1984 Honda vfr750 interceptor $2,500 - just listed on FB MP - Daytona

We didn't receive updates like that that corrected errors. If there were mid cycle updates to a model, but weren't substantial enough to warrant a whole new SM, they would issue some stickers for the cover and affected pages with addendums.

The RC36 VFR and CBR600F2 were good examples of that. And they would release quite a few years later new SMs that incorporated the sticker placement and language exactly. Pretty sure the 500 got a whole new SM printed from the get go, that still had the same previous errors.

But I never got any updates or revisions that corrected errors or differences from the fiche.

We would get Service Bulletins that would address some things, but they weren't incorporated into the SMs and they weren't about SM mis-information per se. They were stored in a SB Binder.

 

Good afternoon everyone!

I was finally able to get the carbs back on last night but it was a battle.

For now I'm running a fuel bottle directly into the carbs. I just haven't run the fuel line from the carbs to the pump yet, that's all. And I haven't got a tank set up for her yet but that will happen as soon as I'm satisfied she's ready.

She started right up and seemed to run smoothly - except for a very high idle. Despite trying to adjust the idle knob under the carbs.

I think it has to do with the throttle/cables because the throttle was super stiff and wouldn't snap back on it's own after I got the carbs installed.

I fiddled with the adjustment holder bracket as much as I could just in case it somehow got tweaked during the carb install but that didn't do anything.

I looked as hard as I could to see if any of the cables got misaligned but again it seems to be OK.

The throttle was working perfectly after I re-attached the cables and also just before finishing the last "push in" for the insulators.

Seems like the next step would be to detach the cables and check that the carb throttle wheel etc. was working properly as well as check the cables while detached. Not sure if I can do that without taking the carbs back off.

For now I'm working on the rear brake caliper. After lifting the rear wheel up I confirmed that wheel was hard to spin so going to address that brake first and then go to the front wheel and check those brakes.




In the video below you can hear the high idle and then at the end of the video I am turning the hand throttle down using a little force.

 

When you state 'turning the hand throttle down using a little force'- is the throttle tube not snapping closed when released?

 

Correct.

 

Chk. throttle tube for damage, or debris, grip glue, or other contaminants on handlebar end.

 

OK I will but......why was it working so smoothly (including snapping back) before I finished setting the last carb into it's insulator......and then wasn't?

In other words....everything was working right until I finished setting the last carb in. I didn't put any force on the hand grip.

 

Without being there it's hard to say. Could one or both cables be frayed & hanging in their sheaths? Are you certain they are routed correctly, with no kinks? Have you disassembled the throttle tube holder & inspected the cable ends? If you remove the cables from the carbs can you manually operate the throttle it's full range easily?

 

Upon further reflection....seems like I should be able to remove the cables from their clamps but not remove the ends from the wheel.

Then test and see if I have proper movement.

This will allow me to verify the wheel is operating properly.

And if so......then the issue has to be something with the cable or clamps.

 

Looks like I'm pulling the carbs back off tomorrow, checking the throttle functionality, and then re-installing.

I disconnected the two cables and they are both working freely so it has to be the way the carbs were installed. Maybe I don't have everything on evenly - which wouldn't surprise me given how much I had to fight it.

It's OK - I want this to be working properly. The good news is I already did the carb service so that's out of the way.

More good news is the rear brake caliper is working EXCELLENT now! And the fronts are fine - I raised up the front wheel and she's spinning nice and easy.

The clutch is the only thing that might need some work - maybe the slave cylinder - we'll see. I'm not worried about it. I have so much confidence now in myself in doing the hydraulic work I don't even need to look at a service manual!

I'm done for today. Going to relax the rest of the evening - watch some basketball - whatever.

Despite this setback, I feel OK with things. That engine sounds great and I'm looking forward to letting the old girl stretch her legs a bit, once we finish getting her sorted.....

 

i would have recommended removing the return cable from the carb as a test.

 

Both cables were removed and then moved freely......gotta be the carb throttle......thanks!

 

Carb throttle?

 

when u did the rear brake, did you clean and grease this sleeve ?

 

The moving parts on the carb cluster that react when the throttle cables are attached to them and the throttle is revved by the right hand.....

Yes I did. Cleaned it up real good first. Good write up on brake caliper service on the V4Dreams website.

You'd be proud of me. That brake caliper is working perfectly!

 

Had a few extra minutes so went out and popped the carbs back off. The issue was on the carbs....and as I was fiddling with it trying to see what was hung up....whatever caused the issue went away and now its working as it should now - whew!

Tomorrow I will reinstall and try not to muck it up!

 

Finally got around to getting the title transferred and registered yesterday. Carbs not back on yet. Waiting for OEM boot shipment from Partzilla.

 

Happy Saturday all!

Been a few weeks.........I needed some time off to reset my mindset on getting the carbs back on after 3 unsuccessful attempts.

In the interim I obtained a set of OEM insulators and clamps.

Then read and listened some more to those providing input and advise.

Today was the big day and guess what.

Bastards pretty much slid right in this time!

I will share more later but here's how I did it.

Set insulators in the sun to get warm/hot.
Letting all clamps out to the end of the range so nut barely on.
Red rubber grease smeared inside insulators.
Setting the bank on with fronts sitting on top of and barely seated in their insulators.
Tilting the rear insulators at an angle while they still sat on their intakes and.....making sure the tops are just inside the insulator.
Make sure all 4 are lined up....then gently working them downward with some force until they slide in.
I did use the special insulator tool just once, Capt!

And Bob's your uncle!

I just tightened the clamps and am going for a bike ride. Should have her running later today and will post again with pics and video.

THANK YOU to ALL - I'm beyond stoked right now!!!

 

This part is what worked for me.