What PARTS fit? Fifth generation mostly

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by daqangel, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    From reading many threads in this forum, I have been able to infer that Honda uses many common parts in their 'cycles. Of course, many of those parts differ according to year and model of bikes, however, I am wondering what parts from other Honda VFR generations, AND bike models fit the vfr 5th generation.



    ***I had a mechanic come over to help diagnose my non-starting issue and within the first 20 minutes, he narrowed it down to the ignition system. With further testing, he said my ECM is probably the culprit. He recommended changing my entire ingition system (coils, cam sensor, CPS, etc) but suggested I start with the ECM replacement.

    Now, I lost out on eBay on a good deal for an ECM of same year, and wondering if there are any ECMs from other years that may fit.

    My VFR is a 2000 model.

    Are there other parts on the CBR 600 that may work with this ailing Viffer of mine?


    Any positive input is greatly welcome.

    TIA
     


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  2. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Just wondering...did you give any consideration to the R/R being bad? This is the culprit of many problems, and sometimes leads to mistaken identity. Would hate to see you dump a bunch of coin on an ECM and related items if it happens to be the R/R.
     


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  3. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    I think the PO should start on the RR and Stator before burning his wallet.
     


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  4. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    I thought about that for sure and compared the R/R on this bike with the original one, and it seems to be the original and not the upgraded (curved finned) one.

    I am scouring the net for a decent priced upgraded R/R too. My question regarding related bike parts is part of my preparation to putting the bike back together so that I know where I can look to find what I need.


    thanks a bunch.
     


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  5. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    I am searching for how to recognize an upgraded R/R. I remember reading about getting a MOSFET one as opposed to using a computer fan to cool it. If you guys can point me in the right direction, I would be very grateful. ...meanwhile, I'm searching the forums now.

    Cheers!!!
     


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  6. ricky

    ricky New Member

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    For the upgraded mosfet r/r, my personal first choice would be: FH012, FH010 etc (example: Yamaha Shindengen FH020AA Regulator w Connectors Replaces FH012AA | eBay)
    . These are shinidigen (spelled right?) part numbers. They came in various newer bikes. Most common are yamaha r1 and zx10. Search with those part numbers on ebay and buy one of those. This won't work with the stock r/r plug on the VFR. I got my wires and connectors from easternbeaver.com. You can also get a VFRness for R1 rectifier for an easy plug and play application from wiremybike.com.


    edit: here's a cheaper one off a zx10r : 2006 2007 Kawasaki ZX10R Voltage Regulator Rectifier Works See Video | eBay

    If you search ebay for 'zx10 rectifier' or 'yamaha r1 rectifier' you should be able to find these in the $50 range. Compare the pictures to make sure you are getting the right one.

    Good Luck
     


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  7. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    Thanks very much. You made my search easier.
     


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  8. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    Apart from checking the stator for visible wear/burn, is there anything else to check for? Couldn't find anything in manual as to how to chcek for damage.

    Thanks
     


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  9. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    2 things

    (1) As your model is known for charging system issues I suggest that you start by carrying out "the drill" - to check the health of your charging system.

    - How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

    After doing the visual checks on the loom and connections, check for healthy battery volts and then move on to the static resistance tests on the RR and Stator.

    Even if the static tests on the stator come up clean you also need to do tests of the stator AC output with the engine running. Note testing the stator AC output is done with the RR disconnected (it will start and run fine just on the battery whilst you do the tests at idle and 5,000rpm). But take care not to allow the multimeter probes to create a direct cross connection between any two of the yellow wires or you can fry the stator.

    You need to test and then note down the AC volts measured across all three pairings of the yellow wires. Check the numbers are broadly similar and are within spec. NB You need to check the AC output when the stator is cold, and again as soon as possible after its been for a long hard ride so the whole thing is really hot. The insulating properties of the windings inside the stator may degrade with heat - and can potentially reverse a perfectly healthy AC Volts reading when cold to provide a full on battery drain when hot.

    (2) as for identifying other potential parts/donor bikes - one approach is to search using the part numbers not the bike model. You can usually find what SHOULD be installed on your bike using the fiches available on several Honda dealership websites - try this for instance

    David Silver Spares - Parts For Honda Motorcycles - HOME

    Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - ATV, Classic Bike, Dirt Bike Parts

    Once you know the part number (and indeed any updated part numbers where applicable) hit google /ebay/gumtree/craigslist

    Hope that helps



    SkiMad
     


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  10. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    This is "The Link".

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...how-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.html
     


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  11. taylor65

    taylor65 New Member

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    Sounds like your mechanic may not be very familiar with the vfr. Im sure he means well and is trying to help but it can get very expensive just buying parts until you figure out what is actually wrong with your bike. I have heard many times mechanics? Telling people they need this or that just for it to turn out to be something entirely different and most times something simple and cheap. If i were you i would follow the steps for checking it yourself. All it takes is about a 20 dollar multimeter. Good luck
     


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  12. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    There isn't a way that I would have been able to know where or how to hit this project if not for you guys.

    Thanks Skimad, Taylor and Pliskin
     


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  13. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    We're here to help! So even when your thread goes off topic, stick around. There are plenty of knowledgeable people on here. Got questions - ask.
     


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  14. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    Haha, I will definitely stick around....no where else to go either.


    The stator and R/R being faulty should not affect the bike starting right? It should only affect the battery staying charged since those are components of the charging system...is that correct?
     


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  15. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    Also, does the 2000-2001 have a choke cable?
    In the 98-01 service manual, I see a pic with a choke lever on the left hande bar controls. There is none on mine. This could be another clue is there is actually a choke.

    Thanks
     


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  16. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    The 1998 - 1999 have a Fast Idle Cable (it's not a choke). The 2000 - 2001 have a wax fast idle unit.

    As long as the battery has enough juice to spin the starter it should have enough to run the bike for a while.

    I just installed an R/R from a ZX-10 this weekend. Bought it off eBay and got my connectors from Eastern Beaver. My idle voltage went from 12.8 to 14.0. My off idle voltage went from 13.8 to 14.2 - 14.4. The lights are brighter and would swear the thing has more pep. More spark perhaps?
     


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  17. daqangel

    daqangel New Member

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    I have installed MOSFET r/r. One of those shindengen fh020aa.

    I'm testing each component and trying to find what's faulty. At the moment, I may have found it. The cam and ignition pulse generators seem to measure higher resistance than specs.

    Question: these sensors don't necessarily receive any input right? They just give out signals...no input voltage etc
     


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