Thermostat

Hi Mates,

95 VFR. . riding the other day, cool day (20C or about 70F) travelling 60mph average. temperature guage is hardly getting into the low "normal" range..

on hot day previously, sitting in traffic, getting up to 3/4 hot side when fan cut in.

have had trouble with thermostat on car before ( going down to 'cold' when coasting downhill)..

Just wondering whats normal...should temp guage be sitting around midrange most of the time??

More worried about the engine getting too cold, than too hot. .

How big a job is changing over the thermostat on this model??

Thanks for ideas!

P.S. gonna kill the next wanker that tries to overtake me on the inside!!


Cheers,

Geoff

 

they will stick open and run cold--makes fuel consumption go up.

 

mine was mangled and in the open position when I replaced it. Remember to get the nice big oval fat o-ring for the housing. I replaced my two hoses down there as well. I had to re-tighten my hose clamps that went to the housing too :frusty: ass-hole engineering for sure...par for the course though...its not like I would ever get rid of it...

 

Thanks for replies mates,

only had the bike few months. Is it sposed to be like a (sorry) 4 wheel ve-hi-cle where most of the time, the temp gauge stays stuck in middle of range (unless somethings wrong?). . . . . and if its not, the thermostat is stuffed??

Thoughts?

Geoff

 

i think it should run up to about the 10 o'clock postion and then the thermostat opens--you can see it drop back down a little once it opens. If it is running up at the 9:00 position about in the middle, it may be leaking a little and not getting the bike up to full temp. The more defective it is the lower the temps will rise. Another way to test it is to put strips of duct tape across the radiator grill to help put some heat into the engine and see the reaction of the 'stat. i have run 3 to 4 strips across the entire radiator and still had a hard time getting the temps up to normal except on really hot days (90's +) . Doing this my fuel mileage went up from low thirties to mid-forties mpg.

It's not that bad to change it out, it's just that it is a two stage device that seems prone to failure and i hate buying crap like that more than once.

 

thanks kennybobby and ridervfr,

yeah, mainly in the 8 oclock position last ride (just into lowest 'normal' range . . .. dont like running with cool oil.

thanks heaps. will change over myself hopefully!

Just fill with normal auto anticool liquid?

Geoff

 

OK, while I'm here, one other stupid question.

the smaller thinner 'radiator' above the normal radiator. what is that?
In cars I would think its a transmission oil cooler.

??

Thanks, Geoff.

 

I read some threads saying that normal auto antifreeze will rot the seals in the water pump. Honda makes some coolant and you should need 4 quarts. I would recommend flushing it since you are already there with some distilled water and vinegar. I picked up 4 gallons and the vinegar for about 7 bucks at the local grocery store.

The little radiator is the oil cooler.

 

Did you get the stat changed? you need silicate free coolant, ethylene-glycol based

 

Hi VFRIRL,

Got the thermostat changed (3 days ago). . . on my 11/95 VFR750 ( always not sure, thats 3rd gen or 4th gen???)

Easier than i thought, when I heard all horror stories of taking out carbies etc

Just took off rear fairing, tank, right fairing... thermostat is there looking at you.
Easy access, no worries. Couple of sips along the way, about 2 hours work.
Only problem, having couple of sips, couldn't take the bike out for run . . . lol

Will go for test ride tomorrow.

Any special things to look out for filling coolant? (says it is in 'service manual' which I dont have)
I have filled it up (radiator and overflow bottle).. hopefully air will get expelled from the system? any thoughts??
NB. trap for the unwary (or stupid like me).. remember to turn the fuel cock back on!!! and dont wonder why the bike is dying afer 2 minutes . . lol

Ps. . bike shop said car (ethylene glycol) antifreeze is ok, as long as you change it every 12 months

Cheers,

Geoff

 

Best not to assume the cooling system is full, so another check under the rad cap after your first ride and a top up when the engine is cool is always good.

Changing thermostats is relatively easiest on gen 1 & 2, just a bit harder on 3 & 4, and practically diabolical afterward !! That's progress !!??

 

I used Prestone ethylene-glycol based silicate free premixed ready to use coolant. silicate free is crucial for your water pump.
I didn't bother removing the drain plug at the front of the engine,I drained her out from the drain screw in the water pump,then I stuck the shop vac in the rad filler and it blew the rest out of her,sent it 3 or 4 feet across the floor, I didn't want to chance removing the drain bolt in the block in case it sheered off,it's probably never been removed in the last 12 years.
Fil her on the side stand,run her then with the rad cap open to burp the system and remove any air pockets,I leaned her well over to the left towards me to make sure the coolant was to the top of the left rad.
then top up the expansion bottle to just below the max line.keep an eye on her then after the first few runs.

 

Hey the Great Sqirrelman and VFRIRL'

Yes, we have that problem here too....rape the land... Fracking freaking SUX.
Will stuff up underground water thats been pristine for 1000 years. . . .

thanks for tips on bike and fluid. . . still seems to be running cool. . .next step thermo-sensor?
or, bit of gaffer tape over radiators in the winter??

Enjoy your northern hemisphere Summer, while we are freezing our butts off down-under!

All mates together,

Geoff