2004 VFR 800 Basic Maintenance Related Questions

Hi Faran

The drill results look OK (for now) with the exception of the battery charged figure - basically if that is the real battery volts post an overnight charge then its living on borrowed time and if you don't change it soon then it just might start a cascade of more expensive issues. Think of it this way - the four elements of the charging system (loom, Stator, RR and Battery) all need to be in good order and a fault in one can lead to damage in some or all of the others. As a battery ages it can't hold so much charge - so not just making starting more problematic, but it also makes the RR work harder to keep the system volts up and try and force charge into a battery which can't take it. As that task gets progressively harder the RR works harder with higher current flow from the stator and inevitably the wiring starts to get hot as it carries more and more load. That connector with three yellow wires is the link from the stator to the RR - and that scorch marking suggests it has been getting pretty hot.

So I would suggest you -

- replace the battery asap - make sure battery terminal connections are clean and snug.
- disconnect that connector and clean all the contacts as best you can to ensure they make a robust and solid join, (electrical terminal cleaner may help) otherwise that connector can ultimately melt allowing the yellow wires to cross connect and bang goes the Stator (£500) closely followed by the RR (£100). If its too far gone quite a few people have successfully deleted the connector entirely - soldering and shrink wrapping the wires instead.
- check all the charging system wiring for similar signs of heat damage and treat as necessary. Also check the grounds are not corroded.
- fit some sort of dash mounted volt meter to keep an eye on the voltage. If it drops way low or shoots through the roof it may just give you enough advance warning to get the bike to a place of safety before the charging system gives out leaving you stranded.

With luck you have caught this one just in time.



SkiMad

 

Thanks for your detailed response Skimad.

How expensive dash mount meter is? Should I replace the battery ASAP or can wait till next riding season.

Though, I'll be occasionally riding the bike during weather(nice weather permitted).

P.S: Should I do the drill after replacing the battery or not necessary? Also, where are grounds located?

 

Can anyone please advise about dash mount meter options too?Also, anyway I can install bigger/thick wires which are going to stator, is it possible?

 

Can't help you with an install about wire size changes to the stator but if you're looking for what kind of volt meter to install, check out this thread. There are about as many options as imaginable and about as many methods. I purchased a Datel meter for mine and installed it on the left side of the dash surround (black plastic) and wired it through a relay to read from the battery terminals. The 6th gen bikes have a different upper cowl so the mounting location I used on my bike is likely going to be different from yours. The Datel meter I used I purchased direct from Datel but they also sell them online at www.wiremybike.com

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70384-post-your-voltmeter-mount-pics/

 

Thanks for your help again. Should I upgrade stator wires/stator connector going into R/R harness?

Or there is no need for it, get on board voltage monitor and new battery and monitor things.

 

As I said it looks like you have caught this just in time. If it was me I would already be fitting a new battery as the risk of incurring far more expensive damage is not worth taking - Yuasa is the way to go.

As for the stator connector - separate it and inspect it first.

I can only judge by that picture which suggests it has not got to melt down stage. But obviously we need you to check the whole connector - as we can only see part of it! Hopefully it will all be fine, and just needs a decent clean.

Spray contact cleaner is ideal as it dissolves gunk and evaporates off without leaving a residue, use loads (outdoors is good as the label on my can says it has scary stuff), if necessary follow up with fine emery - you don't want to leave any verdigris in those connections. Once its clean, you may want to apply a smear of terminal grease to inhibit water ingress and deterioration.

Then when you are done reconnect it and make sure all three of the integral connections are secure. Don't forget at times there is 60+ volts AC running thorough each of those yellow wires and bikes are great for shaking things loose so if there is any play it can quickly create arcing and loads of heat which will fuse the whole thing into a very expensive mess. Judicious use of needle nose pliers may snug things up.

As for a volt meter try eBay.com - there are loads from a couple of dollars on up. I have a fancy but expensive DGV set-up from Acumen with a plug and play piggyback harness connector onto the instrument panel wiring. But cheap hard wired ones from China should work fine and can easily be perched on the top of the binnacle with double sided tape - so no cutting holes - just hook into a wire which goes live with the ignition (side light bulb in the headlamp?) and a suitable earth. What matters is stability not a precise number. I find these digital displays can read a bit over/under compared with my volt meters - which also don't precisely agree when measuring exactly the same current.

Fingers crossed.



SkiMad

 

Thanks so much Skimad. Yuasa is veryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy expensive man, I was planning to bite the bullet but it's over $100!

Are you aware of any place which sells Yuasa for cheap? :smile:

Yes, I have been using electrical connector cleaning spray on the connector thoroughly. To me connector does not look melted or anything, looks in good shape and I am going to inspect it again while spraying the cleaner.

BTW, what's the difference between cheap ebay batteries and any other AGM battery?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Battery...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6dc3015b&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEL-Battery...Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b1502d40&vxp=mtr

 

Sorry I can't offer any sensible advice on battery prices over in the states!

I agree 100 USD sounds high as it works out at about 70 UK pounds so is roughly 10% more than you can get a battery from a retailer over here - let alone off eBay.

Hopefully some of the folks your side of the pond may be able to recommend a reliable alternative brand to Yuasa batteries.

Obviously if cash is tight, then go ahead and fit a cheaper brand. It may not last as long but is probably going to be far better than continuing to risk the RR or stator failing or the bike leaving you stranded due to a duff battery.

As for your question about differences between batteries I suggest you look at the following website, which provides loads of really sound information about motorbike batteries - you may want to read the pros/cons bit about GEL batteries http://www.whitedogbatteries.com/batfaq.htm



SkiMad

 

Totally hear you and once again, really good advice and suggestion.

Thanks again. I am looking into this option:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ionPath=L1*14920|L2*15000|L3*15602#fragment-3

Does anyone has any experience with Autocraft(advance) batteries? If so, please comment and chime in, thanks.

 

Have you tried Interstate Batteries. I purchased a Yuasa YTX12BS (same battery in my 96 and 2000 VFR) for my wife's bike earlier this year and I paid $86.

 

Unhooked the battery today and realized it's Yuasa battery with a code of "PM2648"(?). So I checked with Yuasa and battery is from Sept 2011 and seller was right, 3 years old battery.

Took the battery after keeping it on tender for almost 24 hrs at batteries plus and autozone.

They load tested it and said battery is good. At batteries plus he showed me, it's showing CCA of 208 and battery is rated at 210. :confusion:

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Haven't looked at it yet, but going to look into it.