VFR Cutting Off - No Power to Start

My 2k VFR has been running really good. About a month ago I made a run with friends (about 50 miles) and after shutting off my bike to go to a store the bike would not restart. The panel lights would come on, but when I tried to start all lights would go out and nuthin. I got my friend to boost me off his bike and afterwards everything seemed fine. The bike has been starting and running with no problems until today. I was riding to work in Manhattan and the bike cutoff in traffic. I tried to restart and the lights would go out and the bike would not start. I was able to park the bike (illegally) and get to work. The bike was parked for about 2 hours when I went back and it started. I noticed the clock was reset to 5:10am. Also, the bike temp was showing to be 229 degrees or so whe it cutoff and wouild not restart. Any ideas - any help would be appreciated. Thanx in Advance!!!

 

People do not care how much you know until they know how much you care!!!

 

Sounds to me either a battery with a bad cell, the dreaded r/r issue, or a bad connection somewhere.

 

Anyone know where I can get the modified r/r for my VFR and if the part is available. I was palnning on changing the r/r and battery during the winter so why wait since I am having cutoff and battery charge issues.

 

Wow looks like this thread drew a lot of attention - looks like I wasted my time here. I got more help from the Inturder Forum. Thanx

 

Chill....Its only been up for a few hours:brick: . Any way what ever is occuring you are loosing your power supply completely. Could be the often failed R/R; which are still available thru Honda, Electrasport? & other manufactures. Or it could be as simple as a loose battery connection or loose main ground or a harness connector that for what ever reason is not completely plugged in.

I beleive Honda has updated there design on the RR beefier cooling fins, the high perf model should be rated for 40 amps. I know your not a big fan of Ebay but there are some reasonably priced units on right now.

 

Wow....not even 2 hours since your last post and you are already doggin us. I think it is we who should thank you. It owuld be nice if you showed a little patience please. A timeline of your posts...the first one a 3:01, the second at 3:48. A post after my initial reply at 4:27 was made at 4:53, then you posted this "Wow looks like this thread drew a lot of attention - looks like I wasted my time here. I got more help from the Inturder Forum. Thanx" at 6:31. I realize you wnat to get your bike fixed, but diggin a t people cause they do not respond to a post within an hour or so is not an efficient way af getting help. Anyway....I got my r/r from ricks motorsports electrics, the part number for your 2K VFR is 10-125 at a cost of $120.00. They will also ship overnight if you ask for it. I did mine that way, ordered it at 10 AM and had it by 7:30 AM the next morning.

So, here is the help you asked for. And you are welcome.

 

I am going to chime in here because I had the same problem the other day and again tonight. I was going to a ballgame the other day when as I came to a stop light the bike died. I couldn't start it and the dash lights dimmed when I tried. I shut it down and got a ride to the game. On the way home I tried it and it started right up and I rode it home. I took it out the next day for a short ride and it seemed fine so I thought maybe something was acting up because it was so hot that day. Then tonight i rode it into town and parked it. Was inside for an hour or so and when I came out it was still OK. I rode to a friends house and then on the way home it seemed to be doing fine. On a straight run I looked down and the speedometer wasn't working. I came to a stop and being suspicious I keptr the revs up and made it home. The speedometer started working when I left the stop sign. when i reached home I shut it off and it wouldn't start again. The dash lights were low again. The battery was replaced right before I bought the bike in May or June. I have the battery on charge now because the service manual has trouble shooting but it says to have a fully charged battery when doing the tests. I know this is long but does anyone have any idea right off the bat? All help appreciated,

eleman

 

He's prob on the Intruder forum getting help

 

Wow, lousy service huh Emon? why don't you ask for your money back?

 

Check your ground wire at the chassis and the battery. A loose ground can cause all kinda wacky stuff to go on. I just fixed an r6 that when you hit the throttle the gauges would go crazy and the panel lights would flicker. His problem was a broken neg. cable at his battery that was losing contact then regaining contact and so on...

 

Jev,
I didn't think about something like that. Thanks for the input. I hope it is something that simple. Gonna see if I can get some help on checking this thing out.

While I am here, is there anything in particular I should look for in a multimeter? I haven't really used them too much except to check the grounds during haz Mat Ops.

Thanks again, eleman

 

I have a Micronta 22-185A meter. About 50 bucks worth. It has always worked fine.

 

quick diy check for electrical problems

Similar situation with me as stated it typically is something with the electrical system.

I'm down for writing a step by step guide with pictures if there are alot of requests, if not here's a simple jist of how I go it done:

remember this is my understanding from research so typical disclaimers if your bike blows up! NOT MY FAULT! =p

special tools: multimeter

First test your battery if it can hold charge and if there is voltage
1) Should be 12V or higher when off
2) Should be around 12.5V when idle
3) Should be ~14V when above 3000rpm

If good then continue if not get your battery tested at a shop (kragen is free!)

1) Take off rear fairing (don't forget to pull rear light cluster connections)
2) On left side of bike locate R/R connection sock (large black rubber sock)
3) Disconnect both 3 prong and 4 prong connections
4) Test 4 prong (2 red, 2 green) for same voltage as battery, test both reds with greens. They should register same as battery terminals if not that connection is loose. if good reconnect.
5) Test 3 prong (3 yellow) test resistance amongst the 3 yellow should be between 0.1-1 on regular room temp. if not within range stator needs replacing.
6) Test all 3 prongs for continuity from yellow to ground (on the right side of frame near battery) there should be no continuity if there is then stator is bad.
7) If everything checks positive and all harnesses are secure then the Regulator / Rectifier needs to be replaced.

Sorry if there are any grammatical errors, Good luck!

 

He has a 2000 model, which has a sensor wire. He will also need to check the sensor wire for correct(battery) voltage. On many of them, especially 2002+ that is the only problem.

I have a plug and play harness I sell to fix 2000+ models, with other models supported(PM for details). This harness plugs into the factory harness, and provides an additional fused wire to the positive terminal for charging, plus a more reliable source for the sensor wire(where applicable). On those with a sensor wire there is an additional fused/relayed connection for extra low-amperage accessory wire.

On my bike this solved the overcharging problem, which was causing the 30 amp fuse assembly to burn up. 15.8-16.1 volts at 5K RPM before the fix, 14.45 volts after the fix.

PM if you are interested in one.