1986 VF500F fuel line issues

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by ron.cieri.313, Feb 21, 2011.

  1. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Er, no to the first question which is probable why its not working?

    I think I got the spring right...flaming inferno = bad thing, got that :)
     


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  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    vacuum line must be connected unless you have disabled the vacuum portion of the petcock.

    As designed, the cranking engine creates vacuum which pulls on the diaphram and allows fuel to flow. If the bike falls over and stalls, or sits in the garage with a stuck float, the lack of vacuum allows the spring to close the diaphram and fuel is shut off preventing flaming inferno.

    Some find the system problematic or the diaphram can fail so they disable the system.
     


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  3. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Ahhhh, thanks tinkerW....I've only worked on 70's Honda and I'm like why do they have this diaphram thingy on this petcock?!

    I have not checked for the connecting nipple on the cylinder head...is it pretty self evident where it is?
     


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  4. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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  5. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Look where the cabs attach to the cylinder heads. I think it's the forward cylinder on the side closest to the petcock. Should be a vacuum nipple sitting there.
     


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  6. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    also, with fuel petcock set to reserve position, I THINK vacuum is not needed for fuel to flow. Am not certain. Might be good for you to check it out and try especially if your carbs are empty. don't want to waste battery charge cranking over the motor waiting for the carbs to fill up.
     


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  7. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    k, thx again...its funny...i read through the thread u referenced and there is an additional link embedded in the thread that describes stalling issues just like the po said he has experienced....evidence seems to be pointing to this as the basic or at least, one of the basic problems with this bike...if I'm lucky, I will hear the motor start after rectifying this issue one way or another.
     


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  8. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    She's alive!

    Starts right up and is below 30 degrees here.

    Now, i face the oil leak problem...the oil seal behind the drive spockets is leaking alot...please tell I do NOT have to take out the engine to fix...will start a new thread on this.
     


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  9. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    Glad to hear you got it running!

    Are you sure that it's the countershaft seal leaking? The clutch pushrod seals are known to leak on the 500's. Either way the correct way to replace the seal is to remove the engine and split the cases. There is a technique to replace the pushrod seal without splitting the cases but most of the time doesn't work, so if you choose to try it plan on a couple of attempts.

    Good luck!
     


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  10. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Yes, it is definitely the countershaft seal :( ...and she sound so great. I have split the cases (twice) on my CB750 but not really looking forward to it...eventhough I luv wrenching.

    The leak is pretty strong...right from the top of the inner diameter of the seal. I had read on the sohc forum off drilling a hole and screwing in a screw to get leverage to pull out the seal but if even if that works on a 750, the seal on this 500 looks a little more complex...I'm really hoping for something other ideas? but, have you split the cases on this bike before?
     


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  11. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    I don't think that would work on the 500. The seal is set in a groove pretty well. Might be worth a try though, what do you have to lose? You already have a leaking seal that needs replaced.


    More times than I can count.......
     


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  12. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Well, it doesn't seem very likely to get the countershaft seal out without splitting the cases after a few futile hours with various assortment of picks...so sanity (if you can call it that) finally rules the day...time to prep the garage for engine removal and splittin...oh and her are a few pics of my bike before I start disassembling

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


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  13. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    You didn't believe us - and the pictures I provided in your countershaft seal thread? :confused:
     


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  14. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Good luck with the replacement. Keep the FSM handy!
     


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  15. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Sorry TinkerW, I didn't want to believe...and yes, everything by the good book now, the FSM.

    I must say, she strips down pretty easy, at least so far (fngers x'd)
     


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  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    engine comes out on the 500 like a dream. Can have an engine out and back in within 2 hours.

    Splitting the engine is where the fun ends in my book. Keep snapping pictures and you can do your own writeup thread on countershaft seal replacement.
     


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  17. ron.cieri.313

    ron.cieri.313 New Member

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    Okay...just actually finished taking some reference photos for myself...will start another thread...what makes the "splitting" part hard on the 500?...or just a general pain in the butt?
     


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  18. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I haven't split a 500. only a 3rd gen 750. Just a general pain in the ass.
     


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  19. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    +1, a thread on this would be very helpful for other owners who encounter this issue.
     


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