2004 VFR 800 Basic Maintenance Related Questions

Bike has been with owners in Virginia, though previous owner took it to several other places.

Not exactly sure what you mean by relocate? I removed the whole caliper from rotor and just used a bungy to hold it while I was opening and closing the bleeder and my helper was depressing rear brake lever.

 

Just realized, I did not relocate and attached rear caliper to rotor. Is that the reason piston isn't going back in?

 

Loosen the the center bleeder on the rear caliper then try & compress the piston. That should allow the fluid to escape through the bleeder & allow the piston to retract. Then relocate the caliper as shown & bleed the brakes.

 

Alright, let me try doing it and will report back.

 

If you poke around the forums a little you'll find your not the first person to do this & you won't be the last. I've heard of dealers charging up to 4 hrs labor for this hole process.

 

Alright Arzinator, I am glad to report that I just tightened up everything. Was able to put the pad back by cracking the center bleeder, thanks a ton for helping out. I really appreciate it.

One last thing, I just bled both rear brake bleeders by using ONLY rear brake lever. Is that enough or should I bleed whole system again? Please let me know and thank you again.

 

If I hold the air filter right in front of a bulb, yes I can see the light. But if I hold it in normal light, sometimes I can see and sometimes I can't. Can it be used for few months(off season) or needs to be replaced?

 

Check your brakes as you normally would. With the bike on the center stand spin the front wheel by hand. The wheel should stop with either brake. Same goes for the rear. Also do this :




If you have good feel at both brakes, lever & pedal you should be good. i'd also do a short test drive after your initial inspection. If everything feels good on the road your all set.

 

Yes, front wheel does stop with both front and rear brakes. Rear wheel does stop with rear pedal only and does not stop with front lever.

Moving left caliper does provide some resistance to rear wheel but doesn't completely stop. Does that mean there is a problem?

Thanks again for helping out.

 

My bad! I just checked my bike for comparison & does exactly as you described. Pushing on the l/f caliper simulates the action of applying the front brakes. Compressing the plunger in the secondary master cylinder sending fluid pressure to the center piston of the rear caliper. Unless the bike is moving the rear wheel won't stop with the front lever.

I can force my rear wheel to move while pushing on the l/f caliper. Without splitting hairs or second guessing about how much force to apply to the l/f caliper. I'd say if you have good lever & pedal feel (no sponginess). And the brakes release properly your good. Short test drive around the block to see how it feels on the road.

 

Thank you again. Brakes are definitely working, but for some reason front lever feels a bit spongy. Rear is solid and firm.

Think, I am gonna bleed only front two bleeders while using front lever.

Now, looking around the bike and seeing all these connectors. Are these oil marks or connectors are melting/burning or what is it? Please see pictures attached, one picture is from clutch side and 2 from front side.

 

Faran you are loosing your VFR virginity on this one. In your thread "Looking to buy 2004 VFR800 and need advice" fellow VFRW member MrSleep mentioned in post #11 melted connectors. Now you know why the battery is going bad. Your probably looking at a new stator & regulator / rectifier. Personally I've never had to deal with this (knock on wood), but this is very common on VFR's. As far as 6th Gen's the problem seems to be on earlier years (02-06). There have been some posts recently from members having the problem with their 07's though. If you search the forums you will find more info than you digest on the subject.

First thing I would is disconnect the suspected connectors & see if there is any melting on the connector face. Pic 1 looks ok, check it closely to be sure. Definitely some melting on the connector 2-3 pic. Its possible the PO may have replaced the stator & reg/ rec & what your seeing is just the leftover evidence. In the meantime I would not take the bike anywhere. You could end up stranded.

This is one of the many threads on the subject: How to fix common regulator/Stator failures. There are links in this thread are also worth looking at.

 

Thanks a million Arzinator again, so what's that connector in 2/3 pict? Is it for R/R or stator? PO didn't replace anything, except wiring harness and that's about it.

What about first connector with lots of wires in it, what is it for? Sure, I am not gonna put the fairings back. First, going to make sure that bike is in stable condition in terms of electronics.

If I have to do the 'drill' and replace things, any ballpark how much I be looking at?

 

The 3 yellow wires are from the stator & go to the reg/ rec. Stator is under the round engine cover on the left side. Reg/rec is located on the frame on the right side just above radiator. The other connector with all the wires looks like the main harness. Basically connects the chassis & engine harness to a sub harness in the upper fairing.

 

Thank you again, guess I'll have to do the drill and am traveling next week.

Yeah, I can see R/R and think know where is stator too, in front of glass window to check oil level, correct? Thanks for that very helpful link. I have read it quickly and definitely will be doing all these tests. Not an expert at soldering and wire crimping, but definitely ready to learn

Thanks again for your patience and help.

 

Stator is on left side of engine. The clutch is on the right above oil inspection window.

Engine right side:


Engine left side:


Sorry about the pic quality, those are from Honda service manual.

 

Got it, you da man!!!

Thanks for clarification and I really appreciate it. I am a bike noob and was excited about the VFR and now more excited to fix it lol

 

Should you need to replace the stator on your bike here is a good "How-To" thread. Has quite a few pictures and there are also some good tips on how to align the stator cover with some temporary bolts while doing the re-install of the cover. Never hurts to read up on the process should you ever need to do the job.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/...ator-and-flywheel-how-to-with-pics/?hl=stator

 

You guys are simply awesome. I can't thank y'all enough for all of your help, cooperation and guidance.

I am going to do the 'Drill' first, report results and then take things from there. My only BIG QUESTION is, while idling and at 5000-6000rpm I am getting ~14.4V, if there be a problem/short/burnt wire(connector) then I shouldn't be getting this number, correct?

Honestly, since I have all fairings apart so it doesn't hurt to check and test things and I am going to do it.

 

Alright guys, so I did the drill today.

Please see pictures below and all results.

1-Charged battery overnight, checked voltage and it's showing 12.4-12.6V.

2-At idle and 4500-5500 rpm it shows 14.4-14.5V

3- Checked resistance for connector coming from the stator side:

A-B B-C A-C
2.4 2.1/2.2 2.4 all @200 resistance mode
0.01 0.01 0.01 all@200K resistance mode

4- One terminal grounded with bike frame and other touching connector A,B and C respectively. It shows '1' and nothing else.

5-Fired bike up and took voltage at ACV(200)

A-B B-C A-C
24.1-24.5V 24.1-24.6V 24.1.24.6V all @idling
72V 72.5V 72.8V all@5500rpm

Wires coming from R/R side look thicker compared to coming from stator, I felt for a sec that yellow wires coming from stator were a bit warm.

See pictures and advise if that's the right connector on which I took readings(Coming from stator). Also, does this R/R look stock or no?

Does all readings and measurements look normal?