synch then idle drop or vice versa?

Not sure of the order . . .

 

They both go hand in hand.
You have to adjust idle, check synch, then do it again.
Synch setting is dependent on proper idle speed for your model.
5th gen is 1100~1200. California model I believe is higher.
Bike tachometer is not very accurate at low rpm.
Good luck.

 

That was my understanding, but when I looked up pilot screw adjustment in the HSM and it says to make sure the carb synchronization is within spec before doing pilot screws.

 

It depends how far off they might be. You could eyeball a throttle synch and get any bike to run, but a bench synch with drill bits can dial it right in. You can start at 2-1/2 turns on the pilots and get any bike to run, but you will have to do the idle drop to get it dialed in.

1. A good bench synch can be as good or better than an adjustment with the vacuum sticks.

2. The pilot screw adjustment is made at idle speed with the throttle closed.

3. A vacuum synch can be done at any speed and throttle position as determined by the master reference carb (the one connected to the idle thumb knob). The more it is screwed in, the higher the engine speed and the lower the overall vacuum reading. To do it at closed throttle requires a very stable idle with the pilot circuit already adjusted for mixture.

 

Thanks guys. I'll hopefully be able to get to this in the next few days. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

Important on any synch job to snap the throttle 2 or 3 times after adjusting any screw to allow linkages and throttle plates to settle firmly into a new positiion.

 

Got it. Thanks Squirrel