1997 4th gen Project - thoughts/advice

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by KiwiRC36Fan, Jan 3, 2019.

  1. KiwiRC36Fan

    KiwiRC36Fan New Member

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    (I'll post photo's when I get home)
    But I picked up a 1997 Gen 4.

    Its pretty tidy, but theres a few things to tidy up, so here's what I have planned/underway for the project:
    Firstly, the ignition was replaced after a screw driver was used by some random dickhead to try to steal it. It was replaced with a generic ignition - no bar lock through. The gear selector lever has been replaced with a cheap one that is getting surface rust on it and looks knaff


    So in no particular order:
    * New chain/Sprockets: 16 / 43 + 530 Gold X Ring
    *Valve clearances done
    * Alternator replaced for a MOSFET
    * Steering Head bearings replaced (were slightly notched)
    * Brakes - new pads (front and rear), replaced all fluids, and given the calipers all a good once-over and a happy bath.
    * Scottoiler
    * Knee grips coming to go on the tank. Paint job is almost perfect, but... its so nice I don't feel connected at the knees when I'm slipping around on the polish
    * Fairing nogs - you can call these a low profile frame slider, I guess - primarily for the low speed drops (god forbid!) They mount in the rear most fairing bolt on each fairing
    * New mirrors (the plastic shrouds were coming away at the base, and looking untidy - PLUS I wanted spare mirrors, for quick and easy replacement... just in case)
    * OSRAM Night Breaker (H4) lamps for the headlights. No stupid HID conversions for my bad boy!

    * Home made slip-on silencer/baffle to quiet it for my early morning starts: I start work at 5am, and my neighbours have expressed some displeasure at the gorgeous sound of my Vance & Hines system - SS2R can
    (How anyone can complain about the most beautiful sound in the word drowning out the noisy native and sea birds and the gentle sound of ocean waves against the sandy beach - I don't know!! Some people!!!)
    So I made a rubber sleeve and a plastic slip-in plastic baffle with 4 x 9mm holes drilled in it. I haven't actually measured the difference in sound levels, BUT anecdotally I can hear the deep rumble of the bike idling on the street from my back room normally, with baffle in I can barely hear the engine whine from 10 metres away.
    Once i'm on the road, I can give it a blip and the plastic insert/baffle pops out once I hit about 5,500-6,00rpm... its attached to an elastic return spring to my mounted rear pack. I can remove the rubber sleeve/shroud if travelling further than my 3 minute run to work.

    * New keyless ignition system. I have a proximity fob/receiver system on its way. I'm replacing the key - I have to carry three keys on my keyring - the ignition key, the seat/gas key and the disc lock key. Under the new system I've designed and components are winging their way to me now:
    I carry gas/seat key in my tank bag/pack, along with disc lock and key - that I can carry with me when bike is locked/unattended.
    I have a FOB coming system as an dual-system immobiliser (ignition and main electrics)
    I'm installing a simple toggle switch with a fighter-trigger cover when the ignition key normally goes - this is a toggle function to a dual relay system (manual component, with two bluetooth channels) that turn the bike on and off, and also can activate a timed relay, that will turn on the primary ignition (remotely - or by flicking the toggle locally) which will turn off after a 5 minute delay if the fob is not present. The second relay provides an "inch" function - which essentially opens the starter circuit after a 2 second delay, for a second. Its a remote start function in a single unit - that cuts out if the FOB doesn't turn up within a few minutes... great for warming the bike on those cold mornings, with the silncer in place so I don't wake the neighbourhood.
    I'm also adding a GPS tracker to the same little black box of electronics, attached to the permanently NO relay side (always on power).
    This is all being mounted immediately behind the seat in the tail void space, in a tidy black box permanently fixed and sealed.
    These same remote relays also have Google/Alexa functionality (Wifi as well - just for wank value)
    So all up this means there are multiple layers of protection - obviously not just the physical FOB presence. Two levels of immobilisation - on both ignition and primary power source. GPS tracking. And Alexa/remote shut-0ff functionality.
    I have a manual ignition toggle switch going in in place of a physical key (and simple two-step activation process - with the fighter trigger cover - like this, but I have purchased mine in carbon fibre already https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/accessories/switches/aircraft-style-switch-cover-red.html)

    I will post pictures when complete - I'm waiting for the last of the ignition system to arrive (the fobs and receivers)
    The reason I am thinking of going down this path is to create a pure keyless system, that doesn't rely on a NC relay to maintain ignition - simply I don't want to have a relay fail, say, mid corner, and lose all power.... that could be painful.
    Having a basic hard wired and safe-against-being-bumped kill switch alleviates that.
    Having the remote system allows for the additonal functionality, extra protection and just plain old "because I can" value.

    Cosmetically, asides of the absence of a key, and a funky carbon fibre switch cover for an additional kill-switch - there will be nothing else visible that might give it away.

    So sanity check guys - what have I missed/not considered/etc?
    Its my first Honda, first VFR - so I've done nothing to it in any way than sheer basics/essentials.

    I will be swapping the existing 30-40% worn Battlax BT021 out for Michelin Road Pilot 5's later in the year, but before winter here (April)

    Have I missed anything?
    Is there anything else you can think of with your collective VFR experience?

    Cheers
    Paul
     
  2. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    truly ingenious boggery, but 3 minutes ?? ride a pedal bike to work , as that sort of travel isn't good for an engine.
     
  3. KiwiRC36Fan

    KiwiRC36Fan New Member

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    I fully agree squirrelman... hence the need for a decent warm-up... and besides, I like to announce my arrival at work as I enter the basement carpark!!
     
  4. KiwiRC36Fan

    KiwiRC36Fan New Member

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    oh, and I might be slightly understating it, for the purpose of effect. I could possibly make it in 3 minutes if I ignore street signs, and advisories like traffic lights, etc.

    Plus its a much longer ride home... and uphill in both directions
    And a peddle-bike through the summer snow is just hard-going
     
  5. upwinger

    upwinger New Member

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    I too love the sound of these beautiful machines... I have a full Akropovic Ti exhaust and its not too obtrusively loud, just Goldilocks right!
    My bike came well sorted with a bunch of bits transferred over from an RC51 that you might find interesting for your project.
    The RC51 oil cooler is a nice mod, as well as the RC51 voltage regulator, mounted on the triple clamps for better air cooling.
     
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  6. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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    Replace coolant hoses may be a good step if not already done.
     
  7. KiwiRC36Fan

    KiwiRC36Fan New Member

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    Ahhh yes, good point!!!
    I'll add it to the list... the braided hoses get fitted tomorrow, then I've kinda settled on Pirelli Angel GT's for the rubber... unless someone has good reason to convince me of something else?
     
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