Wheel conversions for 1986-1987

... a question...

We have a lot of older Triumphs here (by older - I mean 1993-95 vintage Trophie 900 etc) - these came with 17" fronts and 18" rears - they are really nice looking tri/six spoke designs that have a look similar to the 86 VFR wheels.

Sizes are: front 17 x 3.50 & rear 18 x 4.60 (Front Tyre 120/70 VR17 & Rear Tyre 160/60 VR18)



Would the be a good choice to avoid geometry changes (drop forks 1/2") and retain looks? - or, would I still be stuck for tyre choice/radials vs crossply?

These seem to be the only 4 choices for the rear:
Dunlop Roadsmart 2
Michelin Pilot Road 2
Pirelli Angel GT
Michelin Pilot Road 3


The 91-94 model Trophy 1200's had 120/70 ZR17 & Rear Tyre 180/55 ZR17 (cant seem to find these actual rim specs either atm...) - would these be better?
View attachment 32186


A quick mock up...

 

Just reading this sticky as a new member, and I decided to take a quick look at ebay and found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-90-HONDA...ORS-/331535468389?hash=item4d310dc765&vxp=mtr

I'm not interested in it at this time, so I thought I would share! For $100 seems like a pretty good deal to get 17" on the front of your bike!

 

There isn't much reason to get a narrow 17" as you'd still be limited to a small number of bias ply tires. If you wanna do a wheel swap, you should get a 17 that is wide enough for a radial tire. Then you'll have a wide range of tires to choose from.

Plus that orange rim is bent. I'd pass for sure on that one. You'll feel a tiny wobble or flat spot and you'll want to ditch that rim for a straight one. Been there and done that.

 

That's exactly right. I often have to remind people that a 17in wheel is not (necessarily) magic - it's the fact that you can get modern radial tires that makes the difference. The only way to get there is with a 3.5in wide wheel in this case a CBR600F2.

 

My wheel conversion. (Admittedly not YOUR wheel conversion.)

 

My rear wheel conversion accommodates a 6-inch tire. I could run a 190. Still, I ride a 180. Works great. Nimble.

 

Wrong section. This is for the 86-87 bikes.

 

Couple of wheel questions re a 1984 VF1000F


1) anyone put VF1000R wheels on an F?
2) anyone put the wheels from a CX500/650 Turbo on an F? It looks like the same design that was put on the F in some other markets; but I don't know if it's an exact match.

Edit: brain fade-- the CX has different sized rims.

So I guess I'd be limited to sourcing them from one of the countries where they came stock on the VF.


tia,
Walter

 

R and F wheels are a direct interchange, no modifications needed.

 

Best news I got today.

thanks again.
Walter

 

I recently picked up a completely stock '87 VFR700. Already have a nice set of front & rear F2 rims. If I don't modify the rear shock / linkages, what are your thoughts as to me using 160/70-17 rear and 120/60-17 front tires? My thinking is that those sizes would be closer to the OEM 16/18" rim diameters. Appreciate your advise.

 

If you simply install the

52470-ML7-000
ARM ASSY., SHOCK ABSORBER
(The piece the lower shock bolts to)

From the 86, then it is compensated. They are plentiful and easy to install. Then you can run the common and easy to find 160/60.

If you are getting ready to do a wheel swap, you've got some work ahead of you and this is probably the easiest part.

120/60 or 120/70 both good choices. You simply slide the forks up in the triples a bit to compensate for the new 17" diameter.

 

Thanks so much for the info. I wasn't aware of that there was a difference in shock linkages between thje '86-'87 models. I'm assuming that the '86 linkage increases the rear ride hieght a bit, correct?

 

Correct. The 87 shock is 10mm longer than 86 and they changed that linkage piece to compensate.

Friend's 87 with a 17" swap and it worked great. Conversely, one of my 86 with a Euro 17" rear VFR wheel, I put an 87 shock on.

 

Thanks again for the info regarding the linkage. I did acquire one from an '86 for my '87, and will install when I do the F2 swap. I've found some info here regarding spacers, but some of it conflicts. I now have a set of F2 rims, and a new rear rotor designed to fit a Triumph Bonnieville (diameter same as stock VFR, bolt pattern same as F2 rim), so plan to use the OEM VFR rear caliper and arm. Does anyone sell spacer kits for this job? If not, any solid source of info for the spacer dimensions?

 

Spacer info is right here in my Sticky:

https://vfrworld.com/threads/rear-brake-options-for-rc24-26-wheel-swaps.59847/

 

I'm just surprised (and kinda confused) that nobody's actually made a video (IE, youtube or something) to detail the wheel conversion process and/or compiled a comprehensive parts list required for this project.

 

I essentially did if you read everything in my Brake sticky. Between that and the Wheel Conversion sticky, all the info is there. But nobody wants to take the time to write out a parts list and game plan for themselves before starting.

Part of the problem is there are many paths to a very similar result. Interest is waning. And everyone is gung-ho until they realize that there is some real custom machining involved in every scenario. There is not a "bolt on" path. Then they fade away, never to be heard from again. Seen it DOZENS of times.

 

As to F2 front rim modification,, Planning to have a machinist remove 6mm of material at both sides of the rotor mounting points. Is it problem to remove the disc locating "tabs"? Thinking that the shouldered mounting bolts are what actually hold the disk and keep it centered, but I could be wrong. Thinking that if the tabs are machined away during the removal of the 6mm, it would better assure flatness of the mounting surface(s). Thanks again.

 

Eliminate the tabs for sure. They are only rough locators when you plop the disc down. The shouldered bolts locate the disc as you thought. And even with the tabs, you can move the disc around a bit on the shoulders of the bolts before final torquing.

Be sure to actually measure the two wheels. The ones I have measured have been 11mm difference (pretty damn sure) - 5.5mm off each side. I can remeasure (with calibrated calipers) if you would like a sanity check.

.5mm isn't much I know. Perhaps also note if your caliper brackets are perfectly centered on the stock wheel / discs, or if they are off to one side or another a bit to know if you want/need to compensate.