Synthetics & Shifting

If you have switched over to synthetic oil I'd like your input. My question: Is there any noticeable difference in the smoothness of shifting? Just wondering...I have been on "dry clutch " BMWs for 25 years and never used synthetics.

 

The big difference between synthetics and petroleum based oils are the number of polymers they have to put into petroleum oils. These polymers start breaking down immediately!
There is a characteristic of oil call sheering, where the molecules actual sheer under stress, synthetic rarely sheer. I read an article by a lubrication engineer with 30 years experience, he went 28,000 miles on one oil change (in a diesel truck engine)! He sends his oil samples to a lab to find out when to change! Lot of articles on Google about the differences.

 

I found Synthetic help smooth out the shifting.......Or maybe just my imagination :noidea:

 

Try "shear".

This is sheer:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51uMd6+UqDL._SY445_.jpg

Low mileage on those two . Thankee Jesus.

 

ound: nice one billy I will take two :thumb:

 

How do you know if there is low mileage on "them two" if you dont pop the hoods and check your "dip-stick?"

Too many wives tales on oil to join in on this here thread. My belief is, buy the best Walmart oil you can afford, and change it frequently. Nuff Sed. ; )

 

Badbilly, I like your sheer better!

 

Try this site for some of your questions. http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/motoroil.htm

 

Excellent site!

 

So the question might be is how many dudes here have blown an engine because of using the "wrong" oil ? How many dudes here have had seal failures when switching from dinosaur to synthetic oil?

No mention of clutch slippage on bikes using cork plates either. ..and how bout them Harleys or Ducatis or BMW's . How bout what to use in two-strokes?

How many of these "swear to God" chunks of information are from dudes selling brand A to brand X?

Me? I believe every fucking thing I read or see on the net.

Whoops, for those who showed interest, the chicas are in the mail..

 

I use BMW 10w-40 synthetic (Because I work for BMW and know what makes their oils better, and I get a discount) and the syn did help make the shifts a bit smoother. I never used synthetic in my 1989 K100RS due to its age and mileage it was just asking for a rear main leak that would kill the clutch, as I am sure you already know. I have included a link below that highlights the differences between a couple different brands of oils.

http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

 

What oil would you suggest I use in my 79 R100RS. Krauser 4 Valve heads, Luftmeister three paw clutch, chopped flywheel , static and dynamic balance, big coils, 40mm Mikuni flatslides, 2into1 Luftmeister pipes and some other frarkles that makes it fast, pretty and unreliable. Sharing your discount would be great too.

How come you don't list your beemers and what should I be using oilwise on my clutch cable?

 

From day one I have been using Motul Semi Synthetic just because someone told me it was better. That was 105K miles ago. I cannot say if it made any difference in the shifting cause when the bike was new, I was also a new rider. My shifting likely was kinda rough anyways at that time. I will use Motul again on my next oil change only because I have it. Then I am switching to a cheaper semi synthetic that I can use in my Diesel truck too. I have read several places, and have received advise from someone I have mega confidence in, that I can use the same oil in my diesel truck as I use in my bike so long as there are no friction reducers in the oil. Seems to me, Rotella is the cheaper oil out there. After all, I am on fixed income now...still. And those fuckers in Ottawa refuse to index my pension because they want that money to bolster their gold plated pensions.

 

I love Amsoil. First oil company to get an API approval for a synthetic in 1972. Much written on their motorcycle oils. Check out www.amsoil.com

Go to the type of oil you like and click on "Data Sheet".

 

My kinda goil.

http://sixpacktech.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Olive-Oyl.jpg

 

For a definitive dissertation on synthetic lubricants for types of vehicles, download and save "Motor Oils and Engine Lubrication" By Dave Mann

http://orangeroads.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/motor-oil-engineers.pdf

Great Bonus Section too, on brake disks: "....that first of all is that brake rotors do not warp.
The second problem is that replacing a brake rotor with a new brake rotor or machining the rotor on a bench lathe will only fix the problem temporary. The problem will almost always re-occur after a period of time, thus necessitating further repairs."

 

Badbilly,
Any motor oil will work on the old beemers. Just make sure the weight is correct.

 

You may be right but I wouldn't print that on a Tshirt and wear it to a Beemer Rallye.

With all this years of information on oil I may just buy them all and mix them by the CC until I have enough for my next oil change. I figure what I would have left over if I followed all that advice would amount to about three 55 gallon drums full.

 

My Mach 1 aka black bike (wife learned that official colour was "granite blue-but commented that it looks black.) one of those things, if you have to explain, then its not worth it. Told her, you have to see it in the sun light...

Kind of a rambling but imho worth it ; )

Only Amsoil in it/her...Would love to have a split bumper camaro one day or a ford MACH 1 :thumbsup: hope the sea-hawks win today.

 

You only think she's rambling...

I'd settle for a Ferrari or the ultimate in your dreams car a Mercedes-Benz W125.