Vf500 Clutch slave cylinder problem

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Thomasf, Jul 18, 2019.

  1. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    I had a leak in the master cylinder that was fixed trying to get the clutch back working. Noticing a rock hard lever when bled fully, took the slave cylinder off and the piston is hitting the back plate and not returning causing a hard lever... any help?
     
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    In the future 'bump' your original thread.

    Please elaborate on "the back plate". What are you talking about? Sounds like the very tiny bleed return hole in the master is plugged perhaps (it's under the little metal hood in the bottom of the master cyl). Or maybe it's time to disassemble the slave and see what's going on?

    In any case, something has changed. If this was operational before and all you've done is bleed the system, something got fucked up.
     
  3. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Fluid is not returning to the master cylinder, drain the entire system, pull the master cylinder, completely disassemble it, and inspect all of the moving pieces, KEEP TRACK OF THE ORDER YOU PULL THEM OUT IN, pay special attention to the rubber bits, any hard or cracked rubber bits should be discarded and replaced. Visually check any parts that have metal to metal contact, remove all corrosion and lubricate. Clean everything, including the bore, remove any debris or corrosion, check to make sure that the inside of the master cylinder is spotless, making extra sure the bleed orifice is spotless. Reassemble the master, make sure you lubricate the entire bore and the rubber plunger pieces with fresh, clean brake fluid before inserting them into the bore. Finish the assembly and double check that all of the circlips are seated properly in their grooves. Bench Test it to make sure it makes pressure when you depress the plunger, and that the pressure comes off, when you release the plunger. You can do this with your finger plugging the exit hole, or a bolt.

    Once you have done that, and the bench test confirms the master if functioning properly, you can either reassemble the system, or go all the way and clean the clutch slave, paying very close attention to the piston, bore, and the seal condition. CLEAN EVERYTHING. Replace the banjo bolt washers and reassemble, bleed with your choice of bleed tool, DO NOT TRY TO PUMP IT UP WITH THE LEVER you will will be there forever. Once you have the system primed and you are getting pressure at the lever, use the lever, and perform the pump and hold method, to burp the banjo bolts, start with the bottom banjo first, once you have confirmed there is no air in the bottom banjo fitting, pump and hold the lever and burp the top banjo. It doesn't hurt to lightly tap on the brake line a few times, bottom to top, to help any small bubble work their way to the upper banjo. Once you have removed the air from the banjo fittings, Torque them to factory specs, perform a final lever pump and hold bleeding procedure, using the bleed nipples, MAKE SURE YOUR BLEED NIPPLE IS SEALED AND NOT SUCKING AIR WHILE YOU ARE DOING THE FINAL BLEEDING. They make a special flexible sealer for these bleed nipples to ensure they won't leak through the threads when they are loose. I recommend coating the threads BEFORE you install them and start putting fluid in the system.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019
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  4. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    Took the slave and cover off and it appears the push rod is as far as it can go, thus the reason the slave cylinder isn't being pushed back... any links to a manual to take apart the clutch..
     

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  5. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    Upon inspection of the oil I noticed lots of metal shavings... drained oil and took the cover off and found the clutch radial bearing was broke. time to order parts.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    What the fuck? Who's the HACK that's been in there? That mis-matched spring bolt is the first red flag. The end of your push rod is toast. That outer pressure plate might be toast. Mind boggling.
     
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  7. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Looks like a classic case of child abuse. I'm raising the white flag on this. Best of luck. Peace.
     
  8. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    It's my first bike picked it up last year and was just able to start riding this year, had it safetied and that costed 1700$ then a leak in the gas line a few weeks ago I was able to fix myself, a week before that I had the regulator go and that was a 300$ bill
    Bike breaks down constantly lol.
     
  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    if you did some study on this site b4 you bought it, you probably wouldn't have. not a good bike for anyone without alot of experience working on bikes, a good set of tools, and another bike to ride while waiting to find parts.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 19, 2019
  10. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Damn, sorry man...prolly woulda been cheaper to get a ninja 400, or an R3, or something
     
  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah, you have FAR exceeded the value of that bike. And who ever "safetied" that bike should be taken out back and beat with a wet 2x4.

    I love 500s, but they take passion and mechanical ability to own. And should be a 2nd bike at best.

    Time to take serious stock of the situation. Do you want to ride or keep stuffing a t-shirt cannon full of $20s?
     
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  12. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Now that I know the full story, I feel absolutely horrible for this young man, going through a similar situation with my RVF. Cut your losses my friend, I know it's going to feel like a waste, but rest assured, you will look back on it and be glad that you got out from underneath it when you did. Best of luck. Don't give up the dream, you'll find something better.
     
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  13. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    Going to get It running, then it's going up on the market.
     
  14. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    Update new springs new radial bearing and new oil. Clutch is slipping and will not fully engage the trans when the lever is let out.
     
  15. Thomasf

    Thomasf New Member

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    Pic of oil used
     

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