Voltmeter Gauge - Assistance Please

Hey guys (gals if you are out there), after seeing all the post/forums about Regulator problems, I've decided to install a voltmeter. This is one thing I wish Honda would install from the factory as important as it is. Even the '08 GoldWings do have a voltmeter (whereas BMW & Harley! do).
I like the old school look of the VDO gauges, but I ran across a brand called Kuryakyn in black that would match pretty well since I have the '07 VFR and there is only the Tach as a dial.
Has anyone had experience with this brand? Cost is around $32 Dollars.
The only part I'm nervous about, with whichever gauge I go with, is the splicing into wires on the bike.
I would love for anyone out there with experience with this to share how they go about it.
As always, thanks for any input/pictures.

http://www.bikerhiway.com/installinfo/Kuryakyn/4218.pdf

 

No experience with that particular volt meter, but in general volt meters are simple (ammeters a little more difficult). For measuring voltage you can tap into ANY wire that has +12 volts on it. If you want it to be on only when the ignition is on pick a switched wire. If you want it to be on all the time pick one that is non-switched (or just go straight to the battery). For most things that I want to be switched I usually look for a taillight wire since they are normally easy to get to and easy to identify.

I completely dislike squeeze-on connectors or taps. They tend to corrode over time and frequently give an intermittent contact. Their only advantage is that they are easy to use. Personally I always solder electrical connections. Strip a little bit of wire away, wrap the tap wire around the original, solder the joint, and wrap some tape around it. That way you know for certain you have a good connection.

 

Appreciate the response SCraig. Do you happen to know which color the taillight wire is, and where it's coming from in the front since that is where it would be mounted.
Again, Thanks.

 

I think it's a solid green wire coming from the REAR. It appears that the green wire provides switched power to the tail lights and the license plate lamp. Just tap into it and use a piece of wire as long as you need to get to the front. Small wire, #18 or so, will work just fine since the volt meter is a very low-current device.

I always check a wire to make sure it's doing what I want before I tap into it. "Specifications Subject To Change" applies to wiring schematics as much as anything else. One easy way to check without much equipment is to take a straight pin and poke it through the wire. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE PIN GROUND ITSELF OUT ON THE FRAME OR ANYTHING ELSE! Hook the "+" side of a multimeter (or in your case just use the volt meter) to the pin and the "-" side to the negative side of the battery. With the ignition off you should have zero volts. With the ignition on you should have +12 volts (or actually closer to 13.8 volts).

 

After two r/r failures (94vfr, 98vtr) a few years back, I've been running voltmeters on every bike since. Here's a picture shot during the installation of a marine grade unit I picked up on ebay for $8 plus shipping (bonus that it matches pretty well):




I don't like digital gauges and their constantly flickering readings. There's no need to splice wires. You can run a 30amp switched relay connected directly to the battery for the most accurate readings. OK, you will have to tap into a switched power source (taillight is a good one) for the relay but that's it. Currently I'm tapped into the harness with this meter and it reads too low when compared with a hand held meter reading the battery and it's a little too sensitive to fluctuations like turnsignals, brake lights etc. I'll be going to a switched relay setup eventually.

 

Fotomoto I really like that gauge, and yes it looks OEM. Growing up my dad had a BMW R80 with a VDO Gauge similiar to yours, and that one did the same thing when you turn the signals on.
The problem with my bike is there is no room for a gauge without cutting doing some cutting (which I really don't want to do).
I'm not sure what you mean by a "switched relay" connection to the battery. You don't happen to have a picture?

 

A relay is nothing more than a high-current switch that is controlled by a low-current source. Most switches, and other electrical devices, are limited by how much current they can carry. A relay allows you to set up a high-current tap point and switch it from another source without overloading the source circuit.

A relay has two sides: A load side and a switched side. The load side can handle relatively high current loads (most common automotive relays are rated at 30 amps) while the switched side only requires a few milliamps (thousandths of an amp) to trip the relay. Thus you can power the switch side from any convenient switched source (i.e. tail light, etc.) without worrying about overloading the circuit. It's important to put a fuse in the load side that is rated at a current that is the same as, or lower than, the rating of your relay. A 20 amp fuse for a 30 amp relay, etc.

What I did on my V-Strom (haven't gotten around to it on my VFR yet) is to mount a barrier strip (similar to These From Rat Shack) in one of the side pods. I switched it with a relay so I always have a place to tap for switched power connections. The switch side of the relay is connected to the tail lights and the load side to the barrier strip. When I need to connect something that I want to go on and off with the ignition switch I just connect it there.

If you need details I can draw up a quick schematic. I may already have one around here somewhere.

Edit ... I forgot to mention that places that sell marine supplies (Walmart, Academy Sports, K-Mart, Target, Bass Pro Shop, etc.) are usually good places to find things like that volt meter. They are normally waterproof or water resistant and normally cheaper than "Motorcycle Specific" devices.

 

Anyone hit up Radio shack to see what they have? I'm looking for a red LED read out. You know you've got me thinking just maybe one of those Auto meter gauges might look good too.

 

I kinda like the simplicity of this one:




Available here I guess, just found it online.

The red would match our 07 RPM nicely. Although placement on the Gen 6 is limited to my OCD standards. There is a lip under the console as well as a small area by the fwd outside ends of the side fairings near the front of the tank. If it fits there is would be the best location IMO.

FWIW the voltage can be taken from the front marker lights (signals) as well, or just about anywhere else.

 

i bought one just like it. i actually got it from custom dynamics a little cheaper. it works just fine. i have a 97 so the fuse box is right there on the right side and i just tapped off the headlight fuse since it is a switched power source. the wires a really small gauge ( like 22 or somwehere around there) and it has about a 1 or 2 foot lead. its definately nice to see that gauge in the green while your on a long ride so your not thinking when that R/R is going to fail.