Must be a 1200, eh ?? :grumpy: You're far from the first with that same issue.
I think Cadbury has it spot on. The trouble isn't in the lever or mc.
There's a big difference between cleaning carbs and cleaning carbs properly and thoroughly. Whenever you find battery issues, the charging system...
Many shifting problems like your are caused by a hydraulic problem or air in the system which causes clutch drag, that is, it's not fully...
Make sure the oil isn't over-filled ! :eek-new:
Agree with the above !! :disturbed: Wheel alignment problem. A new sprocket ?? How long has it been in use ?
Your throttle plates may need a proper synch to eliminate the rumble around idle.
Run away; that bike is FINISHED !!
Shocks go bad with accumulated miles, not years.
Changing sparkplugs is what i'd try first. :witless:
The bike should never be reaching higher temps as long as it's moving, only in stop-and-go traffic.
Be sure to give your coolant level a check UNDER THE RADIATOR CAP when engine is cool, and top up there also if necessary. :courage:
Be sure to clean the turn signal switch contacts by spraying a cleaner then a lube into the slot the button rides in, and work it in by cycling...
Headset bearings probably need tightening/adjustment. FSM periodic maintenance guide suggests that steering bearings be re-lubed and adjusted at...
I've eliminated the pump relay on all my Hondas cuz it's not reliable. Just instal the jumper wire and forget about relay problems. Faster...
You have another issue. No fuel pump or pump relay problem will cause the engine not to crank over (before it starts).
TOE CUTTER is your man !!!!!! Corona is his drink. :drinker:
It IS the switch. Relays never cause your problem. Broken pivot point the START button moves on or weak or broken return spring.
Raeva mi verker !! Bigger isn't always better. :distrust: What are u using for f ront wheel ?
Those boots show the unmistakable effects of a slightly-botched installation, which tore out bits of the sealing lips. Replace them with new as no...
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