Temperature indicating labels

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Maggot, Feb 17, 2014.

  1. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    I have a chance to acquire some temperature indicating labels from a company called Tempil. The product is called Tempilable. These labels are roughly 1/2" square. They have a white circle in the middle that turns black when a specific temperature is reached. Once they turn black they remain black even when the surface they are mounted to cools back down. The labels are thin stickers with adhesive backs. Peel off the label and stick it to whatever you want.

    Here's my idea. I would stick the labels to many of the electrical connectors on the VFR to monitor heat. The labels come in single temperatures about every 10 degrees from 100 F (38C) to 500F (260C). Above 300 degrees they go to 375, 400 and then 500 Degrees.

    My question is, what temperature should I use? I have to have the temperature high enough so the labels won't get triggered by the heat of the bike or being parked in the sun. I also want the temperature low enough to tell me there is a problem at that connector before the connector starts to melt or it is too late to fix a problem.

    Does anyone know at what temps the connectors start to melt? Does anybody have a good idea as to what temperature would indicate the "Start" of a problem before it was too late to do anything about it?

    As an example lets say the connectors normally run at 200 Degrees F and the connectors melt at 400 degrees F. Then I should use stickers at 300 degrees just to see the beginning of a problem.

    Please discuss and I will go with the temps that everyone agrees would be best!
     
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    How very scientific ! Some race cars use graduated temp sensor strips on brake calipers, radiators and oil coolers to extablish normal operating temps. :party2;

    Seems straighforward to experi-mentally establish the melting point of our plastic plugs if anyone wants to.................:glee: Seems like yer average toaster oven could test, assuming an accurate thermerstat. :nelson:

    On tha uva 'and, interesting might be lectrickal calcaltions showing how much max heat could be produced if any wire began carrying additional current load factoring in wire diameter up to the failure point. Advanced physics/math./EE formulae. If wires spark within the plug, rather than just gettin hot, temps could go way up.

    Since all seem camera-equipped 24/7, we need a Rogue's Gallery of melted and partly-melted plugs on its own thread here at VFRW. Adding my fave below.


    IMG_0898 jpg.JPG IMG_0901  jpg.JPG IMG_0899  jpg.JPG


    Most surprisingly it was STILL charging through that mess, but not for long.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
  4. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    Yes, they are fun and work great But I am looking for the ever vigilant monitor that tells me something is wrong when riding. When I pull the plastic it would be good to know where a problem is about to happen.
     
  5. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Use them both, IR unit is quick and great for checking your breaker panel at home for loose lugs and wiring (will get hot)
     
  6. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    i don't know what plastic is used for the connectors, but HDPE melts around 230F and can be extruded around 350 to 500F, not sure when it starts charring. All these temperatures are known for the different plastics.

    PVC is commonly used for wire insulation and has a maximum rating of 220F. Not sure when it chars but it is likely the first thing that burns. Labels with Dots at 250 to 300F would be good early-warning indicators of hot spots.
     
  7. Maggot

    Maggot New Member

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    I think we are on the right track here. I would like to have the dots change at higher than normal temperature so normal operation doesn't trigger them. I just have to figure out what a normal high temperature would be including parking in the sun. If PVC has a maximum rating of 220F and HDPE is 230F then maybe I should use 220F labels. I can get them at 10 degree increments in that range starting at 100F (Change on a hot day) to 300F.

    Sooo....should I go with 220 the highest rating of PVC or go higher because if it is rated at 220F you know it would be likely to take more than it's rating?

    Also these label are about a half inch square so I don't think they would work well on the wire itself. I'm pretty sure if I fold them around the connectors they would be in full contact with the heat source.

    KenBob so far I think your idea of 250 to 300F is about the best. I just want to make sure we find a spot that won't be triggered by normal heat and would turn color before there is actual damage to the connectors.

    Anybody else want to add their ideas. All are welcome!

    Just for reference, here are the actual temps I can get in F. ...200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250, 260, 270, 280, 290, 300, 375, 400, 500. The same labels are all marked in degrees C as well.
     
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