2007 VFR 800FI does not like cold

Eb, I started mine 2 days ago in my garage at 40deg. F. During initial start up when you see the white smoke put your hand behind the the exhaust in the white smoke and you will feel the moisture on your hand. This is normal. As the engine warms the white smoke (Moisture) will disapate.

Now watch your temp gauge at idle, it will rise to about 175 deg. F and fall back to the mid 160's and rise again to 175. This will happen 2 or 3 more times. This is also normal. The reason the temperature falls back a few times is because the thermostat has just opened and allowed all the cold fluid in the radiator to dump into the engine. When this cold fluid hits the thermostat it causes the thermostat to close again and greatly slow the flow of coolant. The process begins again. As I said this process will happen again until all the coolant in the whole system warms, at this time the temperature will rise above 175 and keep climbing until the fan comes on at about 220 deg. F. If your bike reacts in this manor the thermostat is fine and working properly. The colder the temperature is at start up the more dramatic the fallback when the thermostat opens. If the temperature is in the 70's or 80's when you start your bike this fallback will be much less noticeable. You may only notice this on the first start of the day.

As far as the idle problems, I don't have a clue. I can guess at a few things. How many miles are on your bike? Is it truly broken in? I didn't start getting good mileage until after 3,500 miles and my best, 43 mpg, came after 5,000. My point is, if you have very low mileage, some of these problems may sort themselves out with age. These VFR's stay tight for a long, long time.

Wow, sorry for the long post!

Maggot

 

The stalling issue is news to me. 1200 rpm at warm idle. I live in the mountains of NC, and we get a little cold weather. I have noticed the water in the exhaust till the bike warms up, and that the motor loves the colder air. There seems to be an increase in HP on the top end, when the temp is around 40 degrees. The front wheel seems to get lighter in colder weather.

Mac

 

HAVCAR,

I love riding, but like you, I will tolerate the winter months and enjoy the riding here in the midwest any day over the straight shot roads in Florida. Sure I would be nice to go for a ride, but how BORING it would be to go in a straight line all the time!!!!

 

haters... :tongue:

 

Not hate'n,

Just say'n :thumbsup:

 

+1,good post and as you say it may be the wax unit malfunctioning.

 

I just got my 2008 and haven't been able to ride it because of it being anywhere from 0 degrees to 10 degrees as a high in Milwaukee, Wi. I have been starting her everyother day and have noticed that she smokes quit a bit but once warm idles to 1200 rpm with no smoke.

I do have 2 questions if anyone could help. First the owners manual states that I should fill the gas tank but I don't think thats wise becouse I wont be able to ride her till april and I know gas goes bad. I don't want to put stabilizer in her because I hear that may damage the bike over time not sure if thats true.

Second, Owner manual stats I should remove spark plugs a put a teaspone of oil down spark plug cylinder if it gets really cold where I live which it does. Is this really nessasary

Thanks

 

if you are starting her every other day or so, do NOT put oil down the cylinders.
only do that if you are winterizing the bike.
if you are starting the bike every couple days, make sure to get the engine hot. let it idle up to about 110 degrees or so, where shell come off the high idle circuit. then hold her in between 3 to 5 grand for a while, varying the rpms. let the engine go through some heat cycles, fan on and off...
to burn off any condensation/ice that may be in the oil and gas.:thumbsup:

also youve got really low viscosity winter oil in her right?

 

Yes on the oil viscocity, Thanks for the how to. what about the stabilizer. Should I fill the gas tank to full and add stabilizer. I guess I'm worried about condensation building in the gas tank when it is near empty or having the gas go bad over a 3 month period.

 

yeah fill the tank up and then add what ever the ratio says to add. like if its one bottle per 12 gal tank, add half the bottle...

 

Hey Ryan, I'm 75 miles south of you and I add a little over 2 oz. of Sta-bil. (1 oz. for 2.5 Gal. per bottle directions) and fill the tank full. Run it for a minute or two to make sure you get the Sta-bil through the gas lines, pump and fuel injectors. I plug in my battery tender and pretty much forget about it. I park it on the centerstand and whenever I remember I turn the front wheel a few dregrees by hand. Starting it is fine but don't do it when it is real cold! Most wear and tear is on initial start-up. I usually only start it once or twice over the winter but only when it's in the mid 30's or higher. If you do start it, make sure you get it good and hot to get out all the moisture out otherwise you would be better off not starting it.

When I restart after sitting for a while, I always turn the ignition on until the FI light goes off. Then I turn the key off and turn it on again until th FI light goes off again. I'm not sure but I think this helps pump up the fuel pressure and makes sure gas is ready to flow. Then I hit the start button and it always fires right up!

Maggot

 

Fill 'er up. Less chance for condensation and rust. Fuel will keep fine for the Winter since it's so cold and dry. Specially if it's stabilized.

Nix the constant starting when you can't actually ride it. You're doing more harm than good.

 

I think Dizz is right about excessive, mostly unnecessary engine starts.

Cold weather starts are especially hard on piston skirts, rings, cylinder walls, cam bearings, and crank bearings due to increased oil viscosity at low temperatures and consequent reluctance to flow.

If you insist on this doubtful and unnecessary practice, at least use the "OFF-RUN" switch to build oil pressure by cranking motor over while set on OFF until the red oil pressure light blinks off.

Also, during the cool down phase it's normal and unavoidable for moisture to condense inside engine case, something to be avoided as often as possible.

 

Hard on sparks and cat converter, too. Too much running on the enrichment circuit. If you rev the engine up it just makes it worse. If you hold 5000 RPM while the bike is stationary, there's no load on the engine and it tends to cause a 'rich' condition.

 

Thanks Maggot and everyone else:

I fill her up and add stabilizer and forget about her for a few months. easier said than done.