now that I've got most of my mechanical crap sorted, I can move forward to paint. I've spent a lot of time debating this one, I"m pretty happy...
the fact that it stops if you apply the rear brake, suggests you need to look at the REAR of the bike, not the front for the cause of your issue....
once they've got low compression, repairs arent worth it, unless you're mechanically skilled and have the downtime to do the work. then parts are...
you're experiencing a common problem. let the bike run in neutral at the minimum to get some oil flowing over the plates, once they break loose,...
you didnt clean the carbs properly. you need to clean EVERY passage, not just the pilot jets to get it to idle. your circuit is still partially...
sell it to me. I"ll give you $75 cash. well ok, I'd need more than that wouldnt I? its a sweet bike though, no doubt.
Got it. you guys once again were right. disassembly and cleaning the switch contacts did the trick. nice and bright contacts=nice and bright light.
yup! thanks for the hint. I totally forgot about a pair of grounds on the tail, connected those, works fine again. thank you.
this is a pretty weird one that I'm not making ANY sense of. my tail light, and tag light are out, the fan isnt working at all(hardwired on)...
tested with a known good bulb, an HID kit, and a few others, nothing gets power. at all. its like the switch is DOA, but I'm not sure thats the...
I'm stumped. all the connections are good, clean and solid, crank thebike, nothing. high beam comes on without fail, but low is DOA and nonop....
and some general mechanical knowledge. if the carbs are partly off the bike, simply reassemble them. if need be I can provide pictures...
anyone know if there is a second gear available from another transmission that I can install into my 84 VF700? I have TWO motors, both have bad...
This is common knowledge. one cannot say the speedometer on any modern vehicle is actually close to accurate on account of the reading being...
ok, there is a Chad Vader series on here too, its HILLARIOUS.
the old school method is pretty failproof. however I like the mityvac because it REALLY speeds the procedure up. and simplifies it. a lot.
in the UK you're close to the sea usually, its often damp or very wet, and rust/corrosion are HUGE issues.
gear whine is simple. you have gear drive cams in some of them, which make gear noise, that in my eyes sounds BEAUTIFUL. m friend's RC51 does...
definitely foolish to start restoring without verifying that the engine is in good shape. I recall these and most other V4 engines of the era had...
they're 7/8" diameter. measure em for length. grips are relatively universal for bikes.
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