Suggestions on which oiling mod to go with?

After reading, there seems about a million different versions of the oiling kits out there.

I would prefer to do it myself and keep the cost down. I'm no newb to plumping up oil lines and what not.

Anyhow, I just picked up a 82 v45 magna, and I figure I figure I will probably ride it for a while before selling her.

Right now I'm thinking I will try the Tony Donisi version of the mod which has a little drill n tap and larger fittings. I may change it up a bit and use some stainless hard lines and some swagelok fittings though as I have some laying around .

Anyhow, I''m open to other mods also, so feel free to share your input. I'm assuming the oiling on the interceptor and the magna are quite similar to the same.

 

I've been looking into the holeshot mod. it just screws onto the existing oil filter and it has 2 lines that run up... cost is there, i think $280, but from what i've read and in talking with a few people its pretty nice.

 

Dave dodge and dave dodge mod ONLY all others tend to starve the bottom end. Go to www.v4hondabbs.com for more info.

Here is one available from classic cycle.

Seriously if you go with another you will put your engine at a serious risk.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...004QQitemZ140149834567QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

how is the holeshot system starving the bottom end ???? it takes the oil right after the filter to the cams. no drilling, no tapping.... no metal shavings...

 

It is all about the amount of oil it diverts to the top end. The Dave Dodge oil mod has metered lines to make sure the bottom end does not suffer. BTW the V45 magna is a great bike I have an 82 as well. And after doing a lot of research I added a DD oil mod kit.

 

i looked at the dd oil mod, looks exactly same as the holeshot mod.

 

It is all in the lines and how much oil they allow to get to the head.

 

I went with the top end oiling kit by Mark Douglas. It's well built and a very high quality product. I installed it on my 500 over 4 years ago and have had zero problems with it.

 

I went with the drill and tap method when I got my bike at 20km. It now has over 100km (street and track miles) and the last time I opened the cases the crank and rod bearings looked great. That was long before there were kits available and I only saw pics of the racebikes that ran the same thing.

 

My stunter looks like it has the drill and tap style mod done to it as well...not entirely sure on it though given that engine has lost compression in the front two cyls...

 

I just picked up a 1985 VF1000R with a rod through the cases. Nice bike. Has a drill and tap oil mod. I have not delved into the bike to look for the cause, however, the external diameter of the lines look larger than what I have installed on my Mutant VF1000R.

I need to investigate further, ie; measure the internal diameter of the lines to see if they are indeed larger than what they should be.

I can`t speculate other than to say I don`t see a rod coming through the cases unless the bottom end was starved of oil.

I will post the post-mortem here.

 

Dave Dodge also makes a drill and tap method of OIL mod KIT

 

I`m familiar with his oil mods. Dave does excellent work, makes great stuff and is a very good resource regarding V4 Honda`s.

Regarding the 1985 VF1000R I just got that threw a connecting rod:
This is _not_ one of his oil mods.

I don`t know yet if this oil mod had anything to do with the failure.

That being said, I have one(drill and tap) that I made up myself on my 1986 Mutant VF1000R and I have no troubles.

 

ok the Drill and tap..thats drilling out a boss on the underside of the engine block right? just want to confirm that thought...because the stunter has a braided line going from the tops of the heads to the bottom of the engine..

 

Yes,
You should have one line from the bottom of the crankcase on the right side of the motor that splits into two lines with one going to each head.

 

Below is a pic of the difference between the drill and tap oil mod diameter I found on the 1985 VF1000R I just bought with a rod through the cases(top hose in picture) and the correct diameter hose(bottom hose in picture).
I am holding a -4 Earls teflon/braided stainless hose and fitting for comparison(bottom hose in picture). The -4 is the correct diameter to use for the main line from the main oil gallery _before_ it splits into 2 lines, one to each head. Dave Dodge drill and tap oil mods then use a splitter to run two -3 lines, one to each head.

_This_ oil mod on _this_ bike uses the larger diameter(top hose in pic) for _all_ lines. I don`t even know what size the internal diameter is, but judging from the comparison, it appears larger than -4.


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.....and here is what I believe to be the result of using too large oil lines:


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Nice, eh? Notice how the starter ripped it`s mount points off, not to mention the gaping hole. You can`t see it in this pic, but one of the crank weights is severely scarred from all the metal trying to escape, and escape it did...when I got the bike there were chunks of connecting rod lying beneath the bike on the truck, can`t wait to see what it looks like inside....

The thing that bothers me is the previous owner paid someone for this oil mod...and the bike only has 15,000 miles on it. Good for me, devastating for the previous owner.

 

OUCH!!!!...and yea my stunter has the single splitting into a Y...Now im not sure how to tell what sizes of hoses were used...

 

OK, before I start a panic, I just want to reiterate that this is all speculation at this point.

This also could have been caused by low oil level, a marginal oil pump, a bearing already in poor condition then barely adequate oil supply, etc.

I have no idea for sure yet, but maybe something was goofed on the install.

I will say that I personally will not use anything with an internal diameter larger than a -4, and I researched this pretty good a number of years ago including the originators of the oil mod and the info that American Honda used for the VF750F race bikes in the early 80`s.

 

My '85 also threw the same rod through the case, it didn't have an oil mod, just the original hard lines.

 

I like the sandwiched plate at the oil filter with the -4 AN lines. It appears to work well and I have no complaints. If it were starved for oil I would certainly know it by now.

Mark