OK, figured it out: [img] This is the circuit board behind the speedo. Note the resistor burned to a crisp. At what point is Shorai on the hook...
So the sensor I got didn't fix the issue. The output of the pink sensor wire is nowhere near the FSM specs. 1.15v at most, never near the 4.7 to...
The sensor tested bad with no output voltage to the cluster when the wheel is rotated. Found a used sensor on eBay last night (listing called it a...
So I finally got to go out on a ride today. Everything seemed to be fine, except that my speedometer and odometer are apparently DOA now. At least...
If you promise to post autopsy pics and results here, I'll send it to you north of the border. Email me at krazykarguy@hotmail.com
I searched for hours trying to find a technique to test a CDI. I found nothing other than, "install a known good unit and if the problem...
Do you mean check the pinouts on the good and bad units? No...
Bike is running again...
Kennybobby was right. The original CDI was shorted internally. I got the new CDI in the mail yesterday and got it on the bike during my lunch...
No reply from Shorai. Go figure.:rant: I just ordered a used CDI from a reputable cycle salvage place in Michigan. They had a video of the bike...
I just contacted Shorai to see if they might assist financially with a CDI replacement.
Everything that I have read suggests that a dead CDI is a paperweight. Like I mentioned above, I did test the wiring harness going to the CDI. All...
That was my thought as well. Too bad that it's: 1.) relatively expensive 2.) a risk buying a used electrical part 3.) can't be tested to confirm...
I've already gone through 5 lead acid batteries in 7 years, I was intrigued by the longevity and cranking power claims of the LiFePo4 battery....
This is for testing the wiring, not the unit itself. I have already confirmed (independent of the manual) all of the continuity bits of that test....
Also, how to decipher the code on my control unit? Mine says: MZ7A EC 701D 5614 I have seen EC and AC on the first line, I know to avoid ones...
I'm pretty sure it's the control unit. When the control unit is removed from the circuit and the fuse is plugged in the bike cranks really strong....
I tried the fuse to jump the fuel pump leads. It did not blow the jumper fuse when turned on. I checked across the fuse terminals with everything...
Not the fuel pump. It runs when jumped. What now? I checked continuity from the control unit to all four coils. Resistance tested across...
The pump may be constantly running when the motor is on, but the contacts are not constantly touching when current is applied. Watch the video in...
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