TPO Parts PAIR Blockoff Plates

I got lazy and rather than making my own blockoff plates(I now realize how simple they are) I decided to purchase the ones from TPO Parts for 20 bucks. The plates are semi-universal and are very well machined. However, the universal part is where the plates faceplant. The plates are barely big enough to cover the opening on the head and there is a notch cut in the one side(presumably for an alignment pin on a different bike) that I have found creates a leak. I just emailed them and recommended making the plates 1/8th inch bigger on all sides and removing the notch. Maybe I'll get lucky and they will do something about the ones I currently have. As for now, I wouldn't recommend purchasing them. If you have some basic power tools, some 1/8th inch thick sheet metal of some sort and making them yourself using the cover as a template.

 

I use the TPO block-off plates on my 6th gen. and have absolutely no problems at all with them.
I use TPO block-off plates on my RC51 too.
No leaks,no drips,no errors. :lol:

As I recall the TPO installation instructions state that you're supposed to put a bead of high temp silicone sealant around the opening in the valve cover before you install the block-off plates.
Did you put a big enough bead of sealant around those openings before you installed the plates?
The block-off plates have an irregular shape to them,as does the opening in the valve cover,did you orient the plates correctly on the valve cover so that they seal properly?




Just a heads up Davis,I posted a "how-to" write up on the pair mod in the 6th gen. forum using the TPO block-off plates and NorcalBoy PM'ed me a short while afterwards with a much better idea on how to seal them.
He suggested that instead of using sealant to seal the block-off plates that I should take the reed valves that I removed from the valve covers,unscrew the little screws securing the reeds to their mounting plates,ditch the reeds and screens,and reinstall just the mounting plates.

Make sure that the two mounting bolts are tight and the rubber seals around the reed mounting plates will make a nice tight seal against the block-off plates. Works like a charm.
Might wanna give that a try before you give up on those TPO block-off plates.

BTW Davis,those screws are absolute little basstids to remove. Gonna need a good pair of pliers or maybe a pair of vise grips to get them out because a philips screw driver may not do the trick.

 

I took special care to orient the plates and put a nice bead of sealer on em, its just that unnecessary notch barely covers the opening. I had thought about using the reed valves as seals, you really wouldn't even have to remove the reed valves themselves. Thanks for the pics and info.

 

If you're thinking about using the reed valves as seals for your block-off plates Davis,than you absolutely MUST REMOVE the little screws that secure the reeds to their mounting plates.

See for yourself my friend,the screw head protrudes above the level of the rubber seal lip on the reed mounting plate.
If you were to just bolt on your block-off plates without removing those screws they would never seal properly because they'd never make contact with the rubber seal on that side of the reed mounting plate.

You said you found a small leak before,well Holy Smokers you'd find a REALLY HUGE leak now! :doh: :lol:

 

Ah, you ain't kiddin. I would have noticed that when I was putting em in, I'll get it done once it stops raining...

 

I made my own plates, and just used the original Reed with the stuff taken out of them, along with some gasket sealer. Havent fired it up yet since I did it, but Im sure they work.

Pics in sig - Photos - Bike Side

 

A&A blockoff plates.





Nicely detailed, made specifically for the VFR with better fit, no notch, and cleaner countersunk attachment points. No messy sealer required either.


...

 

Norcal, those plates are much nicer. I ended up doing what stosh recommended, using the reed plates as seals and they worked great.