Trick to install carburetors?

I did a search for "install carburetors" and nothing came up...

So upon install of my carb assy, I broke the fuel rail between carbs 3 and 4. Upon re-removal I broke the other 2 (maybe a bit of excessive force on my part, due to frustration...:crazy

Anyway, I used WD-40 on the BRAND NEW BOOTS when installing the carbs but it was still super tough to get the assembly in.

I think my plan of attack (once my new fuel rails get in... $90) will be use a heat gun to warm the boots and apply axle grease.

I re-read the climber manual and it really dosent offer any tips or trick to this procedure...

Anyone else have similar experience?
BTW, I have an '84 VF700F I'm trying to resurrect.

 

I wouldn't heat

If your bike is anything like my 87, there is a trick so to speak. With the boots that are to the rear of the bike tilt them up and back, then install carbs on front boots, pushing down in the back after they are fully seated in front. It will still take a bit of pressure but should be much easier than before. Sometimes the edge of the carbs will hang up on the boots so in this case take something small and possibly curved like a curved pick and help the boots around the edge of the carbs.

Taught by Toe

 

Here is the trick

The metal plate that sits between the carbs and airfilter(the plate that the ignition coils sit on).DO NOT REMOVE IT FROM THE CARBS.If you do you will brake lines and springs will jump out.

Best regards

Gunnar

 

So I should:

1. Put the common plate back on the carb assy prior to re-install?

2. Point the rear boots up a bit and install the carbs into the front cylinders first.

This is the general consensus?

 

1. Yes, that's why the lines broke.

2. Also point the front boots up and install in to all four at once.

And heating the boots a little with a heat gun does work well, I did this last time, along with a little wd40, on new boots and they pretty muched popped right in. Don't use axle grease.

 

using lube on the boots is a good idea, but DON'T use axle grease. brake fluid is slick and won't attack rubber.

it helps to slip all mounts off the heads about 1/2 way and angle them in the most optimal manner that lines up carbs.....forcing the carbs into the boots will force the mounts back onto heads. Be sure the carbs and boots are lined up b4 using force and hooking a side of a mount.
be sure that the assembly is fully into boots all around b4 tightening clamps.
some force may be necessary to get last 2 or 3mm of insertion, and i have both stood with all my weight on top of the unit and put a section of 2X4 across airbox section and gently used a medium-sized hammer to tap, which must be done with discretion.


doing this job first time, back in 1991, had me sweating and cussing profusely for hours!!! Especially cursing the Honda service manual: "Assembly is a reverse of installation."

MY FAT ASS IT IS !!!!????

 

The obvious con of grease is the mess, but it seems like it would be a good solution to ensure low friction during the install process.

Additionally, a cylinder with significant quantities of grease would pose issues with compression, but assuming I used it conservatively...

At least I'm not the only one who has had issue with this... I feel a little better!

 

boots

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/22449-cleaning-carbs.html#post170054 ..........some pics of said boots at angle needed to install.:thumbsup:

 

Yup that's just what happened, so where exactly do the springs go, I have 1 small & 2 medium springs that were laying on the block. Does anyone have a pic or diagram of where they fit on the assembly?

 

The springs

Hey

The small ones are for the syncharscrews for 1&3 and carb 4.Where you ballast the carbs.And the big ones goes between the carbs 1&3 and 2&4 just below the syncharscrews.If you want pictures go and search the forums like "Not a teaser" he is rebuilding his bike and has pictures of the carbs.

Best regards

Gunnar