, each experience the same--the coating just flaked off within minutes of smoking.

    Now, here is the key, I freaked out when they began to smoke; as I thought there was some sort of leak. I had just gotten her back together including having to prime the cylinders with gas (that 10% ethanol over time will gum up everything if the vehicle sits), and she begins to smoke. I panicked looking for signs of leaks; then it hit me.

    I then let Jackie run until the smoke stopped, just like in the video. At this point everything else had flaked off. He believed as I do that this is the real deal.

    Now to answer your question directly: This is not a paint; it is a coating. It is very forgiving and will take fix up coats--it flattens well. I did a number on the headers during installation with plenty fine scratches and smudges. Some well placed masking and few shot here or there could do wonders. I do not expect them to stay black black but a charcoal type color maybe as heat over time takes its affect and removes the luster. That's okay, because this is a functional thing; just so happens looks better Rust-4-Realium.

    Oh yes, remember again, this is not a paint. It will not even feel like a painted metal surface, somewhere between that and an undercoating, just my opinion on tactile. It should be very amenable to touch up repairs on bike so long as there is access free of obstruction and a way exists within your imagination to prevent overspray.
     
  11. mhzpower

    mhzpower New Member

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    I checked with Kool Coat Ceramic Coatings Ltd. (local to Vancouver) and they priced ceramic coating at $20 cad per linear foot.

    If I estimate 10 linear feet, that is $200.

    Does that seem reasonable?

    http://www.koolcoatceramiccoatings.com/
    They claim huge reductions is radiated heat.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    Sorry for getting back so late or for others much more experienced not chiming in on your concern. To put it bluntly, I have no experience with the ceramic coatings, though there are some on here that have had excellent to mixed to horrendous results. As far as price, compare to maybe JetHot or other outfits to gauge value. Also enlist testimonials from folk that have done business with them especially forum members or riders.
     
  13. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    This is a requirement, if you really want to develop a complete approach to managing heat with a VFR800. The JetHot does a great job of cutting down the skin temp of the exhaust, which lowers the air temps inside the fairings. This also has the benefit of keeping excess latent heat from heating up the oil pan and the rear shock, helping to keep the oil temps cooler as well. I totally recommend it. It's worth the money and $200 sounds about right.
     
  14. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    As Norcal says...

    However, from reading of others' experiences on the net, I have deduced the following:

    1) Ceramic coatings such as JetHot are great for mild steel, especially if the prep is top notch, reducing radiated heat.

    2) Improves looks, though the coating will lose its luster gradually over heat cycles.

    3) Ceramic coatings such as JetHot on stainless steel are not a good idea over the long haul, especially for a daily driver or commuter; as the ceramic coating will cause the stainless to deteriorate much more quickly than without. I believe those who have done this do not ride regularly or in the wet. Search threads, there have been some horrible results from JetHot here or there.

    4) For a 6TH Gen that operates on the lean side of stoichiometric, keeping the heat internal to the header pipes will increase gas flow aiding scavenging blah blah blah for a very small increase in torque and resultant horsepower.

    For me, the choice is complicated, as I am normally a VFR commuter. Stainless (304) still will rust. Check the front tubes at the radius which receive blistering temps, and you will probably find some rust, pitting, or where a magnet will want to attract. I love the look and the idea. I am just concerned over longevity. On a side note, I have some stainless headers that have extra thick plates welded to those areas.
     
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