The Great 86 Project Bike Questions

Unfortuately I do not have a service manual and the owners manual is useless crap.

I'm trying to get my 86 back together and running. It stared and ran ok a couple years ago before I dismantled the plastics and tank to repair body damage. Now I can't get it to crank and need to make sure that works before I start putting all the trimmmings back on the frame.

I'm trying to assertain the motor situation by rotating the crank but the clutch is mush and will not disengade when in gear so I can get it rolling in high gear for a pop test. The clutch fluid resevoir was low and I tried to bleed it out but can't seem to get any fluid pumped through it. What is the correct proceedure ???

Also anyone..From left to right what are the fuses on the dash for? Specifically the second from the left/center which is a 10 amp and is currently toasted.

Thanks
John

 

u have to get a pair of pliers and squeeze the clutch hose and just keep pumping after a few mins u will feel it build pressure (i) let a little through and the squeeze the pliers and start pumping
also make sure that your bleeder screw is undone about 1/8th turn.

 

not quite sure on the fuses. i would recommend pmn toecutter
he is the 86 guru imo

 

LOOK CLOSELY : the fuse circuits are identified by molding in the plastic.

 

Engine

Turn the engine over by hand first please.Just to be sure there is no problem before bumping it over, remove the plug on the clutch cover and turn it over.I think it is the fan fuse you are looking at.Check to see if it is contacting the radiator.

 

No use in push starting a bike that won't start. Unless you like pushing home a bike.
It could stall or quit on you when you are a mile or more away.

Best thing to do is check everything over FIRST then go for a test ride.
I would do like the others say, get the clutch bled first and remove the spark plugs if necessary and turn the engine over by hand.

Check out the starter by taking a jumper cable and putting the ground on the engine case and the positive right where the starter connection is ON THE STARTER ,(after you have turned it over by hand), and that will tell you if you have any starter issues.

If it has been sitting for a long time the idle jets could be gummed up too.
If you do not have any experience get help.
Otherwise the bike will end up in the back yard and once it is good and rusty and parts are scattered all around THEN it will go to the scrap yard.

Anyway good luck and I hope you get it running.
By the way the OWNERS MANUAL is NOT useless. IT has fluid cpacities and other info in it, and sometimes the photos can be helpful.
When you sell the bike the NEW owner always appreciates having the manual to get aquainted with the bike.

 

1986 750 VFR Project Bike Update

Thanks for the feedback. With only 13k on it this bike should have a lot of life left in it. True ..I was hard on the manual but not much help for this project. Pretty basic to at least tell you what fuse is what. Anyway here is an update. Manual bleeding the clutch line was a pain as I screwed arround for at least an hour or so on it. Sprung for a $20 bleeder tool @ harbor freight which I should have in the tool box anyway. Took 10 minutes to get the system bleed out. Should have had this tool for the last 20 bleed jobs!! The 10Amp fuse in question appears to be the starter fuse. Replaced the fuse and removed the spark plugs to eliminate compression resistance , sprayed in some foggin oil, hooked up to a fresh battery and seems to cranks ok. Going to pick up some new plugs tomorrow and install to see if it still cranks well under compression. Started reassembling the tank and body work. Tank had some corrosion starting inside so have it soaking in mineral spirts right now and will flush with gas before I hook it up, found MOST of the assembly fittings for the fairings but need to locate a couple unique ones and fab a couple side brackets past snapped off at the frame casting. I also have to build up one of the tabs on the front that restricts the handlebars from rotating too far and contacting the tank which was cracked when dropped previously. (Explains why I had to fix a major dent in the tank) I plan to do this with a coat of "All Metal" resin filler which hardens like rock. Starting to look like a bike again!!

 

FYI Bike matches the back bike in ToeCutter's avitar.

 

?? How do you get this system to send you e mail updates when someone posts a reply??

 

He's back.

So I got the plugs back in and the bike cranks like a champ. Next step is to get the fule tank back on. I only have a newer manual to reference and the tank and carbs do not look to be the same. I think there has been some emmisson control plumbing previously removed from this bike.

On the tank looking from below.. I have 3 hose connects. 1 is problaby a 1/4 -5/16 pipe and is for the main fule line located left side rear. Then there is a second 1/4 - 5/16 pipe located upper mid way on the right side..what is this for? I can't find a second hose to hook it up to. Then there is a third smaller 3/16 pipe on the far upper left underside. Again what is this for and I can't find a hose it was hooked up to either.

There are 4 carbs but I only checked the back two so far but both have a 3/16 hose coming off the base of each that are not connected to anything. I'm assuming these are disconnected emmission lines and may explain some surging we have experienced in performance previously . I'm also assuming at a minimum these lines should be plugged as again I see no where to connect them to.
I would appreciate any help I can get figuring this puzzle out!
Thanks all!!

 

Your bike won't run right if you plug those VENT lines...........!!

Don't assume; study the Honda service manual.

 

VERY VERY good to know!! (right now you guys ARE my service manual!!)

Thanks. Ever onward!

 

And yes..I did look closely (with my GLASSES and th elight on and the fuses are marked. It was the starter fuse...kind of explains why the starter would not crank!! Duh!! Pretty basic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!