I got a used vfr with a crookedly installed tank protector and when it came time to replace it I found out that one of the flaps on the tank protector must have lifted up ,so the previous owner brilliantly used superglue to stick it back down.Now I got an area about an inch and a half square that has left over superglue on my otherwise perfect gas tank.@###$#@$% I know this is a long shot but does anyone have a magical way of removing superglue from a painted surface?(I can't believe some one would do something so retarded) Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Id try something like Zippo fluid to start. I wouldnt use anything too harsh otherwise it might totally fuck up the paint.
here is a guide that may help Removing Super Glue | Super Glue Corporation CA glue (aka superglue) really doesn't like water... a paint scraper (gentle) and water may be an easy fix... acetone is a step up (test on paint on unseen portion of tank below seat to make sure it wont take up the paint
Lighter fluid is naptha. Very close chemically to paint thinner (mineral spirits). It wont harm a Honda factory painted tank. The clearcoat on the tanks is formulated to resist fuel spills and sloppy fills. IMO the naptha won't do much good. Acetone is iffy. It will debond "superglue" but is one of the fractions in paint stripper. Paint scraper? Good Lord! That' s like fixing a Rolex with a crowbar and a framing hammer. Maybe one of those plastic putty knives from Homers or a Bondo spreader used with gentle heat. Not a fricken cutting torch either. Think hair dryer. With "be careful" as the watchword, some fine rubbing compound and a random orbital buffer with a sheepskin bonnet,
When I took the warning stickers off my tank, I uses "Goo Gone" which is a xylene based solvent. Worked pretty well. The big pieces I scraped off with the plastic end of a metal nail file. Plastic should be fine to scrape with; combined with a mild solvent it should all come off fine. Don't forget a good coat or two of wax afterwards!
Adhesive stickers and graphics can be removed with gentle heat. Heat a corner with a hairdryer. Gently pull and waft the heat source in the direction being pulled. Done carefully most of the solvent type adhesive will come off. Any that is left is soluble in regular paint thinnner, Stoddard solvent, VM&P naptha, or even lighter fluid or barbeque starter juice. Superglue is a whole nother can of worms. Any metal tools used on a bike paint job that isn't toast is flirting with the devil.
I like the goo gone approach/ it seems to work well you can also go to the superglue web site they might have some hints on removal (nail polish remover)
Be careful with the Cutex stuff it has Acetone in it. That will start to remove the clear coat. Ingredients: Acetone, Water, Propylene Carbonate, Dimethyl Glutarate, Dimethyl Succinate, Dimethyl Adipate, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Gelatin, Fragrance, Citric Acid, Denatonium Benzoate. Warnings: Extremely flammable. Pads and vapors may ignite. Do not use when smoking. Do not use, store or discard near fire, flame or heat. Keep out of eyes. In case of eye contact immediately flush eyes with water, remove any contact lenses and continue to flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Contact a physician. Can be harmful to synthetic fabrics, wood finishes, plastics and painted surfaces. Keep out of reach of children
There are several Cutex nailpolish removers on the market. Most contain a fraction of acetone. Clearcoats are polyeurethanes and acetone will degrade same. If the clearcoat is breached the acetone then degrades the paint and primer. Any form of acetone diluted even with water (acetone and water are miscible) used on a tank is not a great idea when guessing might cost somebody a paintjob on tank that could be upward of 200-250 bucks depending on the DIY damage. Be back with an answer from the main dudes at superglue and we will see what the pro's have to say..
Super Glue is cyanoacylate. I have been building and flying radio contolled airplanes for years and this is the glue that is used. There is a chemical available to get this glue off of your fingers, etc. I suggest you go to a hobby shop that sells the glue for model airplanes and ask for the right stuff to dissolve it. Good Luck!
This should link to several different types of 3M rubbing and polishing compounds and the MSDS sheets for same for those who need them. Generally the cutting and polishing action is determined by the grit of the compound, the application method and the skill of the applicator. For some instruction and getting a look at how it's done, check out a really good paint shop or a high end detail shop.
Well I went to lowes and home depot and got some goof off and goo gone and some wd 40.I started out with the wd 40 and some elbow grease then went to goo gone and finally the goof off stuff.I was using my thumb nail to scrape at it but that shit was on there, so I went with a plastic piece I had laying around and it started to work.Then it slipped and dug a nice chunk out of the clear coat, which in turn allowed the goof off to get at the paint and POOF,I was fucked! Thanks for all the responses, I had a feeling this was how it would end up being how thick the stuff was on there. I got to do a little touch up paint and hit the local MC shops to find a slightly bigger tank pad and all should be good.
