stripped screw on brake reservoir

I've got a 4th gen that I love, I've had it for a few years now.
Today I decided I'd add some brake fluid but before I even noticed screw started stripping. I tried a few different types of bits but no matter the shape it wont budge.

Whats the easiest way to combat this? If it wasn't recessed I could create some groves using a hacksaw, but as it stands on low on ideas. I've never drilled out a stripped screw so I'm not sure what's involved or what tools to use.

Thanks!

 

There is a tool that is called an easy out ( screw extractor ). I never used it on a bike, but thats what we used on cars when I was an automechanic. Basiclly it will drill into the stripped screw and then when you unscrew it, it will take the screw out with it. And of course, you will have to replace the screw, as well as be carefull not to get any of the mess into your reservoir ( the metal shavings ).

Your local kragen, autozone or equivalent should carry something like this.

I hope maybe one of the more experianced bike wrenches on here have an eaiser solution for ya.

 

+1 easyout, however. When removing broken fasteners, with an easyout, you first need to drill a pilot hole in said fastner so that you can jam the tool in it. Most people don't think about this and just use a regular drill bit to do the job. If you can get a "left handed" drill bit to do the job it may be all you need, frequently (especially with smaller fastners like this one) the screw will back itself out while you're drilling the pilot hole with a left handed bit. Where, conversley, with a normal or "right handed bit" you may actually further tighten the fastner making your extraction job harder.

 

u could use a dremmel with a tiny cutting wheel to do the same..

 

I think the dremel would cause problems here as the screw is recessed. if you can get a dremel with some kind really small cutter then you could either cut a slot in it for a flathead screwdriver or possible grind the whole head of the screw off. with the head of it ground off you should just be able to remove the other screw and the cap will slide off. you could then use some pliers or vice grips on the shank of the screw to unscrew it.

I would give the easy out a shot FIRST... and it that doesn't work then move on to the dremel.

 

++1 on the easy out....go to any auto parts dealer and ask for an easyout... they will know...if you can bring the other screw, they will help you and plus they can guide you to getting a new screw for the cap..

 

Sears sells this and it works perfect. They are used just like drill bits only in reverse. I hope this helps.

 

What is Mr.Sears calling these puppies? They look like something that would be a great addition to anyone's toolbox.


EZOut or other type bit on a small phillips screw like that IMO the whole assembly should be removed from the bike and the screw removed with the bit on a drill press.

 

I hope you've learned a valuable lesson here: make sure you have the right type and right sized screwdriver.

 

Thanks for all the replies, when I get time I'll head over to sears and pick up a drill and some easy out option. On the website they also have GRABIT and their version of grabit "Deck-Out Screw and Bolt Removers".
Since they have several kits for this, I'll have to bring in the non-stripped screw for reference and see which bit is going to be the best size.
If that doesn't work, I'll have to buy a dremel and remove the edges of the screw head and pull the lid off. I'll leave this as a last resort.

Thanks again for all the info, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Going by the pic, your bike is put away in a dry environment. The cover screws for the clutch and brake resevoirs are coated and are not all that hard. ie easy to strip if corrosions has set in. There is still "wiggle room" for water to get into the screw holes. It might be a good idea to just dump the OEM screws for stainless when your extraction is finished.

Also, maybe check the maintenance suggestions for your particular bike and see if the hydraulic fluids in both systems need replacing.

 

That screw is really to small for an easy out or that Sears thing. Most likely it will act like a normal drill. Several choices. Loctite has a product called "Freeze & Release". It freezes stuck bolts/screws to -45 degrees which cracks the threads loose on rusted or stuck fasteners. Your best bet is to shock the threads. Take a steel, in your case, Phillips head bit, put it in the screw and rap quickly with a hammer. This will shock the threads, break the surface tension. Then the bit might be able to be used because it will embed into the screw some what so you can back it out. Also using a sharp pointed center punch on the flat surface of the screw, angle it in the direct to unscreww also works good.

 

If there was no chance of breaking the metal reservior then an impact driver would do a better job IMO. Crack that resevior if its full of fluid and there goes paint, plastic, rubber and coating on the hydraulic lines. Whacking on the assembly in situ could also bust the little dentent fixture on the front brake throttle side of the bars.

That Loctite is just canned air. Likely CO2. Canned air for freezing stuff is Boyles Law and a demo of the laws of thermodynamics and just giving the can a shake and turning it upside down. Another solution to the freezing is to buy a half liter of LN2.

 

By looking at the pix, is a Robertson Screw driver an option. I have used that in the past to deal with those freeking phiillips screws. Just makes sure that if you do try a Robertson, you use one that is tight. Otherwise you are likely to make thigs worse.

 

Allthough I do like, and tend to lean toward stainless hardware as a replacement for everything, it won't help that much in this situation. You're all thinking "But it's stainless, so, it dosen't rust?!?!?!" This is correct, to a point, there are many different grades and varietys of "stainless steel" No all are as resistant to corrosion as others. However, in this situation, you are still working with TWO DIS-SIMILAR METALS. The master cylinder is aluminum (I belive), the fasteners are not. Anybody care to tell me how a battery works??? Dis-similar metals stacked every other with fluid in between, water. Yes batteries have acids, electrolyte, etc. mixed in with the water, this is to make it more efficient in producing electricity. So, if anyone has followed my ramblings to this point, here's the point: Yes, try to get stainless fasteners to replace the ones that are in there, but, coat the threads with a thin layer of moly grease so as to keep moisture from collecting in between the threads. Coating threads with ANYTHING (grease, loctite, snow, etc.) allong with using a fastener of a different metal from stock WILL change the way that the fastener reaches it's torque spec. Not trying to preach or call anyone stupid, just tryin to help.

 

Using an easy-out wiould be a be a tremendously delicate operation. You would have to use one with a very small diameter, and if the screw is stuck hard you have as much chance of breaking off the easy-out and leaving a piece of hardened metal in the broken screw that will render removal impossible. Hello Brand New Resevoir!

So, first Be Patient!

Spray the thing liberally with penetrating oil every few hours for a couple of days and let it sit. Tapping the head of the screw with a screwdriver and light hammer or impact screwdriver will help free up the shank, but be gentle. As mentioned, you do not want to fracture the cylinder. Heat the area around the screw with a hair dryer or, if you are very, very, very careful, a heat gun. As previously mentioned, Dremel a slot in the screw if you have enough room, and remove. If that doesn't work dremel off the head of the screw and go the vice grips route.

Good Luck.

 

Good stuff! Any operation of this type should be IMO, done if possible with the assembly off the bike.

I'm a bit confused since the patent for the Robertson screw and driver was granted in 09.

 

Just try a square drive bit and see if you can get it to move,
Tap it with a punch and small hammer first a couple times - NOT a plastic handle though.
Must be a steel drift or flat punch. Then try to loosen the screw.

 

First off a #2 phillips will always strip those screw heads it is a jap head and you need a specail driver.
I will look up the exact name and markings to post up. I think it is JNP 2
best bet is to carefully drill off the head and the rest can be remove w/ a small pair of vise grips once the cover is off.
another option is a #1 square drive as mentioned above and taped lightly to get some purchase into the striped head.

 

Craftsman 4 pc. Drill-Out Power Extractor


Sold by Sears | Sears Item# 00952155000 | Model# 450SR

I had to do this a couple of time on the 1gen bike and never had any issues of being to0 big or too small. To each their own I guess.