the less oil you add the less you need to knife edge the cranck to stop parista loss due to friction on da crank
OMG LMAO you idiot
next time you drop the biatch....check it then dufuss
then, if my fellow members concur....pull the relays
retard lmfao
let us know which fuse is blowing, a through g. that will clarify for me as I am trying to hard to appear smart again as I have been told by a...
fuse f is totally separate
hence start button shuts off both high and low beam during crank time but on low current side
lower power side of relay(headlights) is controlled by the start button switch which is fused by g(10a)....just saying
headlight is fuse f(20a) taillight is fuse c(10a). do not chase a ghost issue
idiot :biggrin-new::biggrin-new:
tail light is a dif fuse, don't chase ghosts
just saying, will save you time
unplug your headlight relays, that way you cut the wiring harness in half. if fuse doesn't blow y then you know it is relay or wiring from relay...
I use da wifes cooking to remove rust from mine :tongue-new:
solder the connection, if ya caught it in time no issue. you can due an ohm test on the stator, but a crispy looking one may mean trouble is on...
front countershaft sprocket is worn. bad chain links also
that is safe to do
i would, you will have more room to work and brake fluid will not contact your rim then
I agree with them ^^^^^^
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