VFR 750 RC24 1986 FG restore/mod

Bought this bike last year, and have spent some time restoring it a bit, and mixing things up (first bike and learning while I go along with help from a good friend and his dad). I rescued it from 8 years untouched in a garage.

This is probably not one for the purists, but I've tried to keep the original look as much as possible.

We just finished restoring brake calipers, installing a Hindle 4-2-1 exhaust with 16" carbon muffler, K&N filter, removed muffler snorkel, HEL brake lines front and back, new DID chain and sprocket, spiegler handlebar, stickers, different rear mirrors, lithium battery, proBrake brake and clutch levers, new cush dive rubbers, brembo brake pads, new spark plugs, new custom regulator/rectifier.

Here are some pictures:








I still have to install a Sigma-6 jetting kit (recommended by Hindle to match the system) as well as a GIpro gear indicator. Having a hell of a time getting those wheels clean as well..

The paint work is a tad rough on some of the fairings, but I will fix that at some point in the future. I've tried to find the correct colour codes but to no avail.

Does anyone know if there are any options to switch to newer calipers without doing a complete modification of the front?
Am also looking to get wider rear and front tires, but it doesn't seem easy to install larger wheels. But I have a CBR 600 F3 wheel ready.
Really enjoying the bike

Oh btw. if anyone has tips for removing the carbuerators for doing the jetting I would be greatful.

 

Great looking bike. There is some info in this thread https://vfrworld.com/threads/86-vfr-750-f2-f3-rim-conversion-info-confirmation.37618/ about wheel swaps. Can't answer your question about the forks unfortunately. That exhaust is very sexy... Keep us posted and welcome to the forum.

 

Nice VFR. That Ripple Rock system is tits.

You are pretty much locked into those calipers with those forks because of the TRAC anti-dive. While it is possible to adapt different calipers to that system, if you think adapting wider wheels is hard (it isn't), it probably isn't something for you to tackle. And not worth it ultimately. With good quality pads and the nice brake lines you installed, the brake system is more than qualified to pull you down from speed.

F3 wheel you have. Front or rear? The rear is easy. Hardest part is deciding and executing a rear brake option. And that isn't even that difficult, depending how elegant you want to be. I have done 4 different versions of adapting the F2/F3 rear wheel and brake solution.

The front depends on how far you want to go. If you know a good machinist, you can have the rotor mounts of a F2 front wheel machined down to match the width of the stock wheel and bolt in using the stock forks. Or you can swap in a front end from another Honda, but there are always small hurdles that scare people. I currently have 3 VF/VFRs with different front ends and am building another. If you source the right lower triple clamp, a 41mm front end can be bolt in, no machining required, but you still need to do something with the fuse box (another small hurdle).

Grab a heat gun (on LOW) or a hair dryer and get the intake boots nice and warm. Don't melt anything. With a couple rags for cushion, you can lever them out in between the rear valve cover and the left rear carb. CAREFULLY. If it doesn't want to go initially, don't force it and crack the carb body. Now purchase new intake boots. Yes, they are expensive for what they are. Yes, you will thank yourself for doing it. The alternative reality version of yourself that didn't buy them will swear and cry.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks for the resposes. I will put the front on pause until next summer probably. So for now its stock rear and front.

Thanks for the tip regarding the carbs Captain80's. Much appreaciated. I've tried to order the intake boots from somewhere online (Csmnl etc.) but can't seem to find them anywhere. Do you have parts numebers for them? or are they called something specific apart from intake boots?

 

INSULATOR, CARBURETOR
16211-ML7-000

 

Thanks! Will see if I can find somewhere in Europe that has some in stock.

 

removing the carbs is alot easier if you run the engine to get it warm b4 trying.

 

Thanks squirrelman, will probably do a carb restore and clean and sync together with the jetting. Could upload pictures of the process if people are interested in a thread about that.

 

I've heard that you have to be really careful with the piston vacuum that has that very soft rubber, as it can sometimes have aged and has become brittle. They are extremely expensive and hard to get a hold of. Is this true? Does anyone have a tip on how not to brake them?

 

So just an update on the project.
My friend and I did the carb removal a couple of days ago, went a lot easier than assumed. Warmed them up a bit (on low) with a heat gun as per Captain 80's advice, and they came out without to much of an issue.
We really struggled to remove the float needle from the piston vacuum though.. what a giant pain to open those up...but we succeeded in the end, although the 8 nut on two of them are pretty damaged now. Might look into getting two new floats although they seem to be hard to find.

We did the jetting and reinstalled everything only to find that one of the carbs was now leaking. It didn't help that gasket kit I got did not fit the carbs, and also the new intake rubbers I received were of varying size... So now I have to wait for a new carb gasket set to finish the jetting procedure.
Btw. the manual from 6Sigma Jet Kit said to slightly tighten the mixture screw and then turn 2,5 turns CCW, but this causes the mixture screw to be very loose.. that can't be right can it? We just tightened it slightly and disregarded the 2,5 CCW turns instruction.

 

The spring should still have a plenty of tension to keep a 2.5 turns out mixture screw steady. You accounted for the tiny 0-ring, washer and spring on each pilot screw, right?

If so, I like to take the springs and pull them apart on really old ones to help give some more tension on the screw, especially if you are going 2.5 or more out. They can rattle out easy without good tension.

 

I think I might have gotten terms confused. We didn't remove or modify anything with a spring, so either it was the main jet or the pilot jet, I guess....
Good tip regarding the spring though.
Do you happen to know which float bowl gaskets would fit? The ones I ordered from CMSNL that did not fit look like these, but I believe these look like they could fit instead (they have one less "curve" in them)...

 

unless the slide needle shows obvious wear or damage there is no need to remove it; and if the slide lifts properly and returns quickly there is no real need to disturb the top cap or remove the slide as that area doesn't accumulate dirt, and getting the diaphragm properly seated again can be difficult. i'd suspect a missing spring if the mixture screw is loose at 2 1/2 turns out.

 

an industrial O-ring, size -041, will work, is commonly available and costs next to nothing.

 

VITON. But, yes, -041.

 

Sorry, I just assumed if V4 carbs have come out, you would go thru them properly before reinstalling. But I guess since they are so easy to remove and install and never have issues, what the hell.

Just bustin' balls.... mostly.

 

Hehe yeah, I was planning to go through them properly but since the replaement gasket kit I had for them didn't fit at all I had to reinstall them without a proper new seal...which obviously didn't work out
Can't tell if you are being ironic, but taking the carbs out honestly wasn't the difficult part.
Or are you referring to my confusion surrounding which parts we replaced during jetting?

O-ring size -041 that is not in metric, I'm guessing?

 

Not sure if it's considered "metric" or what. It's the size you need.

Referring to everything. If the carbs come out for "work", basic things should be done at least. All jets and the fuel screws removed (and spring, washer, or-ring). Jets poked with wire, all passages blown. If you don't know when the float bowl o-rings were replaced, you replace them. They are cheap. We are talking about 35 year old rubber items. Time to look deep in your soul and decide, "Is now the time I replace the crossover o-rings?" Are the carbs out of the bike? Yes. Have they ever been done? Unlikely. Is it hard? No. Is it tedious? Yes. Would it absolutely SUCK to have your carbs start POURING fuel out of them in the middle of nowhere? YES.

Time to do it? Now.

 

^^ it's wise to hook the carbs up to a fuel source for a few minutes on the bench to check for leaks b4 installation.

 

And by a few minutes doesn't mean after 5 mins you install then - lol.
Leave them hooked up over night - I put a piece of tape on the fuel bottle with a mark at the fuel level so I can check with a quick glance the next morning.