I'm short of 16000 miles on the 8th gen by 50 miles. My local Honda dealer quoted me $1000 in labor alone-no fucking way! Armed with my genuine Honda workshop manual, and some OEM parts inbound from Partzilla I've decided to bite the bullet and do the valve inspection myself. This is not going to be a step by step guide, but more of an overview and my experience of doing the job. My task for today was to strip the bike down to removing the cylinder head covers so next weekend I plan to do the inspection. Already I've found the Honda manual is wanting in a few of the steps just to get to this stage. Removing all the fairings took me 40 minutes-pretty straightforward, you might end up ruining a couple of the plastic fasteners depending on how they age harden, but they're easy to replace. The fuel tank was a bit of a pain, namely removing the Fuel Pump 3P connector. My photo doesn't show it well, but trying to figure out how to unclip the connector was a royal pain in the ass. I found it has to be disconnected rearward, so I removed the bolts at the rear of the tank. This allowed me to lift the tank at the rear and disconnect the P3 lead. The quick connect fitting and other required hoses were very straightforward. Removing the tank took me 35 minutes. Oh look no airbox. Following the instructions in the manual was straightforward, but the gray intake solenoid valve 2P connector was fiddly along with the vacuum hose next to it (gray connector to the right of the throttle intakes). The manual directs you to remove the IAT sensor 2P connector (gray connector to the bottem left of the photo)-looking all over the airbox I couldn't find it. After removing the 8 screws that secure it I carefully raise the lower airbox assembly only to discover said connector is connected underneath it! Thanks Honda-would have been nice if you explained where it lived as the picture in the manual is inconclusive. This task took me 30 minutes. Removing the rear cylinder head cover requires the direct ignition coils which are hidden under this rubber cover that the manual doesn't direct you to remove, to be removed. All the breather pipes and the PAIR solenoid are easy to remove as are the direct ignition coils. Once all this is removed you will have access to remove the cylinder head cover-or so I thought. This is the rear/right cylinder head cover bolt. Because I didn't have a recessed 10mm wrench, or 1/4" drive universal joint and socket, a trip to Home Depot was required. Once obtained I could remove the bolt and the cover without too much issue. The front cylinder head cover requires removal of the upper radiator front its mounts but no disconnection of the coolant hoses, and the radiator stay. You have to remove the horn, and CPK sensor 2P connection, and direct ignition coils. What makes this job more painful than it should is a rubber cover (see top of removed airbox photo) that protects some wiring and the EFI system-the manual makes no mention of its removal, and looking at it has PITA written all over it. However you can move the cover around to put tools on the cylinder head cover bolts. So the covers are off, looking the engine over I was looking for my camchain tensioners. The front was easy to find, and accessible for the tensioner stopper tool I have coming-Where's the rear tensioner? I was able to partially eyeball it and realized I will have to remove the right footpeg hanger, and rear brake master cylinder reservoir, heat shield. This allows me to swing the assembly away to use the tensioner stopper tool for when I do the rear cylinders. View attachment 86296 Total time disassembling the bike run me about 3-3.5 hours. This is my first time doing this task as a home mechanic without any formal training. The OEM manual is good, but not perfect. I swear to god the technical writer of this document assumed the engine would be removed from the frame. Next week is when the fun starts. My plan is to do the rear cylinders first, followed by the front. If anyone has any pointers or corrections to anything I've written please let me know, I'll accept any help I can get. Please Lord, do not let me fuck this up! UPDATE Number 1: Started on the rear cylinders today with the number 3 cylinder. Following the instructions I aligned the timing marks at 3, checked TDC then installed my cam chain tensioner stopper tool. The one I was sold looks different from the manual, and it didn't appear to work, but closer inspection revealed all is good, just a dumbass moment on my part. I was able to remove the cams without too much effort. Identifying the VTEC buckets was easy as they stand noticeably prouder of the normal valve buckets. Installing the stopper pins (special tool) was simple to do, one pin per VTEC bucket. You remove the VTEC springs (see photo) then re-insert the buckets. Re-installing the cams and aligning the marks was a royal pain-my technique and fiddling ate up time and my patience at times. Aligning the exhaust cam mark is harder as the RE mark is hard to see, I used a sharpie to mark the opposite side. Even so many curse words were said as I tried to reinstall the camchain over the cams, and still keep everything aligned properly. My perseverance paid off, and all was good, until I installed the camshaft holder plate A, out of sequence from camshaft holders (2) B. After fixing that error it was time to check the valve clearances. I decided to use my feeler gauges as a go/no go gauge. For example the non VTEC inlet valve clearance is 0.008" +- 0.001", so that means a 0.007" should fit, and the 0.009" shouldn't. Anything to the contrary means I'll be buying a shim. I had another brain fart moment because I forgot which valves were the VTEC ones, fortunately a close visual inspection helped me out. Using the feeler gauges on the central exhaust valves was a major hassle-it didn't help that my feeler gauges were a bit wider than necessary. After numerous checks and rechecks all were within tolerance with exception of an exhaust valve that was a little on the tight side. Fortunately it was a normal valve so the shim is cheap to replace except my local Honda dealer doesn't have it in stock-what a farce as this shim is used on multiple bikes in the Honda range. So special order it is, and the bike is down for about a week. In all this was another 3 hours of my time, but I'm learning. More to follow. UPDATE Number 2: Got my shim today so I was able to install it, and then reassemble the rear cams. Lubed the cams and buckets made sure I didn't screw anything up during installation of the cams-I had to adjust the position of the cams on the camchain to ensure the proper timing marks aligned with the top of the cylinder head. I torqued everything down, but was not 100% sure the rear timing mark "RE" lined up. There I was trying my best eyeball the lines from above the cylinder head when I discovered this hole in the frame: You can just see the top of the cylinder head which made checking the marks a snap-what an idiot I am. Fortunately everything was lined up properly, I put on the top camchain guide (not shown in the picture) Honda decrees 15ft/lb, for the bolts but I'm not buying a 6mm diameter fastener going into an aluminium part with that torque setting. If I strip it, that means a new cylinder head assembly, will use blue Loctite instead - now onto the front cylinders. Based on my experience with the rear, the front cams came out quite easily. I ID'd the VTEC valves, drew a picture for reference. I removed the VTEC buckets and springs, put in the stopper pins, reinserted the buckets and reinstalled the cams. I thought I was doing quite well until I noticed when I went to check the clearances the front cam didn't look right-I installed it incorrectly. I had a friend over who was interest in the work I was doing and unfortunately he distracted me. I uninstalled the cams and reinstalled them properly - now time to check the clearances. All my clearances were good with exception of the number 4 cylinder VTEC exhaust valve. I could barely put in a 0.011" feeler gauge which put it at the bottom limit of the range. So, I'll be ordering a new VTEC bucket which runs about $40. Knowing that my local Honda dealer will not have the part in stock means I'll be waiting about another 5 days - oh well. So this was another 3 hours of my time today. Look forward to getting the bike completed in just over a week's time.