Touch up Paint for good old VFR RED.

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by vfracer, May 16, 2004.

  1. vfracer

    vfracer New Member

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    Paint match.....If your looking for a touch-up that matches that VFR Red I have found that the Chrysler Radiant Red works great ! number SF CC 382 found in most Auto Stores. year 1995-1990by dupli -color...... ::)
    Ride Fast Ride Safe.

    Jersey Steve
     
  2. vfrvixxen

    vfrvixxen New Member

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    Thanks for sharing!

    I bought the actual Honda brand touch up paint and it looks bad! Dealership accused me of using fingernail polish (it's that bad)!! :p
     
  3. vfracer

    vfracer New Member

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    Yea...i was not happy also with the honda paint.....
    You should give the one I posted a try ....I was very pleased.
    Took three different color red's before I found the one that worked the best for my taste.

    Ride Fast....Ride Safe...
    Vfr steve
     
  4. quema

    quema New Member

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    Okay, I know this is some kind of record for bringing up old posts... but...

    I used radiant red, and it was a little too dark. But, still pretty close, considering how it looked before, this is an improvement. (until I can afford new plastic, I just bought the bike with minor damage)

    I did put this paint right on top of the black abs plastic, so maybe a base coat of primer would help lighten it up.

    Anyhow, the paint is availible at almost any auto parts store (got mine at Autozone)

    Good luck!
     
  5. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I got mine from ebay and it was a pretty good match for 'italian red'. Unless you knw where you are looking, the scratches are gone except for texture. the color is PD close.

     
  6. keet

    keet New Member

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    ....thanks for the paint tip folks...i was wondering how u prepped the scratches before u applied the paint...what kind of brush?....any special primer?...etc?...
     
  7. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    well, I didn't. I probalby should have but all I did was wipe off the dirt and apply the paint. I have come to realize that I am more about the ride than I am about looking at the ride. I keep thinking I will go back and fix it later, but I just wanted to fix the scratch and keep on going. I really feel bad about it, but not bad enough to stop and sand it down with 3 different grits of paper and then paint it again. :)
     
  8. ZonaMan

    ZonaMan New Member

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    Sorry to revive this old thread, but has anyone else tried this? I need to get some touch up paint too for my 98. :2guns:
     
  9. Witch Doctor

    Witch Doctor New Member

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    I just bought some "7762 - Sunrise Red" by Rust-Oleum for my '99; the cap matched pretty closely; we'll see when it dries. I just finished bombing the left cowling, upper cowling, and wheel cowling. I knew my 10-year-old bike would have faded from the original color, and I didn't want to go down the road of custom-mixed paint. I wanted a consistent color by a "big box" paint vendor. So I opted to sand and repaint entire panels.

    One thing, though, as far as rattle-cans go Rust-Oleum is real shite. It's cheap, nasty, unstable (reactive), and the nozzles are poorly made, giving streaky, "rattle can" results. So why did I buy it? Availability. I cannot for the life of me find any decent Krylon dealers in my area. All the chains sell the cheap Rust-Oleum brand.

    A tip if you do subject yourself to Rust-Oleum: you will have to wet-sand it when done, which requires a 2-week waiting period. The nozzles are just not good enough to lay down paint consistently. I planned to wet-sand it anyway, so it doesn't matter much to me.

    If I were doing it again, I'd special-order Krylon paint. It can be recoated anytime, and the nozzles are good enough that you can actually do decent wet-edge work with it. This way you're not stuck having to do all the panels in one hour- for me that's 2 coats primer, 4 coats pigment, and 2 coats clear- and then, two weeks later, having to wet-sand a massive amount of orange peel.

    I've heard good things about the Rust-Oleum Professional line, but I haven't seen it in clearcoat. If I could find a Professional clearcoat rattle-can, that would probably be "good enough" for a Krylon fanboy stuck in his own version of Dante's Inferno.
     
  10. wdgah

    wdgah New Member

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  11. Witch Doctor

    Witch Doctor New Member

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    I should elaborate a little more on why I didn't choose R157. Because it's not an off-the-shelf color, shops have to custom mix it, even when selling it in cans as Cycle Surge does. In my opinion, paint color matching is somewhere between palm-reading and tea leaf divination in terms of consistency. So, the thinking was roughly:

    - If it didn't match my other fairings, I'd be paying quite a bit for a single can of custom-mismatched color.
    - If I had to order a second can, it probably wouldn't match exactly.
    - Every time I needed touch-up paint, I'd have to do all this over again, with the custom-mixed orders.

    I have a "Jeep" mentality about my bikes, where I believe everything should be simplified as much as possible in the interest of easier maintenance. Off-the-shelf paint colors fit into that quite well. The only downsides are the long cure time and a patchy clearcoat in some areas (poor nozzle). That will be wet-sanded to a high gloss, so it'll only be hideous for the next two weeks.

    Obviously if all I had to choose from was OSHA orange and flat black, things would be different, but you can get some pretty darn good looking analogues to Honda's paint right off the shelf.

    I also wanted to see if I could achieve a good-quality finish with rattle cans, and if not, I'd just sand it down again and take it to a "real" paint shop. With off-the-shelf paint at $4 a can, I could afford to play around.

    Status update: All the fairings are back on the bike, and though my inner design snob is trying to prevent my fingers from typing this, the Rust-Oleum turned out really well! Slightly more orange than the stock paint, but next to faded dark red body panels, I think it looks better.

    I'll have to take some photos. Next will be wet-sanding in two weeks, and if that works out, I'll do the right side panel, rear cowl, and call it a day. I'm especially interested to see if this rattle-can stuff fades/chips/breaks down as quickly as I've heard... if it only lasts a year before breaking down, I'm going to get it resprayed. Still, my other rattle-can jobs never had "breaking down" issues... possibly due to following the 90/10 rule in regards to prep vs painting.
     
  12. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    Im sad. i found a small dent in my new (used) tank.
     
  13. wdgah

    wdgah New Member

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    It's NOT that they have to custom mix it. The reason why you'll never get it the SAME as the OEM R157 is because you're trying to use a single step product to recreate what Honda does in multiple steps.

    The R157 isn't a standard two-part base coat/clear coat that they mix and apply as a single step, let it dry, and throw it on the bike.

    You have it mixed once and buy enough base coat/clear coat to shoot the bike AND have enough left over for a respray, in case you have the need down the road. Heck, buy enough to shoot it TWICE, and you'll aways have a matching color.

    The problem is, the VFR isn't a 'Jeep'. Hence, the lack of 'Jeep mentality'.

    The problem is, "good quality" is a subjective opinion. You might think that a spray can finish is "good quality", while others think it looks like hell.

    Personally, I've never seen a rattle can finish on any bike or auto that isn't discernable AS a rattle can finish, all on it's own.
     
  14. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    I used rattle cans to repaint my old Yamaha, and the majority of it required lots of wet sanding between color coats. A professional paint job is attainable with rattlecans, it just requires lots of color sanding.

    Once you get a smooth surface to spray, it gets more smooth with more coats. I would bet that I could do a rattle can paint job that you could not discern from a "professional" paint job.

    I agree with the "Jeep simplification" made above. Italian Red is not an easy color to match - I would only go to Color-Rite if I were to get this paint, and get a LOT of it at once so it was consistent.

    But if you are able to find a rattle can pearl red that you like - and to you, matches close enough, DO IT! Better yet, try to match the "batch codes" printed on the bottoms of the cans to make sure that your paint matches as close as possible from can to can.
     
  15. wdgah

    wdgah New Member

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    Again, "professional" and "good quality" are subjective. What might look completely fine to you may look like a spray can paint job to someone else. It's a matter of standards ... :)

    I'll take that bet in a heartbeat. Based on your picture (avatar), I'd say that I've been spraying my own cars, trucks, and bikes since before you were born ... :)

    Again, it's a perception thing.
     
  16. Bubba Zanetti

    Bubba Zanetti Member

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    That touch up paint also works good for painting 'special' messages on your bar ends!

    Just ask KC-10FE!

    LOL!

    BZ
     
  17. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    I'll agree with you on this point, but only because I'm acknowledging that people have differing opinions. I've been detailing cars for about 15 years now, and can pick out paint defects from 10 feet away. I can see accident damage that most would overlook. So what "looks completely fine to me" is most likely "completely fine" or better. I still stand behind my statement that you can achieve a "professional" finish with spray paint. Lots of painting and lots of time color sanding (up to 2000 grit), plus a clear coat shot from a HVLP gun will get you where you want to be. Solids are much easier than metallics, and my Yamaha was a blue metallic. I would wager that I had 15 coats of paint on that tank before I was through with it, and each coat was wet sanded to AT LEAST 1000 grit before the next coat went on. After all of this, I went through the 3-step Meguiar's system to bring the luster up to OEM standards. It was as smooth as glass with no inconsistencies in the color or metalflake. Indiscernable from a "professional" finish. :smile:

    I'll dig up some pics of that Yamaha and post them. Don't assume that my age has anything to do with my experience. I'll be 30 this week, which has nothing to do with my experience or level of detail when painting anything. Once the pics of my Yamaha are up, we'll see how non-professional it looks.
     
  18. wdgah

    wdgah New Member

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    No need to be so defensive, my friend. My comment was not in reference to YOUR experience. It was in reference to MINE. ;)
     
  19. drewl

    drewl Insider

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    Look at the last on line status of the original posters. It says December 1969.
    Did they have the internet and VFRs in 1969? I think not.
     
  20. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    Sorry - didn't mean to come off as an ass. I just take offense when someone tries to take a known constant and flip it on me... Here's the pics of the Yamaha. The fender was not completely painted in picture #2.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the threadjack. :redface:
     
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