VFR 800 VTEC A-9 battery issues

Hi All,

About 18 months ago my battery stopped charging on my VFR. I was told it needed a new battery, so replaced the battery and it started working again. A similar problem happened 6 months ago, when I was once again told I needed a new battery. I changed it again.

This morning the same old issue has occurred. Essentially the battery just drains and seems to get almost no power into it unless on a fairly long run. Short runs mean not enough juice to turn the starter after only a couple of stops.

I use the bike to commute on every day and the last battery has never run flat (until this morning).

Do I just need yet another new battery? If you charge the battery on an external charger then it takes the charge no probs, meaning to me it might be something more. Rectifier?

If it is the rectifier how can I diagnose this? Can they be changed without needing to take to a garage?

Any help appreciated.

James

 

I am far from being a knowledgable techy type person but that seems just totally wrong. I had just shy of 95K miles on my original equipment. Switched it out due to problems of difficulties starting, and bike dying at stop lights only to discover it was not the battery at all. The original would probably still be working but I will never Know for sure. Truns out, my issue was the stator.

This is a drill supported by most here which may identify your problem. I have never done this but next time I run into similar difficulties, I will.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

 

Place voltmeter leads on both battery terminals while the engine is running at about 5000 rpm to check that the charging voltage is within the 13.5-14.5 volt range. If not, do the elecktrickal drill to determine whether the fault is in the regulator or the stator or the connector plugs. :crushed:

 

^^^ THIS ^^^

13.5v is LOW though - I was getting that BEFORE beefing up my charging leads. Now I get 14.3v SOLID with high beams and heated grips on.

I basically replaced the connector between the battery and the R/R and ran 2 extra wires directly from the R/R to the battery. I also replaced dinky wire on the main fuse (next to the battery) as its badly undersized. Check this wire for signs of burning.

Check all connectors between the stator and r/r and between the r/r and the battery for signs of burning (yellow/black discoloration). replace connectors with something better or solder them directly.

Let us know what you read across the terminals @ 5k rpm and we'll go from there.

 

Highly unlikely you've just got another bad battery. Follow the thread that Randy posted. Go to Post #9. That is The Drill. Report back here with your numbers.

You need to do these tests with a KNOWN fully charged and working battery. If you're battery won't pass a load test (done by your local auto parts store) then you'd need to replace it anyway before you can do the rest of the items in the Drill.

 

You could be using shit Chinese batteries, some of those only last 6 months, total crap some of them