What type of stock chain is used on the VFR800?

My 1999 5th Gen VFR needs a new chain. This is not surprising as I just clicked past 15,000 miles, and every chain I've ever had on a bike needed replacing right around 15,000-16,000 miles. One thing you guys should know is that I always buy OEM Honda parts as replacement for parts. The only exceptions I make are tires, a rear shock, and chain. When I've had to replace chains in the past on my CBRs, given that Honda used endless loop chains on their CBRs that were installed when the swingarm was installed, I used to replace these stock chains with the DID ERV chains which were the only ones I found that gave comparable life of 16,000 miles. This should be not be surprising as they were designed for endurance racing.

Looking at the OEM Honda parts fiche, it appears that one can buy an OEM Honda chain kit, which includes a drive sprocket, driven sprocket, and a chain. I note that there appears to be a rivet-type master link that is included with the chaiin. Does anyone know...is this the stock chain that comes on the bike? Or is the stock chain an endless chain that Honda puts on at the time of manufacture, while the swingarm is being installed? The chain in the chain kit is a master link type, but I want to be sure that it will still get the life of the OEM chain. Does anyone know if this master link chain is in fact the original OEM chain used at the time of manufacture?

I will be replacing sprockets if req'd with the stock OEM sprockets, so the replacement chain must have the correct dimensions to accomodate OEM sprockets. What are the dimensions of the stock chain? Is it a 530, or 520 chain?

Thanks in advance,
PC

 

Thanks, Reg.
I will be sticking with the stock sprockets because the rubber piece in the drive sprocket makes the chain run notably quieter. I will call my dealer tomorrow when they open and ask to speak to a mechanic about the Honda chain kit, but it seems like a safe bet. Most Honda chains are made by DID.

 

95% of chain driven Honda's use DID O-Ring as OEM, so if you get a Genuine Honda Parts chain & sprocket kit, it will be a DID or a DID with Honda or no markings at all.

Every single aftermarket chain you will find will have a master link of some type. If they make an endless aftermarket chain, I haven't seen or heard of it. Lots say a clip master link is a one way ticket to a closed casket but I've run one on both Hawk GT's I've owned with zero complications. I would run one on my VFR with no worries.

KC-10 FE out...
lane:

 

I have a fair bit of experience in this area...

Over the years I have used almost exclusively RK chains, with NOTHING but positive experiences.
Not knocking DID or other brand, but I know and can attest to RK's.
For sprockets I generally try to go with AFAM, another "known quantity" for me; absolute quality.

I have used RKs & AFAMs on many bikes including:
'87 GSXR750 ridden VERY hard on Autobahns, Nurburgring, Spa etc. - average cruise speed upwards of 140mph, and all sorts of nasty weather.
'86 FJ1200 - Heavy, powerful and immense TORQUE; ridden very hard in all weather, much of it 2-up and accelerating as hard as possible.
Also quite a few other bikes, in all weather.

EVERY ONE of those chains has used a clip-type Master Link (properly installed with closed end facing forwards).
NEVER a problem.
In the two above examples both RK's went more than 40,000 miles...

I admit that I am scrupulous about proper chain maintenance.

It's actually quick, easy and fairly clean if you do it frequently:

- After a ride, spray a rag with WD-40 and wipe down the chain & rear sprocket.
NOTHING cuts through chain lube like WD-40, and it leaves a slight film to minimize gunk buildup and make it easier to remove the next time.
WD-40 WILL NOT harm O/X-rings!
Spraying the rag instead of directly onto the chain prevents overspray from getting onto the tire tread or brake rotor.
*After a ride is best; the chain will be warm, helping the chain lube to penetrate.

- After the WD-40 cleaning, wipe everything down thoroughly with a clean, dry rag to remove excess WD-40.

- Lube the chain (I like Maxima Chain Wax, it stays clean and has minimal fling) by directing the stream at the little gaps between the rollers and the sideplates.
Overspray will usually lube the O/X-rings sufficiently. If REALLY dry hit them with the lube.
Lube the top side of the bottom run of the chain; the portion that actually contacts the sprockets.
This will cause centrifugal force to force the lube into the chain, and minimize fling.

- Let the chain lube set up overnight.
Before the next ride wipe everything down with a clean, dry rag to keep things clean and minimize messy fling.

Follow this simple procedure every 300-600-odd miles, or whenever the chain starts to appear dry, and after a good rain ride, and it will be quick, simple and things will stay fairly clean.

The WD-40 cleaning should only be needed periodically.
Post-ride wipe down with a clean rag, and lubing as necessary will really minimize the work and keep things clean.

The chain should always appear new, clean, shiny, and have a slight moist gleam.
The chain is the hardest working, yet often most neglected part on a motorcycle, because people tend to shy away from dirty work, but with the above procedure it's actually quick & clean.

 

The only reasons you should need to replace your chain and or sprockets at 15k are:
1) you did a really bad job keeping the chain lubed, or
2) you like to throw money away.

The test is to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket - if you can see any daylight, replace them. Mine has 16k and there is still almost no pull at all.

 

I lube my chains every 600 miles, lubing the run as Rat has described above. I replace them when the stretch is past the service limit as indicated by the sticker on the swingarm. In my experience, this is approx. every 16,000 miles.

As for this bike, I just bought it two weeks ago, so I cannot attest to how the chain was lubed. But it is past the service limit on the sticker, so it is getting replaced.

Rat, thanks for your tips on cleaning the chain. I used AFAM sprockets when I was racing and had a good experience with them. As for my street bikes, though, I keep everything as stock as is possible or practicable, so it will be OEM Honda sprockets when the sprockets need replacing.

If Honda didn't create a flawed suspension damping design with that stupid HMAS system, I would not need to revalve the suspension (which will be done over the Christmas break).

 

1. non clip links (pressed) "ARE" much safer especially with high HP bikes & be bought @ most dealers or ordered, as well as the press tool.

2. the clip master links are good & rarely come off unless put on incorrectly or the clip comes in contact with something (like the bike parts from being lose or road debri), not recomended for racing though, when the bike is pushed harder.

3. the 530 stock size chain is beefy, heavy, & lasts longer, but most replace (especially racers) with a 520 chain & sprocket kit (less wt spins faster & slows down quicker & most racers I know of, use linkless as well).
I myself still run the 530's (sportbikes) because I have snapped chains (520's) & it was messy (my leg & bike damage)

4. lubing chains can be like another tyre thread
some say a O ring chain with it's sealed lubed links don't need it & others will say it does
My many years of experiance say's yes & no, as no to the chain & yes to the sprockets. reason is the chain links are lubed but contacts the sprockets where there is no lubrication that creates wear, lubing the sprockets lessons the wear to the spockets & the chain contact points.

5. all of my sport bikes & sport tourers have pressed llinks because I don't change the gearing (or very rarely), while my SM's/Dirtbikes/ & DualSports do have master links, only because I do have different spair chains & gearing for those bikes & I often change them for different riding areas.

hope this helps :biggrin:

p.s. my Sport Tourer bikes chains last about 15,000 miles while I'm harder on the sport bikes & strech them out by about 5000 miles more or less.

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful info on RK chains, sprockets, WD40, and all the other helpful information.

And an additional thank you all for the information about whether the stock chain is a 530 or a 520. If I decided to go with a DID ERV-series chain, that will be very helpful information.

But, with all due respect, and please don't take this the wrong way, we are getting off-topic a bit here. My question is really about whether the stock chain that comes on the bike from the showroom is an endless loop chain, or does it have a rivet-type master link (as the one in the OEM Honda chain kit does).

In other words, is the chain in this chain kit from Honda is the same chain that is installed at the factory when the bike is assembled, or a different one?

 

And here I thought I was the only one that was chain crazy. Dude are you my evil twin in disguise? Pretty much word for word in what I'd say. I too have seen 20+K on a couple of my bikes I had sold and the chains where still solid.

 

The OEM replacement chain I got from the dealer was the same chain I had stock on the VFR that came with both the clip master link & the rivit link.

That was 2 years ago, should be the same still, all you have to do is ask the Honda parts person to find out or look up :wink:

Ug,
I see a possibility of a Tyre/chain lub/ WD 40 thread start up.
I myself don't use WD-40 for a light lubricant especially where ruber is envolved. WD in WD-40 means "Water Displacer" & is closer to a solvent than a lubricant & with time "WILL" slowly distroy real rubber (not most synthetic rubber) I found the best cleaner for where rubber is envolved is oil based & that would be Kerosene, & if you nead a sprayer stick it in a reusable spray bottle.

 

According to my Clymer manual, our 5th gen uses a chain with a staked master link. Using a Honda replacement, you will need a Honda drive chain tool set (part 07HMH-MR1010B). The master link is the one with the crimped pin ends.
I still think you're wasting your time/money at 15k. That silly sticker is almost impossible to read, and I'm sure is a very inaccurate way to measure chain life.

 

Thanks, Chesthing and Taz for the info.

Regarding replacing the chain, this one is pretty rusty and is going to go.
With respect to chain stretch, I am quite confident that Honda knows what it is doing with respect to service recommendations for motorcycles.

This is a principle reason why I strongly endeavor to keep all my Honda motorcycles stock (right down to replacing fasteners and small bits with OEM parts).

My painful and expensive experiences with having to fix the modifications people have made to bikes is that many people think they know better than Honda about what works. My experience (HMAS design issues aside) inevitably has been is that if people think they know more then Honda about building motorcycles, they should get off their bikes and...think again.

This is the principle reason why my no. 1 priority for buying used motorcycles is that they are box stock.

 

Honda also recommends oil changes at what, 7500 miles? some things in the aftermarket are vastly superior to Honda parts - try a Sargent seat and a Penske or Ohlins shock instead of screwing with that Showa as an example.

 

Of course, a Penske or Ohlins shock is better than the OEM one; they can cost between 8-12% of the cost of the entire bike. Some things, like OEM shocks, are built to a price point. Simply from a business perspective, Honda can't afford to put in a shock that costs roughly 8% of the entire motorcycle and still sell it for say, $9500. The $750 Penske on my $8200 F4i costs 9.1% of the entire motorcycle...just for a shock. Of course you can make things better than stock if you throw enough money at it (and in the right way).

But I've just found that for most things, keeping the bike as stock as possible has provided me with the best results in terms of serviceability, reliability, the riding experience as a whole. And certainly pays when selling the bike.

 

I paid $770 delivered for my Penske, yeah it was expensive. To redo my stock shock w/ spring and valves would have been about half that with shipping expenses, and I would have been without a bike during that time. After discussing my options with Lindemann Engineering, I was told that the stocker would need to be rebuilt about twice as often as the Penske, and wouldnt work nearly as well. So there goes any money savings you speak of. (so long as you one intends on keeping the bike for a long time). If I ever sell the bike I'll put the old shock back on and sell the Penske for 4-5 hundred. It's a good investment.

 

I agree, Penske shocks are a good investment. This is why I said in my original post that one of the thing I will do to a bike is replace the shock (and tires). I plan to do the same for my F4i.

 

In reference to Puma Cat's original question, couldn't you simply go to your local Honda dealer and take a look at the chains installed on the new bikes sitting in the showroom. It would clear up the issue of whether the original chain is endless and also what brand name they are.

 

It's not easy to tell; a staked master link, when properly installed, looks almost exactly like an every other link on an endless chain. I would look on mine, as I am sure it is the original chain, but it is not clean enough to be able to spot, even if I could. Also, most OEM Honda chains do not have a brand name on them, even though 98% of them are made by D.I.D.

Moreover, (and not to be a smart*ss here), I can't go to my Honda dealer to find out because 5th gen Honda VFRs are no longer in production. Would that they were, though...sigh.

 

What confusion? it's not endless. Go here to order the chain/sprockets - about $200, enter the Honda tool # I gave above in the search function and order that - another $200.
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0366/swingarm/swingarm.cfm?man=ho&groupid=11730&parent=11700