VF1000FE restoration and Suspension conversion

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by musclemax, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. musclemax

    musclemax New Member

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    Hey guys, mine is a Canadian model 1984/5 VF1000FE Red Black. The bike runs great but age related problems caused it a rusted tank-fuel leak, rear disk scoring, paint fade & carb jammed due to tank rubbish. My bad as i too kept it off the running cycle & kept riding my other rides. The time came for stripping it and restoring it to its original glory but I never really felt comfortable with the front and rear suspension and tyres. While im a purist and wanted to keep it all stock somehow I have decided to make it a new tank and give it new legs to look the part and go like hoot. I love Tom's mutant VF1000R, what a bike.

    Please advise on the below:

    1. Front sus: USD or Conventional: 43MM or 45MM, i thought USD's but if i can find a pair of conventional used Marzoccis and set em up with petal discs it would be great and more so 43MM stanchions will go right through without the need for triple clamps.

    2. Rear: Do i need to change the swing arm to fit a 180 Sec rear tyre??

    3. Wheels: should i go for 17inch or 18inch?

    4. Tank: Maybe like Tom's Mutant VF1000R, i need to source one from an older VFR, pls help.


    5. Engine Case Paint: what to use without pulling it apart (only the outer removable cases can be easily removed but i dont want to remove the bores out just to pain em. Its not safe with the level of mechanics out here.

    A set of parts that i ordered from cyclepartsnation.com are on their way here so i need to figure the rest out.
     


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  2. hopit88

    hopit88 New Member

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    I would try to find some 43mm forks. Using the stock triples or at least triples with the same offset is key. Unfortunately, many modern 43mm forks are too short for the F/R. With good internals, even your stock forks can perform better. I went with an RC51 frontend but it needed a custom upper to make it work. Put some F2/F3 wheels on it and you'll be pleased. Stick with the F2 4.5 or F3 5.0 for the rear. A 6" rear can be done but a custom front sprocket is needed and things get real tight.

    If you're using the stock F fairing, it seems to me that you need to use the F's tank as well since they flow together but anything is possible I guess. Getting a VFR tank to fit will be a lot of work. I used an '83 V45 tank for my R. I welded in a CBR filler neck/cap to make it a little racier.

    [​IMG]
     


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  3. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    When I restored my 1000R, the road I went down was to keep it in stock form. Due to that, I don't have much advice for you, but I am very interested in what you're undertaking. Make sure to keep this thread updated as you progress with the project.
     


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  4. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    [​IMG]

    Hopit88 - What you've done with your bike is a pure work of art. I am amazed at how you've given the 1000R such a modern look. I wish I had the creativity / ability to perform work like that.
     


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  5. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    hear, hear!
     


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  6. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    As mentioned, I think you'll find that a fork upgrade would be a lot of work. Your bike can certainly use the improvement! Newer/better forks are shorter than your stock forks so clearance is a big problem. Plan on making some custom parts and checking things out thoroughly.


    The swingarm is not the problem, it's the chain. The kit that I make works but also requires a modified front sprocket to offset the chain for clearance. I'm running a 900RR rear wheel and 180 tire on my R.

    No contest here - 17 is the way to go. Back in the early 90's sportbikes standardized on 120/17 fronts and either 160/17 or 180/17 rears.


    You can paint the engine without completely disassembling it. It's probably easiest to pull it from the frame though (not sure if this is what you mean by "bores"). There are several types of engine enamel that can be used. Just mask off all the holes and you'll be all set.
     


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  7. hopit88

    hopit88 New Member

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    Thanks Stewart! It's been a lot of work. Before I hand it over to my son, it will go back to stock, which, IMO, is harder to do than a full custom.
     


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