Vortex Chain and Sprocket set

Chain and Sprocket set

Has anyone done the 520 conversion using the Vortex kit offered by sumofallparts.net? I am going to need to replace my chain and sprockets very soon and on the surface, this looks like a good choice. I know I can go with an RK or DID chain/sprocket set up as well. I am just exploring options at this point.

Thanks in advance

 

I did it on my 91 vfr and I was pleased with the quality of the product and the quick shipping. I have also dealt with them on the phone (because their web site is pretty limited) and they were very helpful.

That being said, I did change the front sprocket back to stock size as I didn't like the engine screaming at highway speeds. I kept the smaller sprocket for short track use.

I have uploaded a picture to my gallery of the rear sprocket and chain installed. Looks pretty nice!

 

A good friend of mine did the 520 chain conversion and left the stock number of sprocket teeth. He's extremely happy with the conversion! Says it was like adding 5hp.

 

Does one tooth down on the front make that much of a change? At 65 mph I am running about 4500 rpm in 6th gear and am considering dropping to a 15 tooth (1 down from stock) on the front. Would it be better to drop 1 in front and up 2 in the rear instead?

 

One tooth in the front is like three in the rear, so yes it is a big change and it will throw off your speedo reading significantly.

It all depends on what you want to accomplish with the mod. If you are going to go drag racing, I would suggest dropping two in the front and then play with the rear till you get the highest terminal velocity. If you just want a little more get up and go then going up two or three in the rear should do it and still remain streetable (IMOH).

If you are looking for a more significant performance boost, you need to spend some doh$$$$$ on engine work or buy an RC51.:biggrin:

 

I was looking for a little quicker accelleration as well as trying to get it to pull the wheel a little easier. I know wheelies are more for squids on sportbikes and not for viffers, but it is kinda fun once in a while. Maybe I should abscond a cbr600 somewhere. not! lol

I am going by where the sprocket teeth are in relation to the chain guard. Right now, they are just about at the end of the guard where it has the curve, whre the rear edge of the wear sticker would normally be. I am not sure how much more adjustment there is left in this chain.

 

Just ordered a 525 front and rear from the chain gang in Australia, real knowlegeable people, this seems a good compromise over stock. I will post performance after install.

 

Take a good close up shot of your rear sprocket and post it Reg71 so that we can have a look!

If you are lubing regularly, it should be good for a loooooong time. I met a fella in Ontario just over a week ago with 177,000 kms on his 90 VFR. He didn't say how many sprockets he has gone thorught to get there though.

 

Jethro, so going down 1 in front is like going up 3 in the rear or down 3 in the rear? I was never good at gearing. I need gearing 101. lol

 

reg,

Mine is further back than that. Where the teeth are horizontal on yours you stil have some room to go, while mine is at the back edge of the sticker, past the replace mark.

 

Here is the link to the pic of my sprocket and chain


http://vfrworld.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/1196/cat/524

 

Good suggestion reg. I am sure there are probably more who get cornfused reading it. I'll use yours and mine as comparisons for those who have and dont have the little dinky sticker. :biggrin:

In fact, I might just do a whole how-to for adjusting the chain. hmmmm....

 

I looked at the pics and did a little free hand sketch of good versus bad. The white line is your sprocket and the blue line would be a new one.

http://vfrworld.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/1197/cat/502

The teeth on your rear sprocket are worn but not totally toast yet IMHO. I would run the sprocket chain combo you currently have for another 5k with routine lubrication.
The sticker chain wear indicator is only for reference and is not really acurate as far as I'm concerned.
If you rotate the rear tire and the chain slack varies (tighter and looser) as you go. You have a stretched chain and should change the complete set as this condition sets up a vibration and could damage the countershaft. Imagine if you adjusted the slack in the stretched area and then the wheel rotates to the point where there is no slack at all! I've seen this happen and the results are really bad! Also adjust the slack with weight on the wheels so the swingarm is not fully extended. The chain tends to tighten as the rear of the bike squats with a passenger or under acceleration. Better a little loose than too tight.

Vman
Yes going up three on the rear is like going down one in the front. Check out the stunters and the size of their rear sprockets! They must be running 60 tooth rears! Don't feel bad about doing a wheelie or two, we all like to play.

http://vfrworld.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/1138/cat/530

 

Thanks jethro. I will probably go up to on the rear instead of down on the front. That just seems to be easier I guess.

Nice wheelie, btw :heh: :clap2:

 

Long story.......

Ok. My sprockets and chain came today and I went to work chaging them out. It was a job, more so than I would have expected. What to me should have been about an hour job turned into about 4 and a half hours, including a break to eat because I frustrated. I stayed with a 16T front sprocket and went to a 45T rear. Oh, this is a 520 chain, not a 530. Both sprokets went on with no problems. Getting the new chain cut to size and on was another matter. It is an o-ring chain and to start off my chain breaker broke. Stripped the dang threads. So I grabbed the grinder I went to Wally World for (had to grind the pins on the old chain) and start grinding. I get the plate ground down and grab the punch. Now I can't get into a position to hammer on it good. So I have 15 intues to run to the local NAPA store to borrow their bench vise. I get there with 5 to spare and get the link out. At this point I am thinking I am good to go. Nuh uh, wrong. I am using a clip link as I did not have the funds to buy a the press kit. I out the link in and go to but the plate on and it wond go over the pin on the backside of the clip valley. DOH! So now I grab grab my drill, had to stop to charge it twice, and open the holes just a bit. the plate now goes on just fine with no play at all. Put the whole bike back together, cleaned up and went for a ride. What time did I start this project? about 3:30 PM. When did I finish? about 8 PM.

Now for the results: It's smoother. That's the only way to describe the accelleration. The old sprockets looked ok and not too worn, but I am glad I changed them all. Is it faster? Can't tell by the seat-o-the-pants-meter. Remember I went up 2 teeth on the rear? Whould you expect a rpm change? Stock, at 55 mph I pull 4K, with the new set, at 55 mph I pull 4K. WTH? oh well thats ok. It will now pull the front wheel quite well in first with no clutch work whatsoever. I may go down one on the front to see if that makes it pull the wheel in second. Am I happy? Damn Skippy I am! I should have done a how-to on this, but my time was limited as I needed the bike together and running before tomorrow night. I will probably attempt a simple how to this weekend and also try to get pics.

Oh, and that clip-link holds quite well. :smile:

 

After some thought earlier today I got to thinking maybe the speedo and tach are both off since the sepdo is driven from the countershaft sprocket. I thought that maybe this might result in the speedo and tach reading the same as before, 4K RPM ad 55 MPH. Well, on the way to work I put that theory to the test. I timed how long ti took me to go one mile at 60 MPH. It took me 1 minute. Yep, 60 seconds to go one mile at 60 MPH. It appears that the speedo and tach are both correct. Anyone have any ideas on this?