Y2K clutch bleeding issue?????

I replaced the chain and sprockets on my 2000 VFR. Per the Honda manual, I drained the clutch fluid to disassemble the front sprocket cover. Now, I have no clutch. I have bleed almost 2 full reservoir's out of it and no change. I haven't gotten any bubbles since the little bit I got in the beginning. I do not have a speed bleeder or any other special tools? Just simple bleeding of squeeze 10-15 times, hold, bleed, close bleed valve, release and repeat. Nothing.

Any ideas? Thanks and ride safe.

Mark
Never Give Up!

 

Try reverse bleeding, upwards, not downwards.
Push the brake liquid to the slave cylinder through the bleeding valve with something like large syringe.

 

Did you bleed the banjo bolt at the master? if not you will never get air out of there without.

 

Ok. First, never bleed any fluid out when changing sprockets - just carefully take the clutch cover off and set it aside while changing the sprocket, then carefully put back - don't touch the clutch lever and no problems.
When bleeding the clutch, 1) open the bleeder screw 2) squeeze clutch lever in 3) close bleeder screw 4) release clutch lever. Repeat this process over and over, keeping fluid in the reservoir until lever is firm.

 

I'm with Chesting here... screw draining the fluid out of the clutch line!

There is some good advise in this thread. Many times I have made friends feel stupid when they ask for my help and I pumped a clutch or brake and then cracked the banjo fittings. An incredible amount of air can hide in these things.

You may also want to check the seal on the back side of the clutch slave cylinder. While this may sound stupid, while your at it, make sure you reinstalled the rod going from the slave cylinder to the clutch basket.

 

I'm with the rest. I've delt with brakes and clutched on cars, dirt bikes, and motorcycles. Those banjo bolts can be your worst enemy when it comes to bleeding. Just make sure you repeat the process, it should work.

Did you replace any of the banjo bolts? If so, they might be the wrong one(s), and the holes don't line up. I've had that happen before.

 

I did the exact same thing when I was changing my front sprocket, and it really pissed me off that the manual says to drain the clutch line when you really don't have to. I should have gone with my instincts and not drained the clutch fluid, but I guess I know for next time.

The way to get pressure back is to take the slave cylinder and press it in with your fingers a couple of times to get the air bubbles back up and into the master cylinder. I am sure that's your problem, because that was my issue, too, after draining. Once you do that, you should have pressure back in the line. I did the same, and it worked like a charm.

Good luck,
Mel

 

How do you bleed the banjo bolt? I can imagine it, but, want to get it right and easy. Thanks and ride safe.

Mark

 

That's pretty easy. All you do is loosen it, and pull the lever. When you get hydraulic fluid coming out around the bolt, it's bled. Have you tried manually depressing the slave cylinder with your fingers, yet? Not to reiterate, but I am almost positive that's your problem.

 

I will try that today. I've been gone all week with work. Thank you to all for your suggestions. I'll post the fix when it is done. Ride safe.

Mark
Never Give Up!

 

I took the assembly off again and pushed the slave cylinder back in a couple of times. I got a few big bubbles. I re-installed it all, bled it once and fired it up. It's better than before I drained the fluid for the sprocket install. Thank you to all for your suggestions. Mel, you are genius. Ride safe.

Mark
Never Give Up!

 

I'm glad that worked out for you. After days of playing around with the clutch line myself, it was such a wonderfull feeling to depress the slave cylinder and have all those air bubbles come out the top. I'm sure you'd agree. Have fun with your new chain and sprockets. I don't know if I was tripping, but my bike felt more responsive after that bit of maintenance.

 

Mine should feel a little more spry as I went up 2 teeth in the rear. I'm also putting in new brake pads, air filter, plugs, and Pilot Sports (ZG double bubble too). I bought it fairly cheap ($3900) last fall with 9500 miles on the clock. It's in pretty good shape but needed a little freshening. I may service the fork and shock too, but, otherwise, she's good to go soon. Ride safe and thanks again.

Mark
Never Give Up!

 

Top tip for bleeding brakes

Top tip for bleeding brakes (Non-linked anyway), turn the brake lever adjuster all the way out to get maximum movement of the piston in the master cylinder. Maximum travel means no air pockets and a full delivery of fluid. Pump the lever to get some build up and then release via a half open nipple to retain some back pressure. Close nipple and release the lever fully for the recovery stroke. Works for me but I did have to learn the hard way.